Discovery 2, Changing the door lock actuators

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JordanTD5 said:
There's no need for that. If you can tell one end of a screw driver from the other, you can do this.

Follow this guide for a rear door:

Click me
Click to expand...

Good link mate thanks
I will do mine when it stips being wet windy and cold outside. With it being a rear door it doesnt get used much.

Also whilst its off i may respary the speaker cover on the door card as its gone all flaky and rusty
 
I suppose so, and it's already broken so no harm in having a go is there. Might have a noses tomorrow if the weather holds off! Cheers for the link!
 
I did the nearside a couple of years ago and really struggled with that white plastic clip that holds the actuating rod to the lock lever. I've just done the driver's door this morning (many thanks to the method posted here and elsewhere) and again was really struggling with the clip - and have the skinned knuckles to prove it. The problem is I can't see the clip and as it's not something I do all the time (hopefully never again!) I can't remember exactly how to release it, which you're supposed to do while the whole thing's in the door.

As it's the driver's door I had to take the external handle off as well and discovered that (with the actuator fixing bolts all off) I could unclip the top of the rod from the handle fairly easily with the handle pulled away from the door, leaving the white clip attached. It's then a simple matter to take the whole actuator out complete with rod and undo the lower clip on the bench (where it becomes blindingly obvious how it works).

I put the top of the rod back into the handle before reassembling it as it's much easier to close the clip than it is to release it.

Hoping this may help someone - I assume it would also work for passenger door but of course there's (normally) no need to remove the external handle.
 
Did this today both driver and passenger sides. Thanks for the guide. Per the above post, it is easier to undo the clip where the metal rod connects to the door Handle. The retaining clip rotates off the rod and then you can pull the rod end out of the handle. A small screw driver can be used to move the clip off the rod. Easier than the lower clip.

Managed to buffer up the electric window mechanism on the passenger side - €200 down the toilet because I was rushing....
 
Sorry for the thread resurrection but I've just done mine. All went well except the bar that connects the lock barrel to the lock mechanism snapped. Anyone know if you can buy just the bar and replace it or am I gonna either have to repair it or replace the whole lock?
 
iAndy said:
Sorry for the thread resurrection but I've just done mine. All went well except the bar that connects the lock barrel to the lock mechanism snapped. Anyone know if you can buy just the bar and replace it or am I gonna either have to repair it or replace the whole lock?
Click to expand...

Look in the spares section someone may be breaking a D2...
 
Great write up. Many thanks. I did this successfully at the weekend only the 2nd hand latch I fitted has the same symptoms as the original :-(
A question I should have asked first is what are the typical symptoms. My passenger door suddenly stopped unlocking with both the remote and the dashboard switch however it does lock with both and when I drive off. My local independent landy specialist RCV in East Peckham, Kent advised me it was the lock but I'm now wondering if it's more likely to be the wiring or some control unit. Any ideas grateful received.
BTW I couldn't figure out how to remove the external handle rod. It wasn't helped that the replacement had the rod attached but this one had a different black attachment. I eventually discovered that by rotating the latch 90 degrees so the elongated gold fitting is at 90 degrees to the rod the white plastic connector pops out quite easily and refitting was dead easy.
Thanks for any help and thanks again for a great write up.
Brian
 
Given the hassle of fitting, I'd go for new every time. Even the best used one is getting on for 10 years old.
 
Great write up - really helped me !

One little gotcha - when you lift the window frame up to get the lock out / in it is easy for the wiring loom at the front where it goes to the wing mirror to end up on the other side of the window frame as its drawn out and re-inserted.

Then you think the job is finshed and all back together only to find the window won't go all the way down. :)

So reach in and make sure that the part of the wiring loom that goes to the wing mirror passes behind the window frame (from the point of view of looking into the door from the side with the door car removed)
 
Good set of pics and info ...however I have heard that the actuator can be carefully broken open to get at the guts to fix / replace a faulty bit..... has anyone a photo of which area of the plastic to attack and pop open and or the unit opened ? Once in I am pretty good at fettling and rebuilding but the cracking open is the "unknown" so any info greatly appreciated .
 
Epsomgreen said:
Good set of pics and info ...however I have heard that the actuator can be carefully broken open to get at the guts to fix / replace a faulty bit..... has anyone a photo of which area of the plastic to attack and pop open and or the unit opened ? Once in I am pretty good at fettling and rebuilding but the cracking open is the "unknown" so any info greatly appreciated .
Click to expand...

Having just replaced the latches in both the rear nearside door and the drivers door last week, I'm not above repairing faulty devices but I can see one problem with "fettling" about with the unserviceable latch; what to do when you discover that having removed and stripped the latch it's beyond repair.
I'm in the position of not having a secure place to leave an unlocked vehicle, so leaving one with the doors held closed with a bit of gaffer tape and a bin bag instead of a window isn't a particularly sound proposition. The only option is to buy in the replacement parts before commencing the job. In that case why bother with trying to fix the faulty unit once it's been replaced with a new unit?
 
Thanks Brian, I completely agree it's not possible to leave a car open but my ask is based on the fact that I have already replaced the rear passenger door actuator and with success which means I have a faulty actuator spare to "fettle about with and have come across a couple of pics of one "cracked" open and apparently Maplins do a solenoid that fits if that is the duff part, also a search revealed that a spring is a common fault as well. The solenoid is around £6 and the spring is only a quid or so... therefore my thought is to have a go and if I succeed I have a good spare for a few quid.. and saleable too, far better than £70 for a new one or a dubious working one for around £25-30 on various auction sites. If I fail I reckon it's money well spent just for the "crack" so to speak. I will post the pics asap for anyone who might want a go too. I have to re-route them via photo bucket I think. But I'll try a copy ' n ' paste just for the heck. if no luck the bucket pics will follow.
act....JPG
act..JPG
 
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