Discovery 1 clutch bleeding

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Christhevanman5

Christhevanman5

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Kent
Has anyone got any tips on bleeding the clutch on a discovery 1? . Have tried a power bleeder and the old fashioned way. The car goes into gear when it's not running but does not want to know when it's not. If u start the car in gear with the clutch down and your foot on the brake, as soon as you take your foot of the brake it moves and if u let the clutch up with foot on the brake it would stall.
 
Christhevanman5 said:
Has anyone got any tips on bleeding the clutch on a discovery 1? . Have tried a power bleeder and the old fashioned way. The car goes into gear when it's not running but does not want to know when it's not. If u start the car in gear with the clutch down and your foot on the brake, as soon as you take your foot of the brake it moves and if u let the clutch up with foot on the brake it would stall.
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Have you put your foot down on the pedal, while someone else is looking at the slave cylinder, to check if the slave pushrod is moving?
 
Christhevanman5 said:
Yes complete clutch including fork and bearing. I didn't see and adjusters on the push rod
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I doubt if there is one on the slave on that, there may be one on the master cylinder. Manual should have correct adjustment.

If it is a bleeding problem, I find a gravity fill and bleed at first, followed by a few pumps on the pedal, with an assistant closing the nipple on the slave after each down stroke, works well.
 
I have totally bled the system through 2 bottles worth and there is definitely no air in it but still no clutch. I didn't fit the clutch fork my father inlaw did. Could it be a case of the fork being fitted slightly wrong and its not moving quite enough?
 
Has anyone yet actuated the clutch pedal while someone underneath looked for movement?
At the end of the day. there needs to be movement at the slave cylinder before anything can happen. But the clutch fork needs to be securely engaged in its fulcrum, it must act properly on the thrust bearing which must also move the pressure plate far enough to release the clutch.
I have reassembled a clutch where the end of the fork was not accurately positioned and had to disassemble the whole thing. So I know how sickening it can be!
The end of the rod coming out of the slave needs to be seen to be moving the end of the fork.
 
No not yet. I put the old slave back in earlier as I thought that might be the issue and the push rod is still in the fork I moved it and you can hear the fork moving.
 
Christhevanman5 said:
No not yet. I put the old slave back in earlier as I thought that might be the issue and the push rod is still in the fork I moved it and you can hear the fork moving.
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The clutchplate only has to move a tiny fraction to disengage the clutch, have you tried moving the fork with a crowbar or summat to see if the clutch actually is releasing? Moving the fork and release bearing up to the clutchplate is one thing, exerting enough force on the plate to release it is another.
I feel your pain, I have been experiencing a similar problem with a pull clutch on a semi-auto Beetle-based special, and so far we have had the clutch relined twice to different dimensions. But still it won't release. :(:(:(:(
 
No I haven't done that. Don't think I am really going to know whats going on without taking the box out again and I didn't want to do that again. I thought it would only take a day to do it and this was my 4th try at trying to sort the bloody thing out
 
Christhevanman5 said:
No I haven't done that. Don't think I am really going to know whats going on without taking the box out again and I didn't want to do that again. I thought it would only take a day to do it and this was my 4th try at trying to sort the bloody thing out
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Chris, taking a box off is such a pain I would really try to make sure the problem is not elsewhere before doing that. If your pa in law is handy, why not get him to push on the clutch while you watch from underneath.
If you do the "bar on the clutch fork" thing you should be able to isolate the problem to "in the bellhousing" or not.
 
Christhevanman5 said:
No I haven't done that. Don't think I am really going to know whats going on without taking the box out again and I didn't want to do that again. I thought it would only take a day to do it and this was my 4th try at trying to sort the bloody thing out
Click to expand...
Did you align the clutch plate properly before replacing the box?

If the plate has been bent slightly during re-assembly, it may never disengage fully. Sometimes, they begin to disengage more when the plate begins to wear.

it is still worth getting under the vehicle with a torch, and trying to see what is going on, while somebody else presses the pedal.
 
It wasn't me that aligned it. I'm sure it would of been done properly as he has done loads. I'm not sure I'm going to see much when someone presses the clutch
 
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