Discovery 4 DPF

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CRS

Well-Known Member
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I am about to buy a Discovery 4 2015 plate old shape, on my Defender 2.2 ford engine I know sometimes when it’s re generation has started by the change in the engine noise so I stick it in 4 th gear and keep at about 50mph which does the job, due to having to make short journeys sometimes is there any signs from the Discovery engine before you get a light on the dashboard.
Thanks
 
Have a quick google for tdv6/sdv6 crank failure, expensive cars to keep on the road, think long and hard before buying one.

2015 is that a 15 or 65 plate? some late 15 plates were euro6 and all 65 plate onwards were euro6, might be relevant depending on where you live.
 
It’s a 15 plate, I would not go into Khans territory if you paid me, for some reason I thought the Discovery Engine was not subject to the crank issues. Just looked it was registered 1st March 2015, so hopefully it won’t have add blue .
 
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Plus1 ^^^! With regards to the engine issues , unfortunately it’s been reported on TDV6 and SDV6 engines up to 2016

indeed urs won’t be adblue nor euro 6 until MY16

many take out a warranty, just need to read the small print to ensure it covers everything because if the engine lets go ur looking at a 6-7k bill
 
CRS said:
for some reason I thought the Discovery Engine was not subject to the crank issues.
Click to expand...

Yes, the TDV6 suffers crank failure.
It's best to avoid the engine altogether, as it's a bad design with many issues contributing to it. It could be a badly made crankshaft, oil pump not supplying enough pressure, bearings too tight, bearings too loose, infrequent oil changes, too much throttle used at low RPM, or a combination of all those.
The D3/4 is a vehicle which high maintenance requirements and a thirst for spare parts, some small, some engine sized!! Most will empty your wallet however.
 
Thanks for all the advice, just taking a moment to decide now, could be a calculated risk, you do see a lot of them about, I wonder what the percentage engine terminal rate is.
 
CRS said:
Thanks for all the advice, just taking a moment to decide now, could be a calculated risk, you do see a lot of them about, I wonder what the percentage engine terminal rate is.
Click to expand...

According to the dreamers it is quite low, but every thread you see on a d4 engine failure is always so expensive to repair/replace the car gets scrapped, mainly I think as the owners have stretched themselves financially and have nothing left for the repair costs.
One guy on a lesser forum summed it up to me, where he said it was like driving around on a hand grenade with the pin pulled waiting for it to explode, he sold it!

Many many people in the mechanics game have heard of the issues, many are not even car mechanics and they have heard the stories.

Oval Autos in Kent have made a reputation for repairing them, but I think it got so busy they would not even strip the car to diagnose without a substantial deposit as I assumed once people got the quote they could then not afford the repair costs?
Most times 3.0 engine failure means the engine is dead, not dead as in a few quid repair, but dead as in scrap dead.
 
theres a few youtube videos on it. seems you can proactively replace the bearing caps as they can spin, cutting off the oil feed, though also seems cranks have also failed where the caps are intact, ie. haven't spun
 
lynall said:
According to the dreamers it is quite low, but every thread you see on a d4 engine failure is always so expensive to repair/replace the car gets scrapped, mainly I think as the owners have stretched themselves financially and have nothing left for the repair costs.
One guy on a lesser forum summed it up to me, where he said it was like driving around on a hand grenade with the pin pulled waiting for it to explode, he sold it!

Many many people in the mechanics game have heard of the issues, many are not even car mechanics and they have heard the stories.

Oval Autos in Kent have made a reputation for repairing them, but I think it got so busy they would not even strip the car to diagnose without a substantial deposit as I assumed once people got the quote they could then not afford the repair costs?
Most times 3.0 engine failure means the engine is dead, not dead as in a few quid repair, but dead as in scrap dead.
Click to expand...

Funny enough I looked up the various specs of different manufacturers that use the same engine vs the 3.0 SDV6 , seems apart from JLR they have a dramatically lower failure rate

also some with the LR engine remap them and must confess wonder if that’s just to much for them to cope with


DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs

177 kW (237 hp), 450 N•m (330 Ibf ft) - Citroën C5, Citroën C6, Peugeot 407, Peugeot 407 Coupé

177 kW (237 hp), 500 N•m (370 Ibfft) - Jaguar XF, Land Rover Discovery 4, Range Rover Sport

187 kW (251 hp), 600 N•m (440 Ibf ft) - Land Rover Discovery 4, Range Rover Sport

202 kW (271 hp), 600 N•m (440 Ibf ft) - Jaguar XF, Jaguar XJ, Range Rover
 
kermit_rr said:
Would it be fair to say, if you want to help the engine, new bearing caps and remap for less power?
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does seen strange that the worse one for failures is the JLR engines , when they do many get a second hand jag engine , swapping over the ancillaries etc and are fine thereafter

also of course the oil pump issue that has the weaker casing

personally regarding the remap I’ve never been tempted as for such a heavy motor it doesn’t hang about if u put ur foot down , will sit on the motorway at 70mph all day long, doing around 2,000 revs , so hardly being pushed , returning around 30 Mpg

makes me laugh when people buy a RRS, remap the hell out of it, fitting the widest rubber band tyres and then thinking it’s a bloody sports car ;)

also still can’t get my head round when some say a remap gives u more mpg , yeh go figure, lol
 
gstuart said:
does seen strange that the worse one for failures is the JLR engines , when they do many get a second hand jag engine , swapping over the ancillaries etc and are fine thereafter

also of course the oil pump issue that has the weaker casing

personally regarding the remap I’ve never been tempted as for such a heavy motor it doesn’t hang about if u put ur foot down , will sit on the motorway at 70mph all day long, doing around 2,000 revs , so hardly being pushed , returning around 30 Mpg

makes me laugh when people buy a RRS, remap the hell out of it, fitting the widest rubber band tyres and then thinking it’s a bloody sports car ;)

also still can’t get my head round when some say a remap gives u more mpg , yeh go figure, lol
Click to expand...
I meant to remap to detune it, less power, less likely to damage the bearings and/or snap the crank
Factory maps are a compromise between performance, power and service interval. Remapping can give more power, usually at the expense of more frequent servicing requirements
 
kermit_rr said:
I meant to remap to detune it, less power, less likely to damage the bearings and/or snap the crank
Factory maps are a compromise between performance, power and service interval. Remapping can give more power, usually at the expense of more frequent servicing requirements
Click to expand...

apologises and see what u mean, must confess haven’t seen anyone do that , from what threads etc I’ve seen 99% will do a more power remap mainly for towing or some asking for economy but in reality I think if anyone asks what the mpg is there’s no point them owning a discovery seeing there as aerodynamic as a house brick, lol

Some of the things I’ve done to try and look after it the best I can is, on starting mine I’ve always allowed it to warm up a little bit and letting it idle for a minute before switching off to allow the turbo to spool down , changing the oil with good quality oils , filters every year even if I’ve just done 1,000 miles , blanked the egrs

in reality I often think what the best engines jlr have produced for reliability and seems the older the engine the better,
 
I can't find the link now but there was a YouTube video suggesting that the engine has so much torque that owners often start and drive off too quickly rather than a gentle warm up. They reckoned that high performance, lengthy service schedule, low oil pressure and a high mounted oil filter was a recipe for disaster unless treated with care. Advice was, any lengthy start up rattle, walk away quickly. Look for a carefully driven and frequently serviced example and enjoy it.
 
Kenbo said:
I can't find the link now but there was a YouTube video suggesting that the engine has so much torque that owners often start and drive off too quickly rather than a gentle warm up. They reckoned that high performance, lengthy service schedule, low oil pressure and a high mounted oil filter was a recipe for disaster unless treated with care. Advice was, any lengthy start up rattle, walk away quickly. Look for a carefully driven and frequently serviced example and enjoy it.
Click to expand...

hiya

we’re these the videos u was talking about

personally I wouldn’t ever run mine on 5-40 , however the changing of the oil pump to the upgraded one was one of the first things I done back in 2017







 
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