Disco TD5 Starting perfect, but cutting out when reved

Hi Landyzoners,

I have a 2004 Disco TD5. A few weeks ago she refused to start. Turning over fine but no fire. I have replaced the injector seals and washers, the fuel pump, filter, one way valve and the air bleed valve. All genuine LR parts. We also blew out the fuel lines and checked the filter atthe back of the FPR. She's is starting now at the slightest touch of the key. However when I try to rev it, she gets to about 1000rpm and cuts out. I have also replaced the CPK. I can't help but feel that I have an electrical problem. I am getting codes on the Hawkeye like injector peak charge and pre-injection top switch fail. I am not too sure if it that is because of it cutting out. There is also a great write up here detailing broken wires on the ACE line onthe engine loom, I have checked this and the loom casing is intact. If my FPR had failed could this be a symptom?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Joe.

josephpobrien said:

Hi Landyzoners,

I have a 2004 Disco TD5. A few weeks ago she refused to start. Turning over fine but no fire. I have replaced the injector seals and washers, the fuel pump, filter, one way valve and the air bleed valve. All genuine LR parts. We also blew out the fuel lines and checked the filter atthe back of the FPR. She's is starting now at the slightest touch of the key. However when I try to rev it, she gets to about 1000rpm and cuts out. I have also replaced the CPK. I can't help but feel that I have an electrical problem. I am getting codes on the Hawkeye like injector peak charge and pre-injection top switch fail. I am not too sure if it that is because of it cutting out. There is also a great write up here detailing broken wires on the ACE line onthe engine loom, I have checked this and the loom casing is intact. If my FPR had failed could this be a symptom?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Joe.

Click to expand...

have you checked for oil in the ECU plug?
also could be the throttle peddle

Could be your injector loom crapping out when you put load on it. Just replace it, they are cheap enough. Pull the red plug on the ecu and check the injector wires with a multimeter, between the red plug and the connector at the head. Also check for oil at the red plug as mentioned. Check the earth points next to the fuse box are clean and tight. Also look at the engine loom under the inlet manifold, it can sometimes rub on the Ace pipes and short out. Topside fault usually refers to the ecu being fried, however you may be lucky. Start your checks with the wiring to the injector which was showing the fault on diagnostics. The throttle if faulty will put on the engine light, so unless this is the case your problem is elsewhere.

Thanks for the replys. I should have mentioned the red ecu plug is as clean as the day it went in. I'll see if I can test the ecu plug to the injector harness today.

The top switch fail fault relates to large capacitors inside the ecu which are used to fire the injectors, i reckon you need to at least get the ecu tested & will probably need a replacement !

Evans Garage said:

The top switch fail fault relates to large capacitors inside the ecu which are used to fire the injectors, i reckon you need to at least get the ecu tested & will probably need a replacement !

Click to expand...

^^^ ++1 YES, IMO you need an other ECU ...but before that check the earth rail under the battery cover LH side toward the wheelarch where are 3 nuts... when a bad earth occures there the ECU will fail inside

Hi All Landyzoners,

Thank you for the replys.

Deciding to take the initative yesterday I decided to put a vicegrips on the return pipe to the fuel filter in the engine bay to rule out the FPR. She started fine but cut out again on revving. I was of the opnion the only luck I was having was bad luck. We then decided to put the jeep up on the lift again and put back in the origional CPK. When we had it up on the lift we realised that the diesel tank was dripping diesel - looking at the floor if the shed where she was parked the was now a small pool of diesel. We then made up a simple pressure testing guage and pressure tested all the pipes except the return to the tank (as this would have no effect on the running of the vehicle)
To cut the rest of the tale out, there is a hole in the high pressure line feeding the engine. A combination of a possibly weaker pump to a new one, the hole in the pipe and injector washers/seals led to the girl not starting, and only the vice grips on the return pipe for a few secs forced enough diesel out to be noticeable. Blind luck I call it. We made up a temporary pipe and bypassed the pipe with the hole in it. She is starting perfect, revving fairly OK, topping out at 2800, engine light coming on and then cutting out. She might be doing this prior to the start of this saga as I would never even see 2500 rpm so I dont know. It could be that the temporary/makeshift pipe we made might have air in it (it's coming in the back door over the wheel arch at the moment so it has a high point in it that would be very hard to bleed) or even there is might be a small hole in another pipe some where.

I have a sneaking suspsion that the wastegate modulator isnt working - can anybody confirm this for me.....I have used the Hawkeye to test the wastegate modulator, i.e press and hold to pulse it, but I cannot hear the solenoid pulsing - I presume I should be able to?

I have ordered the pipes from LR in Enniskillin - TPToppings - these guys know their LR.

I was pricing parts in the south of ireland and I was told I could only be sold the filter housing as a whole to abtain the airbleed valve and non return valve/filter. This combined with the fact that there was a 4/5 day turn around on parts forced me to look further afield. I am able to order parts from TPToppings and they courior them to me for the next day.

I think that the DTC codes I was receiving was because the computer was getting a bit scrambled as she was dying essentially from diesel starvation.

To top it all off the story took another twist since we discovered this problem. I googled the fuel pipes on a TD5 and there was a recall on this very issue by landrover. According to LR Ireland, My discovery was done only a year ago........when my pipes arrive I will be documenting the existing pipe setup to see what has caused the hole as I cannot understand how the origional set of pipes lasted 7 years and the set installed under the recall only lasted a year!

This little experience has cost me over €1000 euro so far if I include the cost of a Hawkey and I havent even asked my mechanic what his bill will be yet.

I have quoted the text of the recall below:

Hopefully this issue even though it is well documented already won't catch anyone else and their wallet out. I'll post an image of the offending pipe when i get my hands on it and let ye know how my revs topping out issue gets sorted.


LAND ROVER announced a problem with the Discovery Series , Diesel TD5 affecting a total of 33,491 vehicles.

Rear fuel line may chafe with ABS/ Water sensor, and fuel pump harnesses with the possibility that a fuel leak may develop Vehicles built from 06/30/2001 to 04/19/2004 are at risk.

The following remedial action is necessary to address this problem. Remove original convolute tubing and replace with smooth PVC tape. Additionally, change fuel line, and re-route the wiring harness to run to the side of the fuel lines.

Vehicles with the following identification numbers are affected:

SALLTGM981A736101 to SALLTGM834A865281

Hi Sierrafery,

Thank for the suggestion by the way, I think I had seen a post in here from you previously about that and had cleaned and greased my earth connections on the basis of reading that.

Joe.