Drive train strength

I've heard some different stories about the strength of the drivetrain on the defender.

Basically I want to play around with the engine and look to get a little over 200bhp on a standard 90 Defender 1987.

I have heard some reports that the drivetrain is only good for about 180bhp, particularly the differentials, but was reading over the weekend in LRM that what seemed to be a standard set up had been fitted with nitros that was giving about 270bhp. From what I've heard this should rip the drivetrain to bits.

Any thoughts - or are there as many thoughts as there are answers??

Thanks guys,

Jon

Why?

Anyone that boosts the power output, without taking into account suspension and brakes, is a danger to themselves, and others, in my books.

The Mad Hat Man said:

Why?

Anyone that boosts the power output, without taking into account suspension and brakes, is a danger to themselves, and others, in my books.

Click to expand...

Yikes...I'm gonna take that K&N off.

I totally agree - I'm undertaking a full chassis up rebuild so all will be taken into account.

Any ideas on drivetrain strength?

It isn't POWER that breaks things in the drive train - it is TORQUE, especially when it is applied suddenly - like with a big jerk, which usually also describes the clot that did it.

The ideal way to break LandRover drive-train is in low range, first gear, a very heavy load on the end of a rope, and about 4,000 reve with full throttle.

On the other hand you could have a 250 bhp engine running flat out in top gear and drive from here to Hell and back without a problem.

CharlesY

more often than not its the JERK behind the wheel that damages the drivetrain

Yup - apologies for my sloppy use of English - I know that its torque that really matters.

Perhaps a little background might help - just finished building a cobra (21st Century Cobra! sounds-legal.com present 'The Beast') with a 6.4l stroked and race tuned Ford 351 Windsor. One of my regrets is that I didn't build the engine and haven't had a huge amount of experience inside engines. Always been a fan as is SWMBO of Landrovers (father has used them in his business since I was knee high to a grasshopper) and rebuilt the chassis on a series 3, 3.0 straight 6 when I was 17.

So it seemed the ideal combination - 90 Defender with a 3.5 RV8 donor. I'm going to do a ground up restoration potentialy with a 2" lift but I know that will depend on engine power. All brakes will be upgraded probably to EBC bits. I want to rebuild the engine as part of the project and therefore will have a play with things like porting the heads, reducing the comp ratio a little, performer inlet manifold and probably a 500cfm carb (not had four days to sit in front of a computer yet to understand cams!).

Not planning on doing serious off roading but want to do a bit of green laning around the countryside. Consequently I don't want to build something that is just going to eat the drive train. Not planning on dumping the clutch at 4000 rpm whilst attached to something heavy / immovable (although might do if at the lights next to a chav!!)

Does that help with the question / answer?

Ta

Yup - apologies for my sloppy use of English - I know that its torque that really matters.

Perhaps a little background might help - just finished building a cobra (21st Century Cobra! sounds-legal.com present 'The Beast') with a 6.4l stroked and race tuned Ford 351 Windsor. One of my regrets is that I didn't build the engine and haven't had a huge amount of experience inside engines. Always been a fan as is SWMBO of Landrovers (father has used them in his business since I was knee high to a grasshopper) and rebuilt the chassis on a series 3, 3.0 straight 6 when I was 17.

So it seemed the ideal combination - 90 Defender with a 3.5 RV8 donor. I'm going to do a ground up restoration potentialy with a 2" lift but I know that will depend on engine power. All brakes will be upgraded probably to EBC bits. I want to rebuild the engine as part of the project and therefore will have a play with things like porting the heads, reducing the comp ratio a little, performer inlet manifold and probably a 500cfm carb (not had four days to sit in front of a computer yet to understand cams!).

Not planning on doing serious off roading but want to do a bit of green laning around the countryside. Consequently I don't want to build something that is just going to eat the drive train. Not planning on dumping the clutch at 4000 rpm whilst attached to something heavy / immovable (although might do if at the lights next to a chav!!)

Does that help with the question / answer?

Ta

Sorry - no idea why that appears twice!