Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hope that works for you long term Ian, I got fed up of rebuilding mine weekly so in the end fitted a disc handbrake!

Hopefully yours will be less ****ed than mine, tbh it certainly looks it. If tha fails and you don't want a £240 quid X Brake, fit a 300tdi handbrake, they have a direct cable fitting and are a better design than the 200 item.

Enjoyed the pics mate :)
 
Mr Noisy said:
Hope that works for you long term Ian, I got fed up of rebuilding mine weekly so in the end fitted a disc handbrake!

Hopefully yours will be less ****ed than mine, tbh it certainly looks it. If tha fails and you don't want a £240 quid X Brake, fit a 300tdi handbrake, they have a direct cable fitting and are a better design than the 200 item.

Enjoyed the pics mate :)
Click to expand...

An X-brake looks cool and has less parts to go wrong by the looks of them. My unit was not so much gunged up inside but the actual pistons had some really crappy sticky solid type grease on them which just jammed them up. A good soak over night was all that was needed along with a good clean by me.

The unit is in good nick and the shoes are quite new by the looks of it. Anyhow all working great now thank god.

I hadnt realised how many little jobs I have to do :)

Decided to get the Radius arms from mm4x4 at the end of the month. They are doing radius arms and cranked trailing arms with all the bushes for £300. QT items too. At the moment the bank says OK so keep your fingers crossed :D
 
GreenHornet said:
Yeah, I bet you were thinking I had duck out and was all boring and **** lol. Did you have a good time?
Click to expand...

Not sure if it was agood time lol managed to beat the n/s rear 1/4 quite badly, and also got a nasty noise if the give it a hard time while in diff lock so need to work out what I've ****ed up now tbh I'm more ****ed off about the bodywork tbh
Overall it was a good night but not sure at what cost tho lol
Oh well nevermind eh!!
 
Matt Baxter said:
Not sure if it was agood time lol managed to beat the n/s rear 1/4 quite badly, and also got a nasty noise if the give it a hard time while in diff lock so need to work out what I've ****ed up now tbh I'm more ****ed off about the bodywork tbh
Overall it was a good night but not sure at what cost tho lol
Oh well nevermind eh!!
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that mate. That's why I am a big girl and want to work on my bumpers before being too mad. Bodywork is going to get battered but it still makes you feel ****e.

We will have a look at the gearbox next time we meet up.
 
i had to strip my drum h/brake a lil bit before it put it off the road, had the same solid gunge in it, striped n cleaned and worked like a charm
 
Mr Noisy said:
Evidently you haven't been deep enough! :D :D
Click to expand...

Deep enough!

I am well experienced thank you :p I always go deep................lol

Funny thing is, is that there aren't many places around here to wade and tbh they aren't that deep either. I'm very disappointed. Snorkel, could have got away with a plastic bottle and a piece of pipe under the bonnet:(
 
Mr Noisy, you mentioned last week that you do not favour steering guards. Could I ask why as I am working on mine and would like to understand your thoughts.

This weekend I moved forward with the steering guard for the Hornet. My basic premise is that the standard guards that you get don't reach low enough to protect the steering bars once the vehicle has been lifted. Also they all appear to be weak and easily bent in the centre so this needs addressing.

Below is the hardboard template for the side of the steering guard.

1330a3a1.jpg


Once I cut the other side out I will put them on the vehicle and then start matching in the winch bumper. This is getting to be more important as the front isn't protected and the misses really wants a winch on it so we can be more independent when out and about. Probably should get a spare as well lol.

Next I had a play with some left over bits in the garage. So here is a good recipe.

Take a lid from a gravy jar, a lid from a spray can and one 12v halogen light.

d6874c1c.jpg


Next use a hole saw and cut some 44mm holes
5eba65a5.jpg


Then after a bit of sanding you fit the light in.

4993647a.jpg


A bit of wire, using a connector for the pins on the back of the light

e88b9248.jpg


And then bobs your mothers brother.

1edcb9f5.jpg


It's not a bad spread of light and pretty good for 50 pence. So I was thinking that these can be used for lighting all sorts of areas. Inside, under bonnet or even nice tidy reversing lights if I can get the look of them sorted as this was only a test.
 
GreenHornet said:
Yeah they do get hot. I was just playing with some ideas and left it connected for a few minutes and it got very warm lol.
Click to expand...
Why not fit MR16 12V LED lamps with the same GU5.3 fitting? they don't get anything like as hot. Although they cost quite a bit more they have a much longer life (100X) and would survive the jolting and vibrations better.
 
Last edited:
Hi Ian :)

To be honest, as fun/exciting as wading can be, it only leads to premature component failure, so you're probably best leaving going deep for other recreational activities :)

Regards the steering guard mate, there's 3 reasons I chose not to fit.

1. Extra weight you don't always need. Could be said for a winch/lights/anything but it depends how valuable/useful that weight is I suppose.

2. When attacking an incline, a steering guard may contact the ground. This will take weight off and traction away from the tyres. Of course it may protect your steering from taking the hit, but my style is not smash and grab, so if my HD bars make contact they are strong enough to obstruct the car's movement which I can feel, so I know I've hit ground.

3. It can act as a scoop when reversing in deep **** and hinder your progress and/or actually get jammed on a berm etc and sometimes get you stuck.

Basically, I feel that a steering guard is for the driver who wants or needs to hit things flat out, but this comes with side effects that I felt were unnecessary for me! :)

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Sam.
 
Mr Noisy said:
Hi Ian :)

To be honest, as fun/exciting as wading can be, it only leads to premature component failure, so you're probably best leaving going deep for other recreational activities :)

Regards the steering guard mate, there's 3 reasons I chose not to fit.

1. Extra weight you don't always need. Could be said for a winch/lights/anything but it depends how valuable/useful that weight is I suppose.

2. When attacking an incline, a steering guard may contact the ground. This will take weight off and traction away from the tyres. Of course it may protect your steering from taking the hit, but my style is not smash and grab, so if my HD bars make contact they are strong enough to obstruct the car's movement which I can feel, so I know I've hit ground.

3. It can act as a scoop when reversing in deep **** and hinder your progress and/or actually get jammed on a berm etc and sometimes get you stuck.

Basically, I feel that a steering guard is for the driver who wants or needs to hit things flat out, but this comes with side effects that I felt were unnecessary for me! :)

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Sam.
Click to expand...
I can and do agree with Sam on this, I have a steering guard, but mine came fitted to the disco and it has caused more problems than it has solved, i have still had to replace the track rod, the drag link is already bent and the guard itself is out of shape, yes sometimes i am a bit smash and grab in the driving style, but when i have been stuck in deep sh1t the guard has only hindered rear recovery, it also acts like a reverse facing plow when being tugged backwards out of the sloppy stuff.

it does look cool though:eek:
 
I've just taken my steering guard off. Because it wouldn't fit back on with the winch bumper fitted. As I don't have a lift. I Tended to hit the berms between ruts more. So found it useful for saving me sterring components.

I've never bothered with a lift kit before either. But having invested in some 265/70/16 BFG Muds. It's looking like I might need a Body lift. Gonna fit me HD springs and do a bit of trimming first. See if I can get away without one. But I'm not holding out much hope :(
 
GreenHornet said:
Take a lid from a gravy jar, a lid from a spray can and one 12v halogen light.

Next use a hole saw and cut some 44mm holes

Then after a bit of sanding you fit the light in.

A bit of wire, using a connector for the pins on the back of the light

And then bobs your mothers brother.

1edcb9f5.jpg


It's not a bad spread of light and pretty good for 50 pence. So I was thinking that these can be used for lighting all sorts of areas. Inside, under bonnet or even nice tidy reversing lights if I can get the look of them sorted as this was only a test.
Click to expand...

Have you had a look at the Xeng lites. Similar idea but uses a length of Ally tubing. with a jubillee clip to allow them to be fitted to a Roof bar or rollcage Tube. Rediculously expensive for what they are. But if you like to Modify and build your own stuff they're a good basis to copy from.

X-eng High Performance Off-Road Engineering
 
I hear what's being said about the steering guards, but if they are that bad at their job, why arent they redesigned to work properly?

Has anyone see the track rod protector from Gwynn Lewis? It's an RHS that goes over the rod.

So I suppose the way forward being suggested is relocate the damper and upgrade to sumo bars or dan bars
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Discovery 2 Wheel Arch Rust
Replies
19
Views
1K
Badger688
Badger688
S
Disco 1 Disco 1 Rust repair prep
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
sv_dOnut
S
D
Discovery 1 300tdi immobiliser
Replies
1
Views
254
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
alfapat
Vehicle pulls L/Right
Replies
6
Views
217
Nodge68
Nodge68
A
1995 Discovery 300TDI Engine Issue - Thoughts
Replies
2
Views
523
shaynecm
S
Back
Top