Start up rattle is nearly always the camchain tensioners worn.
Discovery 4 DPF
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Start up rattle is nearly always the camchain tensioners worn.
mine has a very slight rattle when it first starts up but only lasts around 2-3 seconds before it disappears
always reminds me of the old rover V8’s that had the hydraulic cam buckets
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my bmw did the same after an oil change
is that where the oil drains out of the cam buckets plse , sorry for the daft questions
Plus at the end of the day if I’m ever lucky enough to change mine to a V8 petrol , would be really nice for mind go to a nice home where it will carry on being looked after as god knows I’ve out a serious amount of hours into her , all that needs doing is the rear lower wishbone bushes and rear brake calliper pistons sticking ( so a new pair of new calliper’s )
did even consider given it away to my daughter but the insurance and upkeep would be a killer for her
Apologises I’m waffling again, lol
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it was the 2 litre N43B20 engine.. dunno what rattled, could have been the cam chain but assumed hydraulic lifters
it made a really bad noise while driving, but i did the typical 'drove til it went away or broked completely' attitude
That is the tensioners, they hold the chain in place with spring pressure, and when engine started the oil pressure takes over from the spring, so as the spring gets old/weak the rattle takes longer to go away.
I believe the 3.0 also suffers from hyd tappet failure, plus inlet manifold failure.
I dont think these days you can really find an engine that does not have some weak point or other.
Kenbo
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All manufacturers seem to have issues, my nephew bought a couple of small Ford's eighteen months ago, Focus and Fiesta. The Focus {56k miles) seized at Christmas, 4k miles since purchase from a Ford dealer. Because of the very low miles covered he hadn't considered the Annual service. This was the escape clause used by Ford to walk away. Car was recovered by the AA who call the 3 cylinder ecoboost engine the *ecobomb" They're recovering lots of them. Oil immersed belt drives the oil pump and vacuum pump for the brake servo; it shreds and blocks the oil pick up filter. He's tried to trade the other car, a Fiesta, and a couple of garages won't even quote.... says it all really.
You don't want to be buying any of their older powershift autos either mainly the larger cars. models apparently.
You don't want to be buying any of their older powershift autos either mainly the larger cars. models apparently.
many thks and indeed as u say many other engines have issues one way or another , personally think from feedback the 3.0 is worse than the 2.7 , with the twin turbo’s, plus as u say the inlet manifolds splitting , spinning shells and cranks
think the most reliable engine I ever had was my old petrol 2 1/4 in my safari, started every time without fail winter or summer
Think the later 3.0 sdv6 adblue models went back to one turbo, meant to be the best driving d4 there is.
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i'll be getting me 2.25 started very soon, i'm feeling confident even though its not run in probably a decade
Must confess I didn’t know that , assumed the SD was for sequential in relation to the twin turbos , but of course every day is a school day
Plus isn’t the 2016 keyless entry as well , also heard the inlet manifolds still split in the D4 , seems where one issue is resolved another comes along, lol
Before I forget see that some are reporting that when the DPF goes into regen it dilutes the engine oil leading to the shells spinning causing the crank to snap , of course beyond my pay grade with understanding all of it
The dpf thing is common on most vehicles with a dpf, cars ecu sees dpf needs come tlc so chucks it into regen, so into regen it goes and 5 minutes later the driver switches the car off, next start up and again car sees dpf needs regen so tries to regen, again owner gets where they are going and switches engine off, have this happen enough times and thats where the shagged/diluted engine oil comes from.
Not many vehicles tell the driver it is doing a regen.
Even happens on the trucks, and the diag computer even tells you three forced regens that fail means it need an engine oil change.
many thks and indeed wondered that in how the oil became diluted , makes a lot of sense when u explain it, very grateful to
Suppose in one sense don’t have to worry in N/A petrols with DPF/ EGR, turbos etc , however assume there are other things fitted to petrols that can also give u headaches, lol
thks again
Petrols are getting emissions kit, and i am sure they will get more as time marches on.
Some small petrols have turbos, they dont end to last well.
I used to own an Isuzu DMax, that had a gauge on it you could access and it would tell you how full the DPF was getting and when it was re generation, that would re gen around 150 miles and because you could see it was doing it you would make lots of re gen runs just to keep it clear, many times I got to where I was going only to drive further because it had started a re gen, the oil level would rise well before it’s service was due to diesel getting in there, Isuzu even put a higher mark on the dipstick that when the oil reached that you had to change it. DPF have and all ways will be a complete nuisance.
The first part is accurate.
The part about EVs being less reliable isn't necessarily accurate.
An EV has less moving parts, so the mechanicals will be more reliable.
The electronic side of things may be another story, but that issue isn't just confined EVs, as the electronics in modern ICE vehicles are equally unreliable.
However the reports from EV owners tend to suggest that they are more reliable that the ICE vehicles they replaced.
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Maybe we've reached a point where the spotty yoof designers and engineers understand ev more than traditional engines so they are able to design them properly
EGR is getting more common, and direct injection has been a thing for a while now.
Both these are having an effect on long term engine reliability, which will only get worse.
It seems that way.
Some manufacturers are also using electric motors connected to the crankshaft to boost engine power when needed (called a mild hybrid), which effectively gives a turbo type boost, only without the turbo.
Long term I don't know how reliable or useful these systems are, but they do have one benefit I can think of, which is to use energy from slowing down to charge the batteries, which can then be used to aid acceleration later on.
Whether it's worth the trouble long term, I guess time will tell.
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