Discovery 1 V8 Cummins 6BT Conversion
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Zed.
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as someone with a pair of 200tdi D1's & been looking at the 6bt's, I'm more than interested
Keep us posted
Rich. (following)
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Right I’ve taken quite a few pics along the way of what I’ve done so far.
This is my friends fault, had a conversation saying I’d love to put a 6bt in it etc but would be a fair bit of work. A week later he rings me saying he’s got a 6bt for me if I want it!
So now I had to do it really.
First off pulled the V8 out
Still has my Heath Robinson block tester on, was enough to show the problem though.
Next the gearbox and transfer box came out,
Followed by my underslung LPG tanks and the LPG kit from under the bonnet along with the coil and petrol related stuff.
Now the measuring began, and it soon became clear something had to give as the Cummins was too long to fit between the bulkhead and front chassis crossmember.
So faced with the choice of modifying the bulkhead or the chassis, I chose the chassis.
Mainly because the heater box in the disco is a big thing and I know there’s a rather large wiring loom there to so buying some room there would have been challenging.
I also cut out the bonnet slam panel as my engine crane wouldn’t lift the Cummins that high! I will make this a boltable panel when I refit it.
Removed the front bumper to make it easier also.
This is the section of chassis I removed, I did take measurements before any cutting commenced to make sure I kept the chassis square and true.
After offering the engine in place it was obvious the transmission tunnel was a touch on the narrow side so removed the air assist clutch slave off the Cummins box and also cut off the mounts from the gearbox.
They won’t be used and in my opinion don’t add any strength to the bell housing, well not that will affect it adversely in this application.
I also had make a small clearance in the tunnel for the side the starter bolts into the bell housing, I gently massaged it with a large hammer as cutting it out and building a box would have caused a step by the clutch pedal which I didn't want.
This is my friends fault, had a conversation saying I’d love to put a 6bt in it etc but would be a fair bit of work. A week later he rings me saying he’s got a 6bt for me if I want it!
So now I had to do it really.
First off pulled the V8 out
Still has my Heath Robinson block tester on, was enough to show the problem though.
Next the gearbox and transfer box came out,
Followed by my underslung LPG tanks and the LPG kit from under the bonnet along with the coil and petrol related stuff.
Now the measuring began, and it soon became clear something had to give as the Cummins was too long to fit between the bulkhead and front chassis crossmember.
So faced with the choice of modifying the bulkhead or the chassis, I chose the chassis.
Mainly because the heater box in the disco is a big thing and I know there’s a rather large wiring loom there to so buying some room there would have been challenging.
I also cut out the bonnet slam panel as my engine crane wouldn’t lift the Cummins that high! I will make this a boltable panel when I refit it.
Removed the front bumper to make it easier also.
This is the section of chassis I removed, I did take measurements before any cutting commenced to make sure I kept the chassis square and true.
After offering the engine in place it was obvious the transmission tunnel was a touch on the narrow side so removed the air assist clutch slave off the Cummins box and also cut off the mounts from the gearbox.
They won’t be used and in my opinion don’t add any strength to the bell housing, well not that will affect it adversely in this application.
I also had make a small clearance in the tunnel for the side the starter bolts into the bell housing, I gently massaged it with a large hammer as cutting it out and building a box would have caused a step by the clutch pedal which I didn't want.
Zed.
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I need a friend like that............................
as to clearance, I did consider a small body-lift would allow more gearbox - tunnel clearance
Rich.
So after a mock up in place, clearance between the axle and sump was a concern, I have turned the sump round from its original position so the large part of the pan is at the rear.
managed to get the correct replacement oil pickup pipe from China for £30 once I’d found the Cummins part number
So the only real way to sort this in my eyes was a body lift, which would then allow me to lift the engine up higher in the chassis and gain 3” more axle to sump clearance.
So cue the body lift
Before
After
Of course brake lines, steering shaft, fuel filler etc have to be extended.
Once I’d done this and was happy with the height of the engine I plasma cut some plates to bolt on the engine to make the engine mounts.
Had to cut the original chassis mounts off and move them 75mm forward to come closer to the center of the mount holes on the Cummins.
Tacked them up in place then removed for full welding.
Cut a fresh piece of 100x100 5mm wall box section for a new front crossmember in the chassis and tacked in place to check clearance for the bottom pulley.
I then took the engine back out to start measuring up the flange for the transfer box gearbox adapter so I could draw it up in cad.
Then finished welding the section in and capped off the ends of the old cut and painted and shutzed it.
So that’s pretty much where I’m at currently with the car although I changed the pedal box tonight as It was an auto previous and changing to manual using the daf gearbox.
Nearly got the drawing for the adapter plate between gearbox and transfer box correct will post some pics when I’ve got it right.
managed to get the correct replacement oil pickup pipe from China for £30 once I’d found the Cummins part number
So the only real way to sort this in my eyes was a body lift, which would then allow me to lift the engine up higher in the chassis and gain 3” more axle to sump clearance.
So cue the body lift
Before
After
Of course brake lines, steering shaft, fuel filler etc have to be extended.
Once I’d done this and was happy with the height of the engine I plasma cut some plates to bolt on the engine to make the engine mounts.
Had to cut the original chassis mounts off and move them 75mm forward to come closer to the center of the mount holes on the Cummins.
Tacked them up in place then removed for full welding.
Cut a fresh piece of 100x100 5mm wall box section for a new front crossmember in the chassis and tacked in place to check clearance for the bottom pulley.
I then took the engine back out to start measuring up the flange for the transfer box gearbox adapter so I could draw it up in cad.
Then finished welding the section in and capped off the ends of the old cut and painted and shutzed it.
So that’s pretty much where I’m at currently with the car although I changed the pedal box tonight as It was an auto previous and changing to manual using the daf gearbox.
Nearly got the drawing for the adapter plate between gearbox and transfer box correct will post some pics when I’ve got it right.
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Oh yes, love a bit of 6BT action and in a D1 no less, I was going to go about it the other way, leave the body low and fab up a new tunnel for the tranny but that works and it has saved a lot of work on the tunnel.
Ashcrofts make the right half shafts for it when you snap yours like twigs lol
@Hicap phill cheers for the tag, made my day this has
300bhp/ton
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I love projects like this. The Cummins is a cool engine. But can’t help thinking it’ll be dreadful in a relatively lightweight Land Rover off roader.
The 6BT weighs in at over 900lbs. Vs 318lbs for a Rover V8. That is a significant increase of weight up front. Hope you don’t plan on having the rear wheels on the ground on steed downhill descents
What gearbox are you planning on using? And are you replacing the axle? Stock Rover axles struggle with a Tdi let alone a 6BT.
Anyhow good luck with the project.
The 6BT weighs in at over 900lbs. Vs 318lbs for a Rover V8. That is a significant increase of weight up front. Hope you don’t plan on having the rear wheels on the ground on steed downhill descents
What gearbox are you planning on using? And are you replacing the axle? Stock Rover axles struggle with a Tdi let alone a 6BT.
Anyhow good luck with the project.
Henry_b
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I like the Cummins idea.
Gearbox?
Auto or manual?
Gearbox?
Auto or manual?
Gearbox I’m using is a manual and the one out of the Daf lorry a ZF-S5-42. This I’m close coupling to the LT230 transfer box.
The axles will no doubt be upgraded at a later date as I know at the minimum I’m going to snap halfshafts.
As far as Serious off roading I don’t do a huge amount, my main criteria was to be able to get round our farm and be able to tow a decent weight without struggle and reliably.
Remember towing 3 ton with the V8 and it was terrible, even pulling away from junctions was gutless.
I agree the engine is much heavier, I have extra heavy duty springs up front atm, if these aren’t up to the job I will change to air. One advantage of having an on board compressor on the engine
The axles will no doubt be upgraded at a later date as I know at the minimum I’m going to snap halfshafts.
As far as Serious off roading I don’t do a huge amount, my main criteria was to be able to get round our farm and be able to tow a decent weight without struggle and reliably.
Remember towing 3 ton with the V8 and it was terrible, even pulling away from junctions was gutless.
I agree the engine is much heavier, I have extra heavy duty springs up front atm, if these aren’t up to the job I will change to air. One advantage of having an on board compressor on the engine
300bhp/ton
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Not that it matters all that much, but remember as you are increasing the kerb weight of the vehicle, you are also reducing your payload and towing capability potentially. As you still have a maximum train weight the vehicle can support and some of that will be taken up with the heavier engine, gearbox and if you swap on bigger axles. Might be worth getting it to a weigh bridge when you are done.
I assume as you are using the Daf gearbox the engine is from a Daf truck also? Do you know what state of tune it is in and which injection pump it has?
I assume as you are using the Daf gearbox the engine is from a Daf truck also? Do you know what state of tune it is in and which injection pump it has?
I did think about train weight actually but that’s a bridge I’ll cross when I get there and I know what it actually weighs. I have access to a few weighbridges so will see when it’s done.
Yes the engine was from a DAF truck, it’s a 150bhp Ti with a Bosch VE rotary pump and a non wastegated hx35.
I know the inline pump is more desirable but I’m sure the VE will make more than enough power to lunch the drivetrain.
I am planning to replace the turbo for a wastegated version at some point too.
Yes the engine was from a DAF truck, it’s a 150bhp Ti with a Bosch VE rotary pump and a non wastegated hx35.
I know the inline pump is more desirable but I’m sure the VE will make more than enough power to lunch the drivetrain.
I am planning to replace the turbo for a wastegated version at some point too.
So I’ve made a little progress with the gearbox to transfer box adapter plate
On the third attempt managed to get a shape which worked to incorporate the gearbox mounting holes and also get the transfer box holes in the correct location.
On that drawing I only have the transfer box bolt holes as I will manually mark the gearbox ones to allow me to get the angle correct.
plasma cut the shape out of some thin galv sheet to test the alignment and that it worked.
Hopefully tomorrow evening at work I will cut the plate out of some 25mm thick steel and drill and tap the holes. Then I can measure up for machining the shaft to couple them together.
On the third attempt managed to get a shape which worked to incorporate the gearbox mounting holes and also get the transfer box holes in the correct location.
On that drawing I only have the transfer box bolt holes as I will manually mark the gearbox ones to allow me to get the angle correct.
plasma cut the shape out of some thin galv sheet to test the alignment and that it worked.
Hopefully tomorrow evening at work I will cut the plate out of some 25mm thick steel and drill and tap the holes. Then I can measure up for machining the shaft to couple them together.
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How did I miss this I have been looking at doing the same conversion but ive got loads to do before I can
consider starting another project so I will watch this come together
Nice job sir
I have been looking at doing the same conversion but ive got loads to do before I canconsider starting another project so I will watch this come together
Nice job sir
Been a while updating this, loads of things seemed to get in the way (including the wife’s horse lorry failing its test)
Finally had some time to push on a bit but with Christmas approaching not sure how much more I’ll get done this year!
So I gas cut the adapter plate out of 25mm steel and then drilled and tapped it, milled a pocket out the back too so it would sit flush on the daf box.
Then bolted to the DAF Gearbox
Then the LT230 bolted on
Next up was to sort the Input gear out.
Took the original Daf prop flange and cut as much off as I could with a 9” grinder first.
Then put it in the lathe and machined the rest off
Next up took the original LT230 input gear and machined off the bearing land and some of the splines out the middle.
I’ve now press fitted the machined down daf prop flange into the lt230 gear and welded with high tensile weld, I’ve now got to machine it back down to fit the bearing on, which I’m hoping to get done before Christmas but will see how I get on.
I have started tidying the engine up with some fresh paint, new filters and replaced the turbo feed and drain lines for braided, also started the engine just to check it’s all good it sounds awesome and runs like a champ!
Will update more as soon as I get more bits done
Finally had some time to push on a bit but with Christmas approaching not sure how much more I’ll get done this year!
So I gas cut the adapter plate out of 25mm steel and then drilled and tapped it, milled a pocket out the back too so it would sit flush on the daf box.
Then bolted to the DAF Gearbox
Then the LT230 bolted on
Next up was to sort the Input gear out.
Took the original Daf prop flange and cut as much off as I could with a 9” grinder first.
Then put it in the lathe and machined the rest off
Next up took the original LT230 input gear and machined off the bearing land and some of the splines out the middle.
I’ve now press fitted the machined down daf prop flange into the lt230 gear and welded with high tensile weld, I’ve now got to machine it back down to fit the bearing on, which I’m hoping to get done before Christmas but will see how I get on.
I have started tidying the engine up with some fresh paint, new filters and replaced the turbo feed and drain lines for braided, also started the engine just to check it’s all good
it sounds awesome and runs like a champ!Will update more as soon as I get more bits done
