Drilling a 36mm hole!

[JP] · Oct 24, 2009

basically the circlip just stops the swivel from falling back....

as I'm bored here's a drawing...

Sirus · Oct 24, 2009

oooo you used a ruler anorl...int you posh

[JP] · Oct 24, 2009

naaa... just used squares on paint..lol

gemsdad · Oct 24, 2009

how thick is the circlip.

[JP] · Oct 24, 2009

not sure, maybe 1mm?... I'll get some details and take some pics tomorrow..

mark-d · Oct 25, 2009

could you not weld it on insead

lerk · Oct 25, 2009

But then it wouldn't be a swivel would it???

Patman1200 · Oct 28, 2009

I managed to drill a 30mm hole into a 5mm mild steel plate the other night with a cone drill no problem, and I know the ones I bought from Lidl go up to 36mm, so I would say it's the easiest option.

[JP] · Oct 28, 2009

yes, I think Im going down the route of buying the hole saw and arbor.. its only 14 quid for both at Unimaster in Newbury and they tell me it will be fine for 6mm thick steel...just need to take time doing it.

on another note, got the swivel points machined today in Newbury as well, only cost me the loose change I had in my pocket..

fanatic · Oct 28, 2009

fook me 36mm hole is war and peace

jai_landrover · Oct 28, 2009

Not keen on swivel recovery points like these. The only real option is to do drill it at 36mm you will never file it exactly right for a nice fit. there are some out on the market that clamp together with a thick plate front and rear eliminates the circlip. you could always put a backing plate behind the rear plate after the swivel pin is put in but that will require a spacer and then a plate

Drilling a 36mm hole!

[JP]

New Member

Sirus

Your all Banned except me

[JP]

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gemsdad

NOT BOTHERED.

[JP]

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mark-d

Well-Known Member

lerk

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Patman1200

Active Member

[JP]

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fanatic

RESPECT IS EARNED, BEATINGS ARE FREE ;-)

jai_landrover

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