Diesel SWB Wiring questions

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There are two brown wires coming off terminal(s) 5.

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Does anyone know if there is a way to disassemble the horn switch? It looks a lot newer than the rest of the electrics, but the horn button makes a very poor connection. It will barely register when connected to a continuity tester.

I would like to try cleaning the contacts before spending £20 on a new one.
 
I never actually had the horn connected to the indicator stalk switch. It was operated through another switch that had been bodged as the proper switch wasn't working.

I do have contact cleaner spray, but from what I can see, the contacts are not easily accessible.
 
Thanks for that Bobsticle: The switch is now sorted and the horn reconnected through its proper wiring.

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Does anyone know the difference between a civilian and military chassis wiring harness?

John Craddock lists a military SWB chassis harness (part number 569156) for £13.27. They also list simply a rear chassis harness for a Series 3 SWB (part number 589705) for £62.50.

If possible I would like to use the military one as it is nearly 50 quid less than the other one. However, my vehicle is a civilian model.
 
There's probably more in the military version - all the NATO trailer stuff is in there over and above the normal lights. Useful spare cores IMO, however I can't find the military one listed on Craddocks site.

If you're not electrically inclined it's almost certainly better to warm your wallet and buy the correct item - not only will you find it easier to install in the first place, you will find it easier to maintain.
 
Thanks for the reply.

The civilian series wiring only has about 6 wires running to the back of the vehicle. I don't think it would be a problem working out what's what with the circuit diagram, assuming the wire colours are the same.
 
I now have most all of the wiring re-connected. I decided to work with what I had as far as the chassis loom is concerned, it can always be replaced later. All of the rear lights are now wired up as they should be.

Unfortunately I do have a problem. There seems to be a short to earth somewhere. When I tried connecting the battery (with igniton off), there was a spark and a crack from one of the terminals. I also heard the solenoid click. When I put the multimeter with the continuity tester between both battery terminals with ignition off, it shows continuity with zero resistance. Obviously this is not right. I will need to investigate further. Where would be the best place to start from the symptoms I have described?
 
It looks like you have a short somewhere. I find in such circumstances a gallon of petrol and a match solves the problem, just watch the eyebrows. ;)

Other than that, disconnect everything and test as each component is reconnected.
 
The short has been found. The starter solenoid was sticking in the on position. I hadn't realised that the vehicle was in gear until it tried to creep forward through the power of the starter motor.

I took the back off the solenoid and cleaned both the internal bore and the sliding core. Now it doesn't seem to want to move at all. Are replacement solenoids for the Series starter motor easily available? If so, what is the part number?

I may simply swap the starter motor/solenoid for a new unit. Am I right that ones for early defenders fit and are available brand new?

All of the other electrics are now working.

Thanks for any info.
 
Does no-one have any info on where to buy the solenoid?

Is it me or is the forum a bit quiet generally at the moment? I suppose the time of year may be a reason, people might be on holiday or looking after their kids.
 
you do not say what engine fitted so hard to advise on solenoid.
Petrol 2.25 is seperate solenoid and dirt cheap to replace.
Diesel is part of starter motor .
Do you have a parts book. Do a web search for smithies landrover will bring up a NZ site of interest.
 
I can see why your struggling. I did a search for 'land rover series 3 starter solenoid sales' and only came up with About 279,000 results (0.46 seconds)
 
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