No, just remove the 'Y' piece (lift it up and move to the side to release one of the 'arms' of the Y) then electrically connect it so it doesn't throw a DTC so you can do a manifold vacuum draw test one each side independently to see if there's a difference, but as you mentioned earlier that it cut out whilst driving with the previous owner, then it's probably not a relevant test as it'd still run on the other bank as mentioned earlier.
Disco 3 2.7 tdv6 wont start 😬
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charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Exactly. He said for me to message him if I get it sorted as he loved that truck and its really bugging him. I'm struggling to comprehend what part of the engine would do that apart from catastrophic failure or fuel.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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So out of curiosity what is your gut feeling as I also doubt that test will show anything, I also can't see it being glow plugs or anything majorly mechanical.... I will try the low pressure fuel test now with an old tyre guage as you suggested. I will also see what live data says about fuel pressures. Cheers
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Live data while cranking says fuel pressure is around 50,000 kpa
Which according to goggle is 500 bar, which is more than enough for starting.
The fact it wont even cough on easy start would have me concerned.
Have you checked the cambelt? not a big job to remove the fan and pop the belt cover off.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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I haven't properly checked it yet. I've checked drivers side cam runs smoothly through filler, therefore other cam on same bank is OK. Passenger cams turning as checked pump belt and all turning fine and tensioner in tact. What I have possibly just noticed is oil level is about 15mm higher than I think it should be. Its parked on a slope but stills seems high, although doesn't smell of diesel
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Yes the easy start thing is really bugging me as love it or hate it, it should at least do something unless some sort of catastrophic mechanical failure has happened. Previous owner is genuine and confirmed it just died on him.
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you've never seen it running?
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Nope, as I said, I bought it like this. Cheers
Dipsticks are pretty crap on them, need to stand for a good while on the flat to get an accurate reading.I haven't properly checked it yet. I've checked drivers side cam runs smoothly through filler, therefore other cam on same bank is OK. Passenger cams turning as checked pump belt and all turning fine and tensioner in tact. What I have possibly just noticed is oil level is about 15mm higher than I think it should be. Its parked on a slope but stills seems high, although doesn't smell of diesel
I would be checking cam timing, otherwise you are just on a wild goose chase.
They were famous for the oil pump casing cracking and allowing the cambelt to jump off, wrecking the engine, if you are lucky you might not have gone that far, but slipped timing might explain the nogo on easy start.
The camshaft caps can break when the oil pump fails, so the camshaft will still turn, which might explain you seeing the cams rotate.
Sadly starter needs to come off to get the timing tool in the starter motor mounting hole, not needed for simple belt change, but as you cannot be sure the timing is correct you will not have no choice.
Kits on ebay under 20 quid.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Yeah I've watched a video on timing and doesn't seem too bad if I put it on the ramp. But, my theory is if the oil pump had broken, then the idler would be off so a) would be rattling around down there and b) surely all the camshafts wouldn't be turning as timing belt would be very very loose...
I think if the timing belt tensioner had come adrift, the camshafts wouldn't be turning smoothly as the belt would be jumping around. You also mentioned the previous owner had someone pronounce the belt was 'good'. Next stage is to verify that the HP fuel pressure reading is correct (what does it read before cranking? 50MPa seems a bit high), if OK, then you need to check the injectors are switching. BE CAREFUL, these are Piezo injectors and work at high(er than 12V) voltages, also, disconnecting them with the ignition on or engine cranking can lead to problems of the expensive kind. If you're not confident or equipped to check injector voltage, I would suggest removing an injector, reconnecting to the fuel rail and harness (making sure it's pointing somewhere safe) and cranking the engine whilst observing the injector tip for output.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Yes I totally agree about cambelt. I'm not familiar with that type of injector so yes I could try your method. I'll check the live data and pressure again tomorrow. I can't post videos on here for some reason. Which is annoying. It says I don't have permissions.
I think you can link you videos hosted elsewhere but not directly upload due to storage requirements, that's how it works with most other sites anyway.
With an injector out, you'll also be able to approximate decent compression by the sound of air escaping from the injector port and the variance in cranking speed when the other cylinders are compressing.
Diesel compression testers are expensive so I wouldn't suggest buying one specifically, most tend to be used via the glow plug port anyway.
From what you've said & done so far, and with the caveat of 'not being there', I honestly don't think its a mechanical issue with the engine. Remember that every test or check you do that comes back OK, is one less possible cause, so although it may not seem like it, you are making progress.
With an injector out, you'll also be able to approximate decent compression by the sound of air escaping from the injector port and the variance in cranking speed when the other cylinders are compressing.
Diesel compression testers are expensive so I wouldn't suggest buying one specifically, most tend to be used via the glow plug port anyway.
From what you've said & done so far, and with the caveat of 'not being there', I honestly don't think its a mechanical issue with the engine. Remember that every test or check you do that comes back OK, is one less possible cause, so although it may not seem like it, you are making progress.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Compression testers are cheap enough (Chinese ones anyway) but as you say they screw into the glow plug hole. I may be able to fashion something mildy accurate with my petrol tester if it goes high enough, once the injector is out. So I am totally fine to remove, reconnect and crank once it's out of the engine? I presume I'm looking for a nice spray.
Passenger side rear inj is a pita to remove.Compression testers are cheap enough (Chinese ones anyway) but as you say they screw into the glow plug hole. I may be able to fashion something mildy accurate with my petrol tester if it goes high enough, once the injector is out. So I am totally fine to remove, reconnect and crank once it's out of the engine? I presume I'm looking for a nice spray.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Well 5 out of 6 would be ok
if 5 work then it should run .You should only need to take one out as it's 'common rail' - maybe one from each bank, the check is to see if the fuel pressure is physically (as opposed to measured by a sensor) high enough and the injectors are triggering properly so that there is a mist of fuel, with an approximation of compression - a petrol compression tester, assuming you could make an adapter would most likely self destruct under 40bar pressure. The one I have (that seems more reliable than the 'workshop' one) was the thick end of £500 with an injector port adapter kit, maybe see if you could borrow one?
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Wow ok, I was looking at about £30 ebay special and then make an adaptor. Ok well I'll start by taking out an injector tomorrow. My mate has just put a theory forward that exhaust or cat could be totally blocked, therefore not allowing gas to escape, therefore not allowing combustion.
Which is why I asked you to put a pressure / vacuum gauge on the inlet to see the suction (or pressure) created. If there was an exhaust issue, there would be an old DTC. In any case, you could just stuff some newspaper up the exhaust pipes, crank it and see if they blow out, it might take a few seconds as it's cranking not running speed.Wow ok, I was looking at about £30 ebay special and then make an adaptor. Ok well I'll start by taking out an injector tomorrow. My mate has just put a theory forward that exhaust or cat could be totally blocked, therefore not allowing gas to escape, therefore not allowing combustion.
