Does anyone use their P38 Offroad

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
L

langley

New Member
Posts
372
Location
Bristol UK
Hi,

As the title suggests really, does anyone actually use their rangie properly.

If i get another im looking to use it for green laning and pay and play sites, I would also like to use it as an expedition vehicle once or twice.

So, if you drive offroad what mods are you running??

Most offroad P38's ive seen have got coils on rather than the air springs.
How do you keep the ECU dry under the bonnet and the BECM dry in the cab??

Any other mods and where did you get them from

Thanks very much

An yeah i know that a P38 wil be a challenging unreliable rig.
 
Look up (on here) a member called 998Turbo (or is it 996Turbo ??)

He has a modified P38 and looks tasty, he off roads regularly in his and he is based in france.....

I maybe wrong but he owns/runs/works for a company who builds P38 Off Road gear too and his P38 is kind of a showcase for his work....

005P38%2520Houy.JPG


Also goooooooogle images "RR-Evolution"
 
Last edited:
Thanks mate, i thought i remembered a rather beastly offroader on this site, just couldnt remember who it was...

Has to be said, having searched lots on here for offroad info... Most searches just bring up arguments..

So if anyone does use em, happy to be Pm'd to avoid conflict from other landy drivers.
 
I sometimes put two wheels on the kerb and even drive on grass occasionally. Sometimes when the grass is damp. Does this count?
 
wammers said:
I sometimes put two wheels on the kerb and even drive on grass occasionally. Sometimes when the grass is damp. Does this count?
Click to expand...

Not quite, but Kudos points, you can have some more points if you engage low range to climb the kerb..

Glad you rocked up Wammers, i know your loathing for coil springs, but as im looking to build a offroad wagon. Do you happen to know who makes the best coil conversions?? If i have to do it may as well do it right..

As figthing Arnots and fiddling with the sensors etc just seems like putting alot fo stress on a system that cant cope at the best of times.
 
wammers said:
I sometimes put two wheels on the kerb and even drive on grass occasionally. Sometimes when the grass is damp. Does this count?
Click to expand...
+1 and I like to play in the snow.
There is a good video on Utube of a P38 offroading, it's on fire:eek:
Colin at BBS even off roads an L322, look at Yankee sites they use them a lot off road.
 
Datatek said:
+1 and I like to play in the snow.
There is a good video on Utube of a P38 offroading, it's on fire:eek:
Colin at BBS even off roads an L322, look at Yankee sites they use them a lot off road.
Click to expand...

Thanks DATA, yeah i have been researching for a while now.

They mainly seem to go BIG coil and body lift!!! An usually try to get some sort of Ford or Chevy parts in there as well.. Scary stuff..

Data, do you know if the truck will still be street legal with a coil lift, as i dont remember seeing a headlight adjuster anywhere in it.
 
langley said:
Not quite, but Kudos points, you can have some more points if you engage low range to climb the kerb..

Glad you rocked up Wammers, i know your loathing for coil springs, but as im looking to build a offroad wagon. Do you happen to know who makes the best coil conversions?? If i have to do it may as well do it right..

As figthing Arnots and fiddling with the sensors etc just seems like putting alot fo stress on a system that cant cope at the best of times.
Click to expand...
Air is way better than coil, it will even go above wading height to get you out of trouble if you ground it. For real serious stuff, Arnott Gen III's give an extra 2" of articulation.
The EAS is perfectly reliable if well maintained.
 
Last edited:
Datatek said:
Air is way better than coil, it will even go above wading height to get you out of trouble if you ground it. For real serious stuff, Arnott Gen III's give an extra 2" of articulation.
The EAS is perectly reliable if well maintained.
Click to expand...

+1. Modifying the EAS in my view is a lot better than fitting extended coils for off road. By modifying the EAS you retain the on road safety features, extended coils make the vehicle seriously less stable around corners and in high speed avoidance maneuvers.
 
langley said:
Hi,

How do you keep the ECU dry under the bonnet and the BECM dry in the cab??
Click to expand...

Really does seem to be a design oversight that they decided to put the BECM under the seat. Does anyone know where the modules for the L322 are kept? I presume somewhere waterproof?
 
With regard to modifying the EAS, by fitting longer air springs and the longer shocks. WOuld you not therefore need to lengthen the sensor arms?? Also would the anti roll bars need extended Mounts???

Are you able to completely remap the EAS settings?? As im looking at running some large tyres on modular rims so this will require the vehicle to be statically lifted to stop them tearing the body work off..
 
i'm running mine on a Bearmach +2" lift kit with Bearmach Tuffback +20mm shocks. also have fitted 265 75 16 Maxxis Bighorn MT764. it drives very nice on the road with a bit of swaying(similar to my defender 90 when it got lifted). haven't yet tried it offroad, can't wait!

one particularly thing that Bearmach have forgotten with their kit is on the p38 the fuel tank and power steering box are on the drivers side which means you have to pop a little spacer below the springs on that side so it sits level. I believe the terrafirma kit has slightly longer springs on the on the drivers side to correct this.
 
also, Bearmach do diff sliders which are very good and I didn't manage to find any other brand which did any particular guard for the diffs on the p38.
 
willinone said:
i'm running mine on a Bearmach +2" lift kit with Bearmach Tuffback +20mm shocks. also have fitted 265 75 16 Maxxis Bighorn MT764. it drives very nice on the road with a bit of swaying(similar to my defender 90 when it got lifted). haven't yet tried it offroad, can't wait!

one particularly thing that Bearmach have forgotten with their kit is on the p38 the fuel tank and power steering box are on the drivers side which means you have to pop a little spacer below the springs on that side so it sits level. I believe the terrafirma kit has slightly longer springs on the on the drivers side to correct this.
Click to expand...

Thanks thats really usefull an im looking at similar size tyres....

Was wondering about just putting 2" lift blocks on the EAS system and dropping the sensors.But, cant seem to find anyone that actually does any for the P38, read about some american ones but i cant find em.

Any idea what the max lift would be, as i would imagine that size tyre would need more than a 2" lift for full articulation.. An maybe wheel arch extensions? Have you gone for any drivetrain enhancements? Are the standard prop shafts happy to run at those angles???
 
stjohnsmythe said:
Really does seem to be a design oversight that they decided to put the BECM under the seat. Does anyone know where the modules for the L322 are kept? I presume somewhere waterproof?
Click to expand...
P38 - Some have fitted extension leads to the BeCM wiring and the other ECUs under the passanger seat and built a false ceiling and placed them up under the roof to keep them dry.

L322 - The BCU is located in the same place as the P38 , under the Drivers seat and is just as vunerable to water ingress....
 
langley said:
Thanks thats really usefull an im looking at similar size tyres....

Was wondering about just putting 2" lift blocks on the EAS system and dropping the sensors.But, cant seem to find anyone that actually does any for the P38, read about some american ones but i cant find em.

Any idea what the max lift would be, as i would imagine that size tyre would need more than a 2" lift for full articulation.. An maybe wheel arch extensions? Have you gone for any drivetrain enhancements? Are the standard prop shafts happy to run at those angles???
Click to expand...
Modified mountings/arms are available for the sensors. Most of it is a waste of time, the P38 is very competant as standard, 16" rims with AT's, just don't get it wet.
 
I off road my P38 a lot and have never really had any issues hight is good can keep up with the defender and disco boys only issue is tyre size I'm running 235/70R16 and standerd EAS but will be using a 2" block under the air bags and extending the hight sensors so I can fit a larger tyre to give the diffs more clearance otherwise she is all standerd and I don't even have TC mines a dt bog standerd spec and I love it, don't let anybody tell you there no good off road they are as good as any other land rover if prepped correctly and if you do get stuck you have a lot more comfort waiting for a tow out
 
freemonkey said:
I off road my P38 a lot and have never really had any issues hight is good can keep up with the defender and disco boys only issue is tyre size I'm running 235/70R16 and standerd EAS but will be using a 2" block under the air bags and extending the hight sensors so I can fit a larger tyre to give the diffs more clearance otherwise she is all standerd and I don't even have TC mines a dt bog standerd spec and I love it, don't let anybody tell you there no good off road they are as good as any other land rover if prepped correctly and if you do get stuck you have a lot more comfort waiting for a tow out
Click to expand...

THat is exactly why i want to raise one, to get some larger tyres on it. In the static condition. As the diffs are relatively low really on standard size rubber.

Where are you going to get the blocks for the air spring lift??

An where are these modified sensor arms available from, as i havent seen any. As just modifying the arm for length will cause it to snap under articulation as has been experience alot by the european and US modifiers. WHo all put some sort of flexing joint in the arm to cater for the axle twist.
 
Blocks are been mad by a friend of mine I got the idea from rangrovers.net with extending the arms I'm going to try a small bit of rubber hose to reconnect the arm after I cut it as this will allow it to flex hopefully enough
 
freemonkey said:
Blocks are been mad by a friend of mine I got the idea from rangrovers.net with extending the arms I'm going to try a small bit of rubber hose to reconnect the arm after I cut it as this will allow it to flex hopefully enough
Click to expand...

Why dont you just use extended mountings for them?? Would be easier to just lower the sensors i would have thought. Alot seem to use some ally plate.

Let me know about your lift blocks, might be interested in some if they are any good...

Next issue will be relocating the BECM to the roof and moving/ sealing the electrics from low down.... Must be able to extend the harness to the BECM i would imagine..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ukadamwest
P38A Farewell to another P38.. or hello ?
Replies
18
Views
2K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
P38A P38 DSE Manual (non-EGR) No turbo boost
Replies
7
Views
874
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Blob
L322 Solved - C1A13-64 (AF) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery
Replies
2
Views
3K
stuu
stuu
xDParis64
Freelander 1 Converting from wasted spark to distributor (or Visa Versa)
Replies
0
Views
491
xDParis64
xDParis64
Farmer Dan
Its a P38 V8!!!! I want to swap the engine :)
2
Replies
21
Views
6K
300bhp/ton
300bhp/ton
Back
Top