Diesel knock or something else?

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P38dave

Member
Posts
96
Location
Moor row cumbria
Hi all again after doing the head gasket and hot spots my engine now sounds very knock. Not the bottom end as was fine before and plenty of oil pressure. The hotspots protruded from the head a bit more than I would have liked as I think the head has been skimmed but it turns over fine both on the starter and by hand Help much appreciated I'm at my wits end with this thing!
 
Should also add it's better now iv retarded the timing but I can't retard the pump any further there is still room in the slots to do so iv slackened the injector pipes and the bar stool still won't turn. It idles nicely now but knocks and smokes when you rev it.​
 
When I had a knock on mine it was the injector spray pattern wrong , that sounds more tappety , have gaps been set correct and nuts tightened , when head as off did you check cam sliders and rollers for flat spots
 
I very well could have got the clearances wrong as this is my first time doing them never owned anything with manual tappets before. I used the rule of 9 method. But as I say its quieter now the timings been retarded idles great but rattles when revved. I was thinking there may be a possibility one of the injectors has picked up some crap while out.
 
If it’s noisy injector, you can slacken the Diesel feed pipe nut On top of injector while running , you could do each in turn and compare change in engine running, if a good one is slackens off then should run rougher
To check the spray pattern the injector needs to be removed and connected to pipe and run engine , but keep away from high pressure spray
 
Will do but can't start it again as the glow plug bulb in the dash blew so I'm waiting for some more. Am I right in saying the clearances are 0.10 in inches? Also what size is the crank pulley Bolt as I need a socket to fit as I had a real struggle turning the motor so I think when I did the clearances I didn't get the valve fully open to adjust the other corresponding valve. Just want to say thanks for all your help where would we be without landyzone lol
 
That's what I thought does anyone know the size of the crank pulley Bolt I was turning it with a big screwdriver through the starter dog but you get a valve opening slightly too far and it starts to close and you can't go back because of the starter dog only working one way. I think a socket would be better just need to know the size so I can get one
 
That is not diesel knock, that is a mechanical noise of some sort.
 
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It smoked more before retarding the timing it's less knocky after retarding it it's better than in the video but still far from right. The hotspots have to protrude slightly I believe as it helps hold them in.
 
P38dave said:
Will do but can't start it again as the glow plug bulb in the dash blew so I'm waiting for some more. Am I right in saying the clearances are 0.10 in inches? Also what size is the crank pulley Bolt as I need a socket to fit as I had a real struggle turning the motor so I think when I did the clearances I didn't get the valve fully open
Click to expand...

I think the heater plugs still work with bulb blown , it’s a 6v normally
It’s the alternator doesn’t work if bulb blown
If you have set clearances to 0.1in they will be noisy I guess you meant 0.01 inches 10 thou or 0.25mm

not sure on bolt size I’ll measure over weekend
lynall said:
You mentioned the hot spots protruded more than you were happy with, I thought they were meant to be flush with the head surface? but it has been a long time since i had the head off of one.
Click to expand...

Got mine on bench I’ll get a pic
 
Cheers! Don't think the plugs are working iv ordered new wires and like I say the bulbs. Yes that's what I meant 10 thou. Like I say it doesn't knock at idle now I'd have assumed if a piston was whacking a hot spot it would do it at idle as well. I did measure the protrusion of the hot spots it was about 6 to 8 though just measuring with a feeler gauge but I have used quite a thick mls head gasket.
 
If you put engine in gear and take hand brake off you can you can rotate the engine by pushing the landrover forward preferably at a wheel by pushing on the tyre.
Best done on the level low ratio makes it easier.
 
0.25mm is what I use for the 2.5 na diesel, I also check with a 0.28 to make sure I get it bang on.
Not certain if the 2.25d is the same, but the pump on mine has a timing hole in the side. Undo the nut and there is a disc inside with a V notch in it, it’s actually easier using a small flat head screwdriver to find it. That would fet your fuel timing bang on.
The noise unfortunately sounds like something touching to me, I hope it isn’t. You may be stuck having to remove the head again to look, if you do check everything. This roller was in mine but wasn’t causing an issue, just found it on strip down.
841EE05F-C600-4A5F-A611-65ED71B552C7.jpeg
 
I think the pump is different on the 2.25 it's the one that goes down where the distributor would go on a petrol. I never disturbed the tappets when I did the head. I really hope it's nothing touching had my fill of this thing in a little over 1k miles
 
P38dave said:
Click to expand...

That is definitely not Diesel knock....
You can distinctly hear the top end diesel and valve train clatter, but unfortunately I have to say that sounds like mechanical noise.
Slacken off injector pipes one after another holding a rag to catch the fuel spray at the union whiles listening out for a reduction in that noise as you move from cylinder to cylinder.
 
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