Down on bump stops air pump quits after 11 seconds

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ok here we go..... this is all when the compressor is running
Reservoir valve 100% open
exhaust valve 0%
Front cross link valve 0%
rear cross link valve 0%
pressure sensor Voltage 0.98 V
isolation switch 12.25 V
 
LR220 France said:
Ok here we go..... this is all when the compressor is running
Reservoir valve 100% open
exhaust valve 0%
Front cross link valve 0%
rear cross link valve 0%
pressure sensor Voltage 0.98 V
isolation switch 12.25 V
Click to expand...

brilliant , many thks

so ur air tank solenoid is open , isn’t venting via the exhaust valve

have u got a DSC button on the dashboard plse , the cross link solenoids open when the DSC is pressed , basically what that does Is make the suspension act like a live axle , so as one side goes up the other side goes down

so indeed with the DSC off and without the light illuminated the should remain closed 0%

the reservoir pressure sensor should have 5 x volts on it , wonder if there’s a bad earth , might pay u to check the wiring on the reservoir valve block as that’s where it’s located
 
LR220 France said:
I can bypass relay F7 to make the pump run continuous, and do a thumb test? which pipe is the outlet on the AMK?
sorry no wiring diagrams or manuals.

Lee
Click to expand...

indeed u could do as a quick test , will become very evident if the compressor is useless

I’ll find the manuals for u
 
LR220 France said:
Great, thanks, ill go look then do some tinkering, Thanks gary:)
Click to expand...

Ur so welcome , always a team effort within the forum community

also just found this for the AMK , for the dryer

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMK-Air-...Air-Dryer-Filtration-Repair-kit-/122340435295

just in case link below is when the amk was upgraded from an hitachi , included to then show up where the connections etc are

https://www.air-suspension-parts.de/media/products/land-rover-suspension-pump-LTB00420v3.pdf
 
So, i have just checked the compressor pressure, i can hold my finger over the pipe no problem and when i release there is a swish of air, but it certianly isnt enough pressure for me not to be able to block off the flow,
i checked the wires from the big brass nut on the valve block and there was a kinked wire but not obviously broken, i need to find the earth wire you mentioned but the reading to the pressure sensor is the same at .98 volts
 
LR220 France said:
So, i have just checked the compressor pressure, i can hold my finger over the pipe no problem and when i release there is a swish of air, but it certianly isnt enough pressure for me not to be able to block off the flow,
i checked the wires from the big brass nut on the valve block and there was a kinked wire but not obviously broken, i need to find the earth wire you mentioned but the reading to the pressure sensor is the same at .98 volts
Click to expand...

hi mate

wonder if the filter kit may help, worth a look as I know they can block up which if they are would stop it working , would also cause the motor to get hot very quickly

ref the voltage indeed could be a bad earth , also about that if the ecu is sending out the full 5Vdc before it shutting down ,

so we don’t get tied up in knots so to speak I think personally the best course of action is getting the compressor working 100% first , otherwise feel we would be jumping from one thing to another

I would be tempted to undo the dryer housing on the AMK and see if it’s blocked first , then once that’s 100% can retest the pressure sensor , can use a multimeter to test grounds, continuity, or link wires etc after

see what u think please ref the compressor , enclosed a link in previous post so can at least buy new filters if req
 
My filters looked blocked

0374082F-7853-42D7-A76C-865015C005E5.jpeg

I did the compressor rebuild as well. I think you need to do that too so you have a good known one, to continue.

J
 
marjon said:
My filters looked blocked

View attachment 211033

I did the compressor rebuild as well. I think you need to do that too so you have a good known one, to continue.

J
Click to expand...

hiya

does save a lot of money that’s for sure, see you’ve done an hitachi , hopefully the AMK the customer has will have the same issue

indeed that’s what i also thought , starting off with a good compressor and then work our way through it step by step

alas know the system all too well, lol , virtually the entire system was full of that white dust, destroyed my compressor and all 3 x valve blocks, oh and had to replace front struts as they were leaking and an air tank to boot

but my god the difference was like night and day with such a comfortable ride quality
 
gstuart said:
hiya

does save a lot of money that’s for sure, see you’ve done an hitachi , hopefully the AMK the customer has will have the same issue

indeed that’s what i also thought , starting off with a good compressor and then work our way through it step by step

alas know the system all too well, lol , virtually the entire system was full of that white dust, destroyed my compressor and all 3 x valve blocks, oh and had to replace front struts as they were leaking and an air tank to boot

but my god the difference was like night and day with such a comfortable ride quality
Click to expand...

yep hitachi. But I thought if I was going to do it, do it all while it’s out. As you can see my desiccant had turned white but hadn’t seemed to have turned to powder, so guess I got in early:).

Also a quick question on the tank pressure reading. You say it should read 5v. Ops is reading 0.98v but if it a 0-5v sensor/transmitter? then surely that just shows no pressure in the system?
I will have to fire up the laptop and look at the diagram (but that isn’t going to happen tonight).
The first 2 faults the OP shows, seems to lead me to the compressor. Then work from there. But ours has been fine since:)


Hope you are keeping safe G

J
 
Yep im going to take the compressor out tomorrow between thunder showers! get the re build kit ordered and take it from there. just a quick question, which fuses/relays should i pull if its going to be stood there for a while without a pump fitted? and maybe this would also be a good time to whip the battery out and give that a charge also?
 
marjon said:
yep hitachi. But I thought if I was going to do it, do it all while it’s out. As you can see my desiccant had turned white but hadn’t seemed to have turned to powder, so guess I got in early:).

Also a quick question on the tank pressure reading. You say it should read 5v. Ops is reading 0.98v but if it a 0-5v sensor/transmitter? then surely that just shows no pressure in the system?
I will have to fire up the laptop and look at the diagram (but that isn’t going to happen tonight).
The first 2 faults the OP shows, seems to lead me to the compressor. Then work from there. But ours has been fine since:)


Hope you are keeping safe G

J
Click to expand...

hiya

apologises as I’m terrible trying to explain things, lol

there’s a pressure sensor on the reservoir valve block, that sensor should read 5 Vdc , alas is only reading the gallery pressure at the moment as it’s cutting out so quick

The gallery pressure is what’s left in the reservoir air tank after the landy has been turned off, ur hear that hiss which is the exhaust valve venting from the compressor which then just leaves the gallery pressure

From and rear valve blocks will have also slammed shut to keep the pressure within the system

indeed once that compressor is 100% can then retest that pressure sensor on the reservoir valve block

hope that makes sense

Enclosed some diagrams of the D3, very similar to the RRS

hope that helps

ps, forgot to say , that pressure sensor will also read the entire system once it’s all up and running , ecu sends a 5Vdc supply to the sensor and then sends a signal back to which then the ecu reads

It uses that pressure sensor to turn the compressor on and off as u select the height req and turns off after the height sensors also sends the signals back , there Vdc changes according to height



EFE72DDF-EBEC-40C5-BE34-0A6376E6E95D.png
96E929C6-F69D-499F-994A-279BD7016730.png
3C4FE428-DA09-4F29-8ADB-76E781A60684.jpeg
958D7C14-EF1F-42D8-8094-9E4C68595911.jpeg
 
LR220 France said:
Yep im going to take the compressor out tomorrow between thunder showers! get the re build kit ordered and take it from there. just a quick question, which fuses/relays should i pull if its going to be stood there for a while without a pump fitted? and maybe this would also be a good time to whip the battery out and give that a charge also?
Click to expand...

Always disconnect the battery. The relay you already know but not necessary to pull.
Some say get a new relay with the kit?
You will always need a good battery:)

J
 
LR220 France said:
Yep im going to take the compressor out tomorrow between thunder showers! get the re build kit ordered and take it from there. just a quick question, which fuses/relays should i pull if its going to be stood there for a while without a pump fitted? and maybe this would also be a good time to whip the battery out and give that a charge also?
Click to expand...

hiya

plus 1 what @marjon just mentioned ref the battery , should be around 12.6 Vdc standing

To disable the compressor u pull fuse F 26 , but ur removing the battery which is safer , stops any risk of sending current back to the suspensions ecu

also a warning , watch out when reconnecting the battery as the suspension can drop to its bump stops , as the system is monitored around every 4 x hours , regardless if the alarm is on or off

hope that helps and indeed Plse let us know how u get on , Plus we adore piccies plse as will be interesting to see what u find , thks
 
marjon said:
Always disconnect the battery. The relay you already know but not necessary to pull.
Some say get a new relay with the kit?
You will always need a good battery:)

J
Click to expand...

indeed, plus 1 ref the battery

just a pic, showing my new reservoir valve block which also has the pressure sensor, this is the one that receives the 5Vdc from the ecu, also fitted new type of pipe connectors

also my new front valve block , just bubble tested the joints
84E8A711-A29E-42E4-B078-704D91F65E41.jpeg
C082F541-A269-4956-9297-B7AF13C44E63.jpeg
 
gstuart said:
there’s a pressure sensor on the reservoir valve block, that sensor should read 5 Vdc , alas is only reading the gallery pressure at the moment as it’s cutting out so quick

The gallery pressure is what’s left in the reservoir air tank after the landy has been turned off, ur hear that hiss which is the exhaust valve venting from the compressor which then just leaves the gallery pressure
Click to expand...

But I still see a 0-5v sensor? Just trying to see it and work out which way it works. So is 5v full or empty:) or are you saying it receives 5v but the return goes back but may not be 5v? In which case it can’t go back to earth? (Really need to look at my wiring diagram)
Just trying to get my head around it but its late so will leave it with you G

Hitachi pump pics:)

@LR220 France pls forgive our ramblings but it’s sort of how we learn in between updates:)

J
 
marjon said:
But I still see a 0-5v sensor? Just trying to see it and work out which way it works. So is 5v full or empty:) or are you saying it receives 5v but the return goes back but may not be 5v? In which case it can’t go back to earth? (Really need to look at my wiring diagram)
Just trying to get my head around it but its late so will leave it with you G

Hitachi pump pics:)

@LR220 France pls forgive our ramblings but it’s sort of how we learn in between updates:)

J
Click to expand...

Hi Buddy

as u know I always like chatting back and forth

here’s an extract from the manual ref the pressure sensor


The valve block also contains a pressure sensor which can be used to measure the system air pressure in the air springs and the reservoir. The pressure sensor is connected via a harness connector to the air suspension control module. The control module provides a 5V reference voltage to the pressure sensor and monitors the return signal voltage from the sensor.
Using this sensor, the control module controls the air supply unit operation and therefore limits the nominal system operating pressure to 244 lbf/in2 (16.8 bar gage).

Hope that’s worded better J

here’s also some more reading material

https://media.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/Land Rover factory D3 air suspension description.pdf


Plus 1, @LR220 France , hope u don’t mind us gassing ref suspension
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Help D3 Suspension
Replies
3
Views
658
Andrew bibby
A
B
P38A P38A 1996 4.6 Auto HSE EAS slow to lower and rise + random height change to extended height + compressor running too frequently.
Replies
9
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
B
Ride Level Control Module
Replies
3
Views
1K
Big CWW
B
Flossie
P38A Eas issues
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
R
SLS Warning lights after sensor change
Replies
2
Views
657
sierrafery
sierrafery
Back
Top