P38 Monkey
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Thanks for the info - interesting. Engineering in the 90's - bonkers!
I suppose my view is coloured by the fact that the motors in both front latches were burnt out when I got my P38...
P38A Drivers door latch
- Thread starter stemac33
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I suppose my view is coloured by the fact that the motors in both front latches were burnt out when I got my P38...
P38 Monkey
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Do try to get a photo of that onto this thread - always good to learn about the foibles of our P38's.
In retrospect, if you had known what was causing the problem, could you have retrieved or dislodged that broken bit, so you could open the door?
stemac33
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No way of getting at it insitu. The piece was at the striker plate entry point into the lock and the door wouldn't open far enough. When the site will allow I will get the pics up.
P38 Monkey
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To save you getting a complete new latch, I have a pair of latches that I keep in case I need spares. Happy to pop the relevant bit in the post to you, if you could identify it.
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Datatek
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Are you sure the motors are 5 volts because they are certainly not operated by a "very short pulse" as you put it. As you can see form the photo's, the main motor drives a gear mechanism.
Datatek
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If you think 90's engineering was bonkers, take a look at the L322 electronics
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The are 12V motors, but definitely get too hot even when testing them outside the latch. I suspect they are designed to use a short burst of 12V, just enough to spin the gears.
Datatek
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I will test one tomorrow, I suspect that they are actually 9 volt so they will overheat and burn if they run too long.
stemac33
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Thanks for the offer but it was the other side under the metal plate that covers the latch I got the offending bit of plastic out by levering the plate up. It's only a press fit.
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Pretty sure when I looked them up years ago they were rated at 5V..I put it on a thread somewhere. I was looking at replacement motors but the only ones I could find had shafts that were way too long.
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Maybe there's different motors in the various latches ? Mabuchi FC-280PD-20150 is the part number on mine, and that comes up as 12V.
I got some identical motors from China that fit the latches & contacts are in the correct positions. So far failed to swap the white plastic spinner over. Top one is a failed P38 motor, but plastic part broke whe nI tried to pull it off.
I got some identical motors from China that fit the latches & contacts are in the correct positions. So far failed to swap the white plastic spinner over. Top one is a failed P38 motor, but plastic part broke whe nI tried to pull it off.
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Datatek
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Well, the motors in mine are certainly not 5volt, they are either 9 or 12 volt, hard to determine which, but run on 12volts the motor does not overheat unless under load so I would guess they are 12 volt.
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Yes, I seem to recall getting the plastic bits off was impossible without destroying them although I recall soneone saying they had managed it. Maybe they used a heat gun? Or heated the shaft somehow?
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Only just got this have been very busy with my old mum being very ill.With the door ajar and the rear door open can you see/get to the screws that hold the lock, maybe if you got them out there would be enough movement in the latch to release it?
Maybe @Rubberknees has 1 on his kitchen table ( I think cos post history don’t work either atm
Sorry out of ideas
J
Looks like others have provided what is needed. I was fortunate mine froze when door was open so was a simple job to take off and replace.
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Thanks my friend but took a turn for the worse last night. Doctor phoned from hospital today and we had to agree on Do Not Resuscitate to be placed on her. Just what I needed Christmas day but it is for the best
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Feeling for you we had last two years with dad in & out of hospital due to strokes & dementia. Not great. Was very sad but some relief when he passed few months ago.
it’s always difficult but does get easier. Stay strong mate.
it’s always difficult but does get easier. Stay strong mate.
brianp38dse
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Sorry to here this thoughts are with you.
stemac33
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^+1
