Disco Door springs How-to...

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Thanks for the original post, I only found it after doing the drivers spring today :( I did do it though without taking the glass out...
I undid all the rods as required and took the bolts out, this releases the lock itself but you can't get it out from behind the window channel. What I did here was take the bottom screw from the window runner and pulled it forward just enough to drop the lock to one of the apertures. This gave me just enough room to take the broken spring out and put the new one in.
Yes I did bend the window channel but by lowering the window a bit and then putting the screw back in it pulled the channel back into place with no ill effects. Not the best way but one that saved me alot of time !
Thanks again for the original post..

Stu
 
what have i done ,changed the spring on the front drivers door put it all back together, but when i reconnected the battery and pressed the remote all the buttons but the door i was working on went up and down about 4 times before stopping. and stopped open , so now i have to push all the buttons down and lock my door with the key ,been on about 4 hours today going to have another go tomorrow
 
sorted now one of the rods had come off ,will need to get a star washer i thinks to keep it on , it was coming off when i shut the door. it was the rod connected to the otherside of of the one thats connected to the servo.
 
Replaced the spring in my rear door last year, must say dont wanna do it again in a rush not difficult but getting the spring in was fidly and the lock barrel falling out didnt help (really dont attempt this in the dark); anyways my central locking packed in working on both back door and drivers side door last week. After plenty of WD40 on the drivers side, rebending of lock wire arms and tightening of screws and bolts on rear door all is good. Turns out that constant slamming of the rear door can knock the lock out of sink meaning the central locking jumps. Just an idea to try before you take the lot apart if you aint sure lol.
 
3 doors done - 2 to go ! Problem is I remember there was a spacer behind the central locking plate. Top two bolts have a bracket to fit inside door with captive nuts. does the spacer go on the bottom bolts or behind the 2 screws securing the lock motor to the plate?

thanks ( And i know I should have made a note of it - thought I would remember !)
 
if you find when the job is done on the drivers door that the locks keep opening and closing several times, its because the central locking motor thing is positioned to far back towards hinges : just loosen the plate and move slightly to the right - even a few mm can cause this. easily solved !
 
Thanks for this thread guys-did my rear n/s passenger door the other night-absolute breeze.Then went on to do tailgate-absolute bitch-ended up levering out and back in, lock mechanism with large screwdriver ,anyway changed springs and job is a goodun-had to make my own actuator rod out of coat hanger wire as mine was missing-even have the child lock working-not sure I could have done it without this thread-thanks
 
If there is any movement from the pin, then it could be a reason why the doors are not staying unlocked.

If the pin doesn't move at all, then it is either linkage or actuator problem.

Remove door panel to diagnose the fault!
 
ok first off i know this post is a few years old but its the rite post for what im trying to figure out rite now, so my doors need doing and from what i've seen being a disco thats no shock. well my question is simple. can this be done by creating a small working port (cutting a hole) in the inner door skin or would this just be a stupid plan. im willing to do it the rite way but looking to try save some time. all advice (and abuse if needed) is welcomed :D

Edit: went and took panels off to look at starting the job ignore my whole message i see now its clearly not an option lol.
 
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