do these diagrams exist?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

towsey956

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,104
Location
Northyorkshire
Hi all

Il keep it simple

Having a going on with a door lock on my d1 (already posted there aswell). I’m wanting, or needing, a wiring diagram that actually shows where the wires are routed in the car not just what wires go to what like the usual ones, basically I want to know where the wire splits to each door after it leaves the master in the drivers door

Please help

Towsey
 
Thanks for the reply but I don’t know him and wouldn’t know where to start msging him, getting pictures up on here is about my limit with technology :)

Cheers

Towsey
 
Can you work it out from pictures in the parts book showing the loom? Not ideal but also you may be able to cross refernce this to the connection banks shown on the wiring diagram. I had to do this for the central locking on a Merc. In the end it was easier to work from the door connections as these were accessible and the locking control box (which was a pig to get to).
 
Cheers

I found the parts book pages that shows the actuators etc but not in situ so no clue as to where multiplug are

I know I’m hopeless at anything computer oriented but there must of been something made showing what I’m after, I just want to check a wire ha.

Towsey
 
Diagram from Rave for routing of harnesses
upload_2020-9-27_16-28-11.png
 
Actual wiring The "C" are the connector numbers should assist in finding each end of wires, this is central locking which also integrates into theft system.The wires you are looking for are the orange(O), and Pink (K) ones
upload_2020-9-27_16-34-40.png
 
Last edited:
Wow hello there new best friend!

I have seen the bottom pics but not the top ones thank you, yes it’s the orange and pink I want. Can we find out what wires each of the c plugs are for?

Cheers

Towsey
 
Not quite sure what you mean but looking at both sets of diagrams you can see the connectors(C) that the wire connect through the other number correspond to the pins but just look for pink and orange wires. At the top of the lower diagrams the dotted lines S2009 and S2007 are splices (all wires crimped together) some where in loom :-( the connectors not listed in upper pics are inside the doors at the motors themselves. the main door connectors C2101,3005, 3007 and 2104 will have other wires for whatever else is installed in doors (window motors , switches, puddle lamps red warning lamps). You should be able to check continuity from each door or motor back to the drivers door with a multimeter just using the colours. Disconnect battery to be safe (it could damage your meter if you connect to pink and orange by accident.)
Hope this helps
 
Thank you for all that I will have a look see. Just thought aswell I haven’t looked where the wires bend as the door moves...hmm

Towsey
 
Really chuffed with all the input off you lot, thank you

I had a rummage around with the multimeter earlier but got caught out by the dark...oh ok tea was ready ;)

Well I’ve checked from the actuator thru to the floor under the passenger seat where it looks like the wire goes under the centre console as the diagram shows, but all I’ve found so far is a small hole that was dealt with using part of a plastic milk bottle and some tiger seal...it will do for now.

Given that the other side rear actuator works better than this side, and that there looks to be a connector and a splice under the console where the two sides split according to the diagram, it would be nice to sort this without going too much further. There is always the possibility that the spare actuator I tried has exactly the same issue as the original so I think if no joy at the splice il look at that again

Thanks again

Towsey
 
Well that was the idea but looking at the diagram the connector will be one of each colour then the splice will split them, but I was thinking of cutting and re-connecting the other way round, unless I see something obvious, or if no joy there swap actuators

Towsey
 
You can (carefully) press the tabs in and pull the pins out then swap over. You can use normal (sowing) pins and push them into the cable and get a meter on that or do it to 2 cables and bridge them with a bit of wire. It all helps with fault finding.
 
I’m not quite 100% on what you mean to swap. A single orange and single pink come under the centre console thru a multiplug and then are spliced to send one orange to each black door and one pink but there are no plugs there to swap. What I found today is that where they are spliced all it is is literally a solid wire in each colour running to the OSR door from the multiplug with a bit of sheath cut off and a little crimp with another wire going to the NSR door in each colour. To me that means the current is going to favour the OSR door so I re did them to equal it out to both doors evenly, so hopefully next time I go to it (as it needs to be left a while to play up) I should see if that’s helped at all and if not il swap rear actuators side to side and try that, and if that cures it then the 2 I’ve tried must have the same problem

I’ve had the meter on it but it doesn’t register in time as they only receive a quick blast of power so they need an oscillascope putting on but I have one lined up if needs be

Cheers

Towsey
 
Ok so it’s the actuator!

I’m happy I’ve found the fault but so annoyed because of the time I’ve spent and how many parts I’ve removed and that if I didn’t have a spare actuator I would of swapped the originals side to side as the first job, turns out my spare has exactly the same fault as the original!

So, anyone know the best way into them and tips on a fix

Towsey
 
Back
Top