- Posts
- 33,600
- Location
- North Shropshire
put on youtube and post the link
I have seen first hand a truck engine running with a broken crank, only clue was the knocking.I have changed the timingbelt.. and if the crankshaft was broken i would hear it upon cranking i would think?
New update... engine garbage.... metal in the oil filter...I have seen first hand a truck engine running with a broken crank, only clue was the knocking.
Have you tried a sniff of easy start?
Oh noNew update... engine garbage.... metal in the oil filter...
I kind of suspected that was the case, I think in the future a classic D3/4 will be a very rare thing indeed!New update... engine garbage.... metal in the oil filter...
Have you checked your filter?Oh no
I'm a bit scared to nowHave you checked your filter?
Let me know what/if you findI'm a bit scared to now
Yeah I'm half expecting mine to be shot too and I will then be in the same boat but I'm thinking fix the one I have or it'll happen again... I'm just waiting for some guages to accurately measure my fuel pressure which are coming tomorrow..Let me know what/if you find
Finally bought a low pressure fuel guage max is 10 psi so pretty accurate. I get 6.7 psi at the schrader valve. I also have a brand spanking battery under warranty with my parts people as they didn't care, but makes no difference to cranking or voltage drop really. Well on crank we are at 10.2v so marginally better but still sounds slow. Still have other tests to try but I'm thinking I need to physically check cam belt in its entirety.Did you ever measure the pressure? can you read the live values of LP & HP fuel when cranking? Sorry if you have, I've still got 'day job' diag going through my head - 2 x BEV's, 1 x hybrid & assorted other 'hmmmm....' jobs!
Checked the earth strap?Finally bought a low pressure fuel guage max is 10 psi so pretty accurate. I get 6.7 psi at the schrader valve. I also have a brand spanking battery under warranty with my parts people as they didn't care, but makes no difference to cranking or voltage drop really. Well on crank we are at 10.2v so marginally better but still sounds slow. Still have other tests to try but I'm thinking I need to physically check cam belt in its entirety.
Well I put a jump lead across to earth the engine and it made no difference to cranking. Tbh I've not done a lot to it the last couple of days. I need to check cambelt first hand next I think anyway as it died while driving so most of these other things don't seem massively relevant, although obviously everything does need to be ruled out. Weird creatures these tdv6'sChecked the earth strap?
I think I mentioned the cambelt a few pages back?Well I put a jump lead across to earth the engine and it made no difference to cranking. Tbh I've not done a lot to it the last couple of days. I need to check cambelt first hand next I think anyway as it died while driving so most of these other things don't seem massively relevant, although obviously everything does need to be ruled out. Weird creatures these tdv6's
Absolutely cambelt has been mentioned but time dictates what can be done and when. It is outside my workshop at the moment so not on the ramp. As soon as I get a chance it will go in on ramp so I have access to starter motor etc to check. I accept I may not be testing everything in the correct order but equally good to tick things off the list.I think I mentioned the cambelt a few pages back?
Great cars when they are good, money pit when they are not, 10 yrs out of mine so far, daily driver.
Sadly the cars are now worth so little, major repairs will write them off, unless the owner can diy.Absolutely cambelt has been mentioned but time dictates what can be done and when. It is outside my workshop at the moment so not on the ramp. As soon as I get a chance it will go in on ramp so I have access to starter motor etc to check. I accept I may not be testing everything in the correct order but equally good to tick things off the list.
I agree but I'm still niggled by the easy start thing .I doubt it'll be the timing out, possibly a starter with collapsed bush / bearing causing excess current draw (which wouldn't cause it to cut out) or a mechanical issue with the bottom end - have you tried turning by hand on the crank bolt? I can't remember.... if so, does it feel free? does it rock back when going on compression - or is it tight?
May be someone will come up with a cheap kit to change it to electricSadly the cars are now worth so little, major repairs will write them off, unless the owner can diy.
10 yrs max and a d3 will be as rare a sight as a 200tdi disco is nowadays.
Ha, and then I can paint it orange yeah , no thanks.May be someone will come up with a cheap kit to change it to electric
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!