tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Going out in a bit will reset and run live data, hailing at the moment fitting autobox in the dry
Discovery 3 Engine re-build
- Thread starter tyregeezer
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Went out yesterday running live date pressure jumped between 50-90 psi never more, code c1130-66 air spring air supply popped up still going to change compressor for a spare I have have seen new dmk improved apparently on evilbay £150, anyone bought one? front valve block arrived may order centre valve block too, back to that tomorrow. Auto box now on all buttoned up, moved the D3 back in the shop today ready to fit the engine over next few days, will take a week or so don't get so much time, also included a picture of the broken crank from my 06 (now a door stopper)
Attachments
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Fitted new balls and filters in the original compressor dryer refitted no faults suspension issues mostly done hopefully, cushion like suspension back pressure back to normal. earth on compressor was also crusty
Engine back in yesterday afternoon, all went ok basically poked the gearbox between tunnel and cross member catching if you like the box on my gearbox lift, then jiggling up and down slowly in until I can drop it onto the lefthand mount, the right hand mount bracket can then go in and be lowered onto the mount, gearbox leveled, sump on tomorrow, has a homemade blanking plate on at the moment, started up top as back was stiff this morning, fitted alternator, engine earth also given a good clean, also fitted coolant crossover tube and routed the wiring, also the coolant header and power steering, underneath tomorrow hopefully not much more than a day or so but do intend to drain the fuel tank
Engine back in yesterday afternoon, all went ok basically poked the gearbox between tunnel and cross member catching if you like the box on my gearbox lift, then jiggling up and down slowly in until I can drop it onto the lefthand mount, the right hand mount bracket can then go in and be lowered onto the mount, gearbox leveled, sump on tomorrow, has a homemade blanking plate on at the moment, started up top as back was stiff this morning, fitted alternator, engine earth also given a good clean, also fitted coolant crossover tube and routed the wiring, also the coolant header and power steering, underneath tomorrow hopefully not much more than a day or so but do intend to drain the fuel tank
Attachments
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Transfer box on, remembered to push fit the breather on top, wiring runs down lefthand top of gear/trans box then loops across top of trans and down the right side to the auxiliary heater pump and diesel filter, all seems ok, also another body earth to transfer box. Fitted props to trans box, exhaust then cross member auxiliary heater bolts to cross member. Up top fitted coolent pipes, gearbox oil cooler pipes power steering etc. then radiator, front panel and it's wiring, decided to keep this one so cleaning and painting the chassis as I go through it, before fitting exhaust at this point using a high zinc rust stop paint, after cleaning with various flap wheels and brushes no rot just surface patches hopefully finishing over next day or so
Attachments
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Yes thanks mate it's been looking underneath made me decide maybe to keep no rot few patches of rust but best I've seen, spent its life as a Chelsea tractor as new inside still has leather smell, sump to fit wiring plugs, and a few air pipes and can be fired up, still having a problem with 07 suspension wise, changed compressor now new issues going to switch air springs on this one and use new dunlops, valves and possibly compressor on mine see what happens fitting new front valve block today before fitting bumper, also need discs and pads so looking at brake options, slowing down a bit today as very stiff, have a minor electrical issue will pick your brains later Happy easter
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Fitted new front valve block today and zinc painted all exposed chassis on drivers side, started cleaning n/s of light surface rust removed both front air springs, fitting on 07, also removed the compressor, replaced the dryer beads and filters and fitted to my 07, was a leak from the compressor itself somewhere, will see how it goes, if ok will buy new one for 09. No need to remove wheel liners when pulling motor no need to do anything o/s only thing I do under n/s is remove the three heat shields, engine mounting nut and you can get to two of the exhaust front pipe nuts, easier if you back off the top front arm nut and tap the bolt back a little, everything else can be done from above or below, no need to touch crossover pipe or bell housing or anything down the sides of engine apart from alternator and engine earth which is quite accessible, hoping to get it out of workshop and jaguar in at weekend
Attachments
Likewise my friend in having to change many items on the suspension but mainly due to neglect from previous users
In the end replaced , compressor , front Dunlop struts , air tank, 3 x valve blocks along with replacing all the Voss with pushfit connectors, also treated the chassis with dinitrol whilst the front struts were out
Funny enough also just replaced all my brakes , fitted ceramic pads to see what there like, so far so good, plus really impressed of how well these chassis are holding up considering there nearly 20 x years old, only places I’ve seen rust on others are behind the rear wheel arch liners, rear chassis crossmember hole where the prop passes through and sills , this seems to be due to steps being fitted in becoming water traps
Hope all goes to plan mate as really looking good , thks again for sharing
Attachments
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Hi mate just got in from work landrover seems ok no gongs or lights that's a start, gallery pressure about 70psi at tick over but fluctuation up and down, not sure but seems too quick to be possible suspect centre valve block, ordered one today, although it didn't seem to drop while at work but yes I do suspect I am going to go through the whole system, and yes your right lack of maintenance, the biggest problem with D3, didn't work at all when I first bought it, leaks every where so getting there lol, brakes not really decided, but thanks for the food for thought. Have been thinking about the petrol conversion? Rust is mainly in the wheel areas and floor at rear but cleans up well so worth doing can't do sensor areas as will break, when I do the arms will touch up hard to reach areas, finishing bits and Bob's over next few days waiting for 10w 30 to turn up, basically few suspension parts, exhaust when painting is finished and battery area to finish, all the best mate
Sounds like ur keeping urself busy , lol
Enclosed a data sheet for u in case u haven’t got one ref what the pressures should be , Indeed drops down to gallery residual pressure of around 50 psi and 258 Psi for its approx max pressure
Found it easier after making up some test kits and some vacuum gauges, isolating valves and shrieder to 6mm test points that would then easily accept air from a compressor , allowed me to then test eaxh circuit in turn
Even after I attempted to rebuild the valve blocks I vacuum tested them but alas still failed, so was forced to fit new ones
Hope the rest is plain sailing my friend as know it can be frustrating at times but so well worth it considering these are such nice motors
All the best and look forward seeing the progress
Attachments
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Thanks mate quietly confident compressor sorted, its date code is 2013 also the new dryer balls had a larger diameter?, will run live data again after fitting valve block, just have a gut feeling, funny thing this morning it's sitting level? noticed this last night too, your paint looks great would guess your chassis is in about the same condition as mine hope mine turns out as good will see how it goes, have to leave the back end for now as it sticks out in the rain Lol tidy up morning, at the can't find anything stage many thanks for data sheet something else for my black folder
Attachments
Ur so welcome and great your making progress , indeed the longest part was ensuring any loose paint etc on the chassis was cleaned off, along with jet washing , steam cleaned inside snd out of the chassis ans underbody and allowed to dry over several days
Following with great interest as u tick off problems along the way , fingers crossed the rest are straight forward
All the best mate
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Getting there don't have good finish like yours have brushed it on quite thick, prep is always the longest bit and every piece of dirt seems to find it's way into my eyes even with goggles Lol
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Thanks mate much appreciated
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Hooray it runs, but has a couple of issues to work through, steering stiff but pump turning will have a look over next day or so, but getting a few codes v0416-94. V0421-94. C1a32-01 and last but not least V0416-86 all communication issues any one have a starting point? Going to check abs plugs among others tonight haven't fitted lights or bumper will do that too later
Attachments
For the steering, check the UJ on the lower shaft, they can sieze - don't replace with a chinesium one, the rubber 'doughnut' is too soft! The 'U' codes (not 'V') will be consequential to the C1A32-01 which is an air suspension code from memory, I'll try & look into it a bit more over the next couple of days.
Edit: Did you connect the front air suspension valve on the metal crash bar? might be worth checking, along with the harness to it hasn't been trapped...
Edit: Did you connect the front air suspension valve on the metal crash bar? might be worth checking, along with the harness to it hasn't been trapped...
tyregeezer
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 738
- Location
- Rural Norfolk
Yes their all basically communication codes will work through plugs and the obvious first, yes front valve connected, going to switch it out as still accessible nothing seems trapped so far, one strange thing since last post would like to ask you about if I may, strange light constant ticking sound coming from rear l/h height sensor although no fault code have disconnected battery overnight will check it out tomorrow many thanks
Similar threads
