P38A Driver`s door will not open and windows will not open

Grrrrrr · Sep 9, 2022

Rover9676 said:
Flossie I sent an email about 1:00pm UK time but have not got a reply. Really don't want to make a $40.00 call for 1 minute.

If you have a smart-phone then if you install Signal you get secure messaging over wifi / data but also encrypted calling over wifi / data at no cost and often better quality call than with normal mobile reception. Obviously both you and the other caller both need the software installed.

https://signal.org/install

Rover9676 · Sep 9, 2022

Grrrrrr said:
If the part number was different it would probably have required some fettling. The plugs can be different. The motors and possibly the mechanism inside would probably be the same but it seems a shame butchering a brand new part. I would have done what you have. Data will know which microswitches are required. Yours should just pull out with no soldering required.

Thanks to all of the Forum members for the feedback on this Thread.

Datatek · Sep 10, 2022

Grrrrrr said:
If the part number was different it would probably have required some fettling. The plugs can be different. The motors and possibly the mechanism inside would probably be the same but it seems a shame butchering a brand new part. I would have done what you have. Data will know which microswitches are required. Yours should just pull out with no soldering required.

Changing the micro switches is no 5 minute job and soldering is required to fit new ones.

Rover9676 · Sep 10, 2022

Datatek said:
Changing the micro switches is no 5 minute job and soldering is required to fit new ones.

Good afternoon, Data, if the latch and connectors are the same, I just plug it in, correct?
When/Why would you have to change or solder switches?
I was referring to practicing my soldering for the Switch Pack.

Datatek · Sep 10, 2022

Rover9676 said:
Good afternoon, Data, if the latch and connectors are the same, I just plug it in, correct?
When/Why would you have to change or solder switches?
I was referring to practicing my soldering for the Switch Pack.

Yes, if the connectors are the same it's plug and play.
The micro switches in the door lock fail, soldering is involved when changing them, not relevant to what you are doing.
Why do you need to solder on the switch pack? Swapping that out is also plug and play.

Grrrrrr · Sep 10, 2022

Datatek said:
Changing the micro switches is no 5 minute job and soldering is required to fit new ones.

Not on my '95 lock actuator it isn't. Once out it all just clips in and out.

The switch pack is different. That's all soldered in and covered in that lacquer stuff

Rover9676 · Sep 10, 2022

Datatek said:
Yes, if the connectors are the same it's plug and play.
The micro switches in the door lock fail, soldering is involved when changing them, not relevant to what you are doing.
Why do you need to solder on the switch pack? Swapping that out is also plug and play.

I thought about working on the one that doesn't work. Removing the blobs holding the buttons, cleaning the area and soldering if needed.

Datatek · Sep 11, 2022

Grrrrrr said:
Not on my '95 lock actuator it isn't. Once out it all just clips in and out.

The switch pack is different. That's all soldered in and covered in that lacquer stuff

That's if you replace the micro switch block with like for like. Like Marty, I replace the block of micro switches with 3 individual micro switches to which the wires have to be soldered. Apart from the connectors, the lock assembly from my 95 is the same as the lock assembly from my 99 & 00 except one is LHD and the other is RHD.

Rover9676 · Sep 11, 2022

Datatek said:
That's if you replace the micro switch block with like for like. Like Marty, I replace the block of micro switches with 3 individual micro switches to which the wires have to be soldered. Apart from the connectors, the lock assembly from my 95 is the same as the lock assembly from my 99 & 00 except one is LHD and the other is RHD.

That makes sense! Now I just have remember all this new stuff.

Rover9676 · Sep 24, 2022

Datatek said:
That's if you replace the micro switch block with like for like. Like Marty, I replace the block of micro switches with 3 individual micro switches to which the wires have to be soldered. Apart from the connectors, the lock assembly from my 95 is the same as the lock assembly from my 99 & 00 except one is LHD and the other is RHD.

Good afternoon, I just received my package from cn4x4ss. I believe they sent the wrong part by mistake. The wires and plugs are the same but, m8ne has the harness coming out of the latch and the one shipped has the plug attached to the latch. Not sure of the difference, if any. All insight is helpful. Pic attached
Jesse

Rover9676 · Sep 24, 2022

Grrrrrr said:
Not on my '95 lock actuator it isn't. Once out it all just clips in and out.

The switch pack is different. That's all soldered in and covered in that lacquer stuff

ood afternoon, I just received my package from cn4x4ss. I believe they sent the wrong part by mistake. The wires and plugs are the same but, m8ne has the harness coming out of the latch and the one shipped has the plug attached to the latch. Not sure of the difference, if any. All insight is helpful. Pic attached
Jesse

pwood999 · Sep 24, 2022

Different generation latches, but both should work. I suspect one of them is an MGF latch. Looks like both have the 6-way plus ground plug,

Before installing, with door open connect the latch to the door outstation. Close the latch using a screwdriver (as if it were in the door), which makes the car think the door is closed !! Then try operating the latch both manually & using the fob.

Once you get it into the door, keep window open just in case, and see if you can lock & unlock the car with fob first. Then try once with key. Also check dash shows Door-Open message as expected.

Rover9676 · Sep 24, 2022

pwood999 said:
Different generation latches, but both should work. I suspect one of them is an MGF latch. Looks like both have the 6-way plus ground plug,

Before installing, with door open connect the latch to the door outstation. Close the latch using a screwdriver (as if it were in the door), which makes the car think the door is closed !! Then try operating the latch both manually & using the fob.

Once you get it into the door, keep window open just in case, and see if you can lock & unlock the car with fob first. Then try once with key. Also check dash shows Door-Open message as expected.

Hello, thanks for the quick reply. I just noticed my plug has a White Wire and the latch I received does not, but it does have 5 wires on one plug and the single black wire on the small plug. Do you still think it will work?

Rover9676 · Sep 24, 2022

Datatek said:
Yes, if the connectors are the same it's plug and play.
The micro switches in the door lock fail, soldering is involved when changing them, not relevant to what you are doing.
Why do you need to solder on the switch pack? Swapping that out is also plug and play.

Hello Data, just plugged in switch pack and all is good!!

Grrrrrr · Sep 24, 2022

It must be ten years since I had mine out and I cannot recall what they looked like now. I know the MGF one I got looked different with different plug bit I just took it apart and swapped over the notors and maybe a microswitch in order to make mine work - the components inside were the same.

As Paul says, give it a go and see what happens. Just don't supply solid power to the motors or you'll burn them out. They're 5V motors driven by 12V using a pulse that sends them spinning like crazy. Very easy to burn them out.

Rover9676 · Sep 24, 2022

Grrrrrr said:
It must be ten years since I had mine out and I cannot recall what they looked like now. I know the MGF one I got looked different with different plug bit I just took it apart and swapped over the notors and maybe a microswitch in order to make mine work - the components inside were the same.

As Paul says, give it a go and see what happens. Just don't supply solid power to the motors or you'll burn them out. They're 5V motors driven by 12V using a pulse that sends them spinning like crazy. Very easy to burn them out.

A closer look at both side by side and I see the differences: mine is on the right with the rod in the linkage which is missing on the replacement latch. Wiring is also different. Mine has a White wire in the large plug the replacement does not. Also the replacement doest have the linkage attached underneath the red clip. When I plugged the replacement in, I realized it doesn't have the key linkage where the rod on mine goes. Which is probably why the alarm went-off when I pressed the key fob. Maybe I can return it for the correct one. Not sure how long that will take.

Rover9676 · Sep 24, 2022

Rover9676 said:
Hello, thanks for the quick reply. I just noticed my plug has a White Wire and the latch I received does not, but it does have 5 wires on one plug and the single black wire on the small plug. Do you still think it will work?

A thorough look shows the replacement has Only 3 wires coming out of the large plug, the other 3 plus the black ground are go through an opening to the inside.
A closer look at both side by side and I see the differences: mine is on the right with the rod in the linkage which is missing on the replacement latch. Wiring is also different. Mine has a White wire in the large plug the replacement does not. Also the replacement doest have the linkage attached underneath the red clip. When I plugged the replacement in, I realized it doesn't have the key linkage where the rod on mine goes. Which is probably why the alarm went-off when I pressed the key fob. Maybe I can return it for the correct one. Not sure how long that will take.

Datatek · Sep 25, 2022

Rover9676 said:
A thorough look shows the replacement has Only 3 wires coming out of the large plug, the other 3 plus the black ground are go through an opening to the inside.
A closer look at both side by side and I see the differences: mine is on the right with the rod in the linkage which is missing on the replacement latch. Wiring is also different. Mine has a White wire in the large plug the replacement does not. Also the replacement doest have the linkage attached underneath the red clip. When I plugged the replacement in, I realized it doesn't have the key linkage where the rod on mine goes. Which is probably why the alarm went-off when I pressed the key fob. Maybe I can return it for the correct one. Not sure how long that will take.

If you cannot send it back, you can probably use parts from the replacement latch to fix yours

Datatek · Sep 25, 2022

Rover9676 said:
Hello Data, just plugged in switch pack and all is good!!

At least that is one bit of good news.

pwood999 · Sep 25, 2022

Just undo the small crosshead screws on the plate holding the levers in place. Then swap the external bits over. Internals will probably be the same if they both have three microswitches, so go through the Latch Test posted earlier in this thread.

Re-assembly can be a bit fiddly the first time, but it's fairly easy once you know where all the bits go.

P38A Driver`s door will not open and windows will not open

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