J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Hi Guys, could someone tell me where my door courtesy light switches are,as my drivers one keeps telling me my door is open and because of that my suspension is playing up. Thanks.
P38A Door light switches
- Thread starter J L Carr
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
All done from the drivers door lock micro switches.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Hi Datarek, so it's all done inside the door card, so to get to it you have to take off the door card,can you buy these or is it a new lock.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I think it's Marty UK that does refurbished door locks. Supposedly the door lock from the MG TF is the same but cheaper than the JLR part but you would need to check that. There have been posts about it.
- Posts
- 4,549
Not complicated at all the RR's ... my interior light doesn't work and because of that my suspension didn't work properly, officer .... honest
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I think Marty is still in NZ so no redurbed latches available.
The microswitches are dead easy to replace on early models and a little trickier on later models. Some MG latches are indeed similar from the same era - same components - and with the right model may even be identical.
The microswitches are dead easy to replace on early models and a little trickier on later models. Some MG latches are indeed similar from the same era - same components - and with the right model may even be identical.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Thanks, but if so where vould I buy a micro switch from as what type of MG I would say the V8 possibly the roadsters but definitely not the midget.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I cannot recall where Marty got the switches but he had loads of them. I guess you could take it apart and see if there's a serial number to Google. I used to use RS Components (expensive) or Farnell but probably all on Amazon now, or eBay.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
The microswitches are a block of 3 and as far as I know cannot be bought in that format. I bought individual microswitches but assembling them into a block and locating them in the lock assembly is a real PITA.
The MG with the same lock is I think the TF but I'm not sure.
Attachments
Gord Wedman
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 617
- Location
- Chilliwack, British Columbia
There are a lot of posts on this subject on rangerovers.net. Seems to be a common problem. I have had my drivers door do this twice. Basically fixed itself. I have Marty's rebuilt latches so I am thinking a bad connection somewhere. Here is a post from Marty that suggests a work around.
Attachments
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Early ones are separate but with a rod that goes through all 3. Can just be unclipped. Later ones require some fiddling.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
The switches, as you can see, were in one block on my 94 latch. With the new micro switches I used it was not possible to put a rod through as the holes didn't align on the one that is reversed.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
That's a bit weird as mine's a '95. Did you have 2 plugs on the latch or just the one?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I have one of each but I can't remember which was which.
- Posts
- 3,878
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
DC1C-A1AA for the CDL switch in the drivers door (this has 5A contacts), which allows for the extra tailgate motor current. DC3C-A1AA for all the rest (drivers or passenger). Credit to Marty for finding the correct types.
The holes do line up with one reversed, although might not align with the latch housing, but that doesn't matter as they sit firmly when the latch is assembled.
Simply use 2.5mm rods & cut flush.
The holes do line up with one reversed, although might not align with the latch housing, but that doesn't matter as they sit firmly when the latch is assembled.
Simply use 2.5mm rods & cut flush.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
DC1C-A1AA is 5 amps 125/240 volts AC, the current rating is much reduced for DC. Why use the lower current device for the other switches? Physically they are the same.
- Posts
- 3,878
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
If I remember correctly I ended up using higher current version for all. Been working ok for at least 5-6 years.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
2 plugs is early model. Single plug is later one.
