diesel, poor acceleration, worse than expected!!

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I would love to see 14.7 secs!!! I know these ain't rocket ships, didnt buy for that, but I know that when I pull out from a junction I take a deep breath and hope for the best! I used to drive bedford MK's and even that was quicker, until she warms up I can't even reach 60. once she is warm I have predictable acceleration and pull away no problem, whereas when cold I can plant it and its as if the accelerator isn't even connected, then it will spring to life but still slow. I'm gonna do an oil and filter change on the box, to see how it goes and also as I have no record of it being done! everything else is really good on it (touch wood) EAS works a treat, brakes all good, key and immobiliser has been fine since I refurbed the key, top tailgate needs a heavy had to lock properly, but we had a Y reg classic when I was a kid so used to that, body is good. will let you know how I get on. I like my 2.5, if it was a point and shoot car I would be bored already, but this is keeping me busy.
 
does anyone have a picture of the engine, as I'm still learning where everything is! I know my way round a 300tdi, but not these and trying to find a haynes manual is!!! not happening, I have a workshop manual downloaded, but no pics in it.
 
nathanstev said:
does anyone have a picture of the engine, as I'm still learning where everything is! I know my way round a 300tdi, but not these and trying to find a haynes manual is!!! not happening, I have a workshop manual downloaded, but no pics in it.
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Look at my EAS "How To" at top of page. In it there is a link to download RAVE workshop manual. Everything you need is in that.
 
Cheers wammers, and btw nice profile pic!! nice to see a fellow brother in arms on here. I have had a poke about the engine bay although only quick as I'm on baby sitting duty. I have just installed a freeflow cotton airfilter see how that goes, checked the EGR connections, they all good, intercooler hoses all fine inside too. I had bought a power box when I first got the car, looking to fit it on a less rainy day, but..... the blue mystery box on the inner wing is actually a tuning box!! its a powerlink box, which by looking on the net seems to be a popular one in america. It plugs into the inlet cables (big round 7 pin plug) and has a T piece connection in the piping under the MAP. haven't driven it since yesterday but hopefully it will be alot better since the blast I gave it, if not then its coming out and try it without first.
 
nathanstev said:
Cheers wammers, and btw nice profile pic!! nice to see a fellow brother in arms on here. I have had a poke about the engine bay although only quick as I'm on baby sitting duty. I have just installed a freeflow cotton airfilter see how that goes, checked the EGR connections, they all good, intercooler hoses all fine inside too. I had bought a power box when I first got the car, looking to fit it on a less rainy day, but..... the blue mystery box on the inner wing is actually a tuning box!! its a powerlink box, which by looking on the net seems to be a popular one in america. It plugs into the inlet cables (big round 7 pin plug) and has a T piece connection in the piping under the MAP. haven't driven it since yesterday but hopefully it will be alot better since the blast I gave it, if not then its coming out and try it without first.
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If it's as bad as you say and it should not be with the tuning box on it. I would disconnect that and see what you have. It really sounds like you are not getting any boost fuelling.
 
nathanstev said:
Cheers wammers, and btw nice profile pic!! nice to see a fellow brother in arms on here. I have had a poke about the engine bay although only quick as I'm on baby sitting duty. I have just installed a freeflow cotton airfilter see how that goes, checked the EGR connections, they all good, intercooler hoses all fine inside too. I had bought a power box when I first got the car, looking to fit it on a less rainy day, but..... the blue mystery box on the inner wing is actually a tuning box!! its a powerlink box, which by looking on the net seems to be a popular one in america. It plugs into the inlet cables (big round 7 pin plug) and has a T piece connection in the piping under the MAP. haven't driven it since yesterday but hopefully it will be alot better since the blast I gave it, if not then its coming out and try it without first.
Click to expand...
The free flow air filter will make bugger all difference, the standard fit does a good job.
That's is I think an old type analogue tuning box, I'd pull it off and see what difference it makes. The newer types intercept the wiring to the MAP sensor rather than the pipe.
 
Datatek said:
The free flow air filter will make bugger all difference, the standard fit does a good job.
That's is I think an old type analogue tuning box, I'd pull it off and see what difference it makes. The newer types intercept the wiring to the MAP sensor rather than the pipe.
Click to expand...

Bloody hell Keith have you got ESP? :D:D:D
 
Hi, new member so apologies, P38 2000 plate 2.5lt diesel same as Nathanstev, interested in what was the possible outcome of this, minedoes exactly the same, strange thing I find is it seems according to tacho to be ticking over at 450/500 rpm, and will only start to move at around 1500 rpm, junctions as Nathanstev are a nightmare, all help appreciated, thanks . Keith
 
keithcanfixit said:
Hi, new member so apologies, P38 2000 plate 2.5lt diesel same as Nathanstev, interested in what was the possible outcome of this, minedoes exactly the same, strange thing I find is it seems according to tacho to be ticking over at 450/500 rpm, and will only start to move at around 1500 rpm, junctions as Nathanstev are a nightmare, all help appreciated, thanks . Keith
Click to expand...

Engine should stop below 500 RPM. You need a Nanocom on it to set idle speed to 750 first job. Then look at pipe from MAP sensor (on top of fuel filter) check it is connected to manifold and that it is not split or obstructed. Turbo pipes can become delaminated internally and cause obstruction to air flow. Make sure EGR valve is not partially stuck open. A few things to look at but lack of pressure to MAP sensor is main thing that goes wrong.
 
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Cheers for the info Wammers, any idea of cost for someone with Nanocom to rest it or would it be better to buy one for future use, will check all pipework when the blo..y rain stops, does the intercooler pipework have vitron "O" rings on it ?
 
Intercooler pipes are just clamped with jubilee clips, so easy to get off but make sure they are free from oil when you put them back or they can pop off when the turbo kicks in.
 
keithcanfixit said:
Cheers for the info Wammers, any idea of cost for someone with Nanocom to rest it or would it be better to buy one for future use, will check all pipework when the blo..y rain stops, does the intercooler pipework have vitron "O" rings on it ?
Click to expand...
If you're planning to keep it for a while then buy yourself a nanocom.
 
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