Discovery 2, Changing the door lock actuators

Unlike the Disco 1, with the D2 you cannot just change the springs for pocket money. You need to shell out £70 odd quid a side for a whole door lock mechanisim to replace them!

I lived with the drivers door not unlocking with the fob for a year or so, but when the passenger door gave up that was the final straw!

Here's how to change them:
This write up is based on a drivers (key entry) side

Part numbers for the front doors are:
FJQ 102880 - driver
FJQ 102890 - passenger

Tools:
13mm Socket
10mm Socket
7mm Socket
T40 Torxs bit
T25 Torxs bit
Stanley Knife
Screwdrivers
Nose Pliers
Gaffer Tape

Time: 1 - 1.5 hrs

First remove the door card, by undoing the screws and prising it off gently and lifting out the window trim, then remove the wing mirror.

Then slice though the plastic with a knife to give you access to the inner door and in the top corner under the mirror to reveal a bolt head.





You will also need to open up the plastic for the retaining screw (drivers side only)



Now unclip the locking button from the green clip and remove it



Now the release cable for the internal door handle



Then undo the white plastic retainer clip from the exterior handle rod, (hold some pliers on the tab, then slide a flatblade scredriver into it and the cover will pop off.)




Now move onto the window frame.

Locate the bolts at the bottom of the window runners and remove them



Remove the T40torxs bolt on the slam side and the hindge side and the 13mm hex from under the plastic.





Lift the window frame up enough to get the wing mirror connector out from the hole.



Then lift the frame up higher (4-6") and chock it with something.



(For Drivers side replacement only)Next remove the exterior door handle by removing the single T25torxs bolt, then pushing the whole handle assembly towards the front of the car, it only needs to move a few mm then it will pop out.




now remove the three T25torx from the slam side (and the retaining screw, drivers side only)




you should now be able to drop the lock out, undo the electrical connector on the way.



Retain the white clip for the new mechanisim



Fit new lock as a reversal of these steps, take time to open and shut the door when refitting the frame to make sure you've got it aligned properly, adjustments are made at the two 10mm bolts at the bottom of the window runners. Remember to tape up your plastic before fitting the door card.



Job done, enjoy a working lock!

Brilliant write up. Just a few weeks late for me. I changed my drivers door lock using other instructions I got off the web, that didn't include raising the door frame. I had to use quite a bit of force to bend the lower door frame out of the way to get the lock out. I didn't realise that this was actually the window glass runner (stupid, I know). Now my window doesn't raise and lower as well as it did :doh:

Edited to add: I wonder if there is any adjustment in the bolts that hold the lower frame?

Maybe not. The glass just slows down and sticks a bit when half way up or down. Only noticed in the McD's drive through.

yes Andy, there is adjustment there, but once you get to the frame lifted bit, you can withdraw the whole frame up out of the door, you could extract the frame and persuade it back into shape!

Hi battenberg - I have just replaced my drivers door lock following your excellent instructions and photos but now I have a problem...

The door locked and unlocked fine after replacement and opened and closed until all of a sudden the door would not open! Neither the outside handle nor the inside handle will open the door. The locking mechanism seems to click lock and unlock and the locking button pops up but the door will not open. The key in the lock makes no difference and the door it behaves as though it is locked.

The last time the door was closed it needed a very firm push to close it and now it is stuck closed. The door card is not on and tapping the lock does nothing.

Any ideas?

p.s. I have also tried to pushing the door when locking and unlocking to take any pressure off the lock mechanism.

Well after much head scratching - trying again all possibilities of locking / unlocking with remote / keys, disconnecting the battery for a while, I decided to disconnect the dc connector going into the door lock itself (fortunately I had not put back the door card) and amazingly this worked and the door would open!

I presume either the door lock or the central control unit had got its nickers in a twist and this door lock got stuck in deadlock mode.

So if this happens to anyone else and the door card is fitted then try disconnecting at the BCU central control which I believe is at the rear behind one of the side panels. You will need to work out which cable does the door in question.

darmitst said:

Well after much head scratching - trying again all possibilities of locking / unlocking with remote / keys, disconnecting the battery for a while, I decided to disconnect the dc connector going into the door lock itself (fortunately I had not put back the door card) and amazingly this worked and the door would open!

I presume either the door lock or the central control unit had got its nickers in a twist and this door lock got stuck in deadlock mode.

So if this happens to anyone else and the door card is fitted then try disconnecting at the BCU central control which I believe is at the rear behind one of the side panels. You will need to work out which cable does the door in question.

Click to expand...

Well I just tackled this and went ver smoothly... however when lowering window regulator the dang "auto window down" started and I could not cancel switch and it bend the regulator arm for window( fortunately already unscrewed) ... anyway, I ended up having to remove that also, replace the little roller on track and straiten out the window regulator... works great now

Hi Guys, thanks for all the useful info and photos. Just replaced the door catch and rods on my 3000 Xs TDi. It was the usual broken spring problem that I wasn't aware of before I secured a 2nd hand replacement from a scrap yard. I understand the spring cannot be replaced. In the meantime I found the service book below that had a useful diagram.

Thanks again for a useful forum.

http://www.landroverresource.com/docs/D1_Workshop_Manual.pdf

Guys, thank you for all the useful information above. For sometime now the front and rear nearside doors on my disco 2 won't open with the key fob or the c/l switch in the cabin. I was reluctant to shell out £60 on a new door lock, just in case it that was not the problem. One question - do I have to lift the window frame on the passenger side?

garbett said:

Guys, thank you for all the useful information above. For sometime now the front and rear nearside doors on my disco 2 won't open with the key fob or the c/l switch in the cabin. I was reluctant to shell out £60 on a new door lock, just in case it that was not the problem. One question - do I have to lift the window frame on the passenger side?

Click to expand...

Yes,its a mirror image of the drivers side

Not had to do this yet but why can't you replace the spring?

HenryD said:

Yes,its a mirror image of the drivers side

Click to expand...

Thanks for this info.
Changed the door lock yesterday and decided to take the drop glass out completely, made it much simpler.
Only took me a couple of hours, which I didn't think was too bad for my first attempt.
The down side to all this is the electric window decided to start sticking on the way down and then the part of the regulator that the motor operates decided to snap off - judging from the attempted spot weld already on it I think someone had reparied this before.
Ended up pop riveting it back on and modifying the regulator a little bit (grinders are a wonderful tool) and it seems to be ok.
At least I know what to expect now when I do the nearside rear lock.
Many Thanks!

Just followed the excellent method given by Battenburg, just one thing to add, when sliding the frame back into the door, make sure the electric loom for the wing mirror is behind the window slide. When I did it, it wasn't and the window wouldn't open fully, I was lucky it didn't damage the wiring.

Nigel1943 said:

Not had to do this yet but why can't you replace the spring?

Click to expand...

What spring would that be

Thanks Battenburg for the detailed walk-through! I replaced my drivers side lock today as it was not opening consistently. The job took me about 4 hours due to finding some nasty work someone else had done prior to my ownership. First issue was 3 missing screws from the door card, one on the inside handle and two on the cubby at the bottom. There were also 5 broken plastic trim connectors. Most of the plastic on the door was missing and the rest was ripped up and basically a complete mess. The T40 bolt on the slam side was missing from the window retainer, and the other side was completely rounded, they had crudely cut a line to get a flat head screwdriver in, then deemed it ok to go back that way!

I replaced all missing screws and renewed the bolts and got a thick plastic dustsheet and cut a whole new protective cover for the door and used aluminium tape around the wire cut outs.

It is now all as good as new and the door lock works perfectly.

Hi guys.
My disco 2 key turns in the external keyhole in the drivers door but doesn't do anything and no resistance or noise. will it be in the door lock or the main latch?

Hi, does anyone know where I can get a couple of those green clips from (Post 1 Pic 4), I managed to break one and lost the other when I was trying to effect a repair on my doors.
I don't have £70 to shell out on a new lock set.

To avoid any unexpected window movement when doing this job would it be ok to disconnect the battery?

waterboatman said:

To avoid any unexpected window movement when doing this job would it be ok to disconnect the battery?

Click to expand...

Why not, u may loose the use of the head unit until the code is re-entered, that's if it's coded that is.
Or u could unplug the motor or remove the fuse.. or just don't turn on the ignition switch and press the windows switch.

Great write up, job I am not looking forward too. Ridiculously obscure for just swapping over a part!

I need do my rear drivers side door any help any one