Disco 3 2.7 tdv6 wont start 😬
- Thread starter charlie@autoworxengineeri
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charlie@autoworxengineeri
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06MY
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Cam turns smoothly, looking through oil filler, but I don't have a camera so can't see second cam. It really does sound like fuel as it is trying to go but only half heartedly. I just cannot understand that if it was fuel, why it wouldn't splurge in to some sort of life with easy start. Potentially it's only trying to go on one bank..06MY
Have you checked the rear belt & tensioner?
That's driven from the other head so if you can see it rotating then the other cam pulley is good - release the clips & check with a mirror. I think if there was a timing or compression issue, you'd hear it changing speed when cranking.
The fuel pump needs to be timed, well, 'ish', a tooth either way is fine, any more and you'll not get the correct pressures when needed, also worth checking the tensioner on the rear belt hasn't given up.
That's driven from the other head so if you can see it rotating then the other cam pulley is good - release the clips & check with a mirror. I think if there was a timing or compression issue, you'd hear it changing speed when cranking.
The fuel pump needs to be timed, well, 'ish', a tooth either way is fine, any more and you'll not get the correct pressures when needed, also worth checking the tensioner on the rear belt hasn't given up.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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I was told previous garage checked and it was all good, but will check myself shortly. Basically a specialist indy checked all these things and drew a blank. Previous owner just spent nearly £2k on getting it through mot in September so was very keen to fix it but to no avail. They even replaced passenger egr as code was there and other egr was done last year. These things are a mystery
thankscharlie@autoworxengineeri
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Wow that does not look easy to get toI was told previous garage checked and it was all good, but will check myself shortly. Basically a specialist indy checked all these things and drew a blank. Previous owner just spent nearly £2k on getting it through mot in September so was very keen to fix it but to no avail. They even replaced passenger egr as code was there and other egr was done last year. These things are a mystery
I will try again in the morning.The 3.0l is just a bit less easy...
Here's the marks on the pulleys, (pressed in, not brilliant white!)
There's not always a mark on the camshaft pulley but if the crank is at TDC (and the timing belt is correctly installed) then you only really need to check the pump, the two holes in the pump pulley should be approximately 11 O'clock & 5 O'clock, obviously there should be no slack (or missing teeth!) in the belt. It's not uncommon for the rear belt to be left unchanged by some indies or home mechanics....
Here's the marks on the pulleys, (pressed in, not brilliant white!)
There's not always a mark on the camshaft pulley but if the crank is at TDC (and the timing belt is correctly installed) then you only really need to check the pump, the two holes in the pump pulley should be approximately 11 O'clock & 5 O'clock, obviously there should be no slack (or missing teeth!) in the belt. It's not uncommon for the rear belt to be left unchanged by some indies or home mechanics....
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charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Yeah I can see why!! I'm presuming this is the belt that the used to say body off for
ok well I'll have a go but am a bit dubious tbh. Does the slam panel come off to allow access?Body off? no. There's vey little you need to take the body off for - this isn't one of those jobs, in any case, you're just checking the belt and pump phasing, not replacing the belt.
Unplug the PCM & transfer box harness, fling it to the other side of the engine, unbolt the coolant pipe, fold it to the front of the engine, hold in place with a bungee, flick the 2 or 3 (can't remember!) clips out of the top of the belt cover, tip the cover backwards, it'll pivot in the slots at the bottom & check the belt, tensioner & pump position with a mirror & good torch. It should take less than an hour.
If you mean scuttle panel, not slam panel - no it doesn't, once you have the harness' & the coolant pipe out of the way, it's relatively easy.
Unplug the PCM & transfer box harness, fling it to the other side of the engine, unbolt the coolant pipe, fold it to the front of the engine, hold in place with a bungee, flick the 2 or 3 (can't remember!) clips out of the top of the belt cover, tip the cover backwards, it'll pivot in the slots at the bottom & check the belt, tensioner & pump position with a mirror & good torch. It should take less than an hour.
If you mean scuttle panel, not slam panel - no it doesn't, once you have the harness' & the coolant pipe out of the way, it's relatively easy.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Ah ok that sounds easy enough, thanks. Sorry yes I meant scuttle. I'll have a look in the morning then
It's been over ten years since I was troubled by a rear belt on a 2.7TDV6 so there may be bits that evade my memory, the 3.0TDV6 is more involved with brackets and supports to remove along with extra plumbing, the above is essentially correct though.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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OK ill have a go this morning.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Wow that was fun!! Not so sure I would want to actually change the belt but the belt and tensioner are both fine..... where next?OK ill have a go this morning.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Do I turn engine over to make sure the pump belt is turning? If so, can I do that from the key with all that wiring disconnected ... presume not, as it will probably go into code meltdown
I appreciate your help, thanks. We have a very good Indy locally which I am happy to take it to once I have tried my absolute best, but I assume they will only be doing all this first as the previous guys said they did.charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Yeah figured that would be the case. It'll be tomorrow morning now as it's hammering it down and it's outside the workshop at the moment. So if it turns where next?
Check fuel rail pressure at cranking, then a vacuum gauge on the inlet to the throttle body to check intake for draw & pulsation - a bit like balancing twin carbs back in the day! If you remove the 'Y' shaped throttle body, you can check each bank individually.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Right ok, thanks.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
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Would this do a job? Figured I could make it fit to y piece but would also test fuel pressure as I only have hydraulic guages.
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charlie@autoworxengineeri
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I've also watched a couple of videos on changing pump belt and they both stated that it isn't timed at all, yet you mentioned it could only be a tooth or so out.. just curious.
