Diesel Do's L Series

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Have you checked it for bump steer? Not sure if this is relevant to you but is a great watch if you haven't seen it before.

Oops, sorry didn't see you already mentioned bump steer. Still worth watching the video tho and all the others from Ep1. Very entertaining.
 
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Yes. Agreed. Plan is weld it to strut at base. Put a beefy triangular brace down it and a triangular plate from the very top over to the spring seat

Along these lines but upside down
image.jpeg
 
Alibro said:
Have you checked it for bump steer? Not sure if this is relevant to you but is a great watch if you haven't seen it before.
Click to expand...

From my research!!!! Bump steer becomes an issue lowering or raising a significant amount because the angle of the track rod moves from the horizontal position so it moves in an arc and pulls the steering more. This has moved it back to horizontal so should reduce the effect. Never noticed it to be a problem though. See if it makes a difference. The yellow set up is a Porsche 911 bump steer kit for that very reason
 
Alibro said:
Have you checked it for bump steer? Not sure if this is relevant to you but is a great watch if you haven't seen it before.

Oops, sorry didn't see you already mentioned bump steer. Still worth watching the video tho and all the others from Ep1. Very entertaining.
Click to expand...


Just watched it. It's brilliant. Off to find the rest
 
Bump steer is controlled by a couple of factors. The angle of the lower arm and it's relationship to the steering arm are the two most important items in the Freelander's suspension.
When LR designed the system, they chose long steering arms, slightly down at the ends when sitting at normal hight. My guess was, to minimise bump steer at larger articulations. However this is only partially effective because the lower arms are quite a lot shorter than the steering arms. For minimum bump steer in general, both the steering arms and the lower arms need to be the same length and at the same angle at all suspension loadings. This is actually extremely difficult to achieve on a road car.
Something like a F1 car has minimal bump steer, by design. However those designs aren't practical on something like a Freelander.
In DDs high lift rack, the steering arm is almost too perfect. I would like to see a slighly less high, high lift. This would allow the steering arms to be slightly lower at the outer ends. This then mirrors the lower arm more closely, giving minimum bump steer. It's always slightly better for the outside wheel to tow in slightly under bump than to tow out, as it gives more predictable handling. Having flat steering arms will give tow out over bumps, which will make the steering feel vague and unpredictable.
With a lifted Freelander, there's always going to be a compromise due to the short lower arms and the angle they sit in relation to the steering arms.
Large tyres will help mask bump steer to a degree as the side walls flex. However it's best to get the actual geometry of the suspension as right as possible first.
 
Nodge68 said:
Bump steer is controlled by a couple of factors. The angle of the lower arm and it's relationship to the steering arm are the two most important items in the Freelander's suspension.
When LR designed the system, they chose long steering arms, slightly down at the ends when sitting at normal hight. My guess was, to minimise bump steer at larger articulations. However this is only partially effective because the lower arms are quite a lot shorter than the steering arms. For minimum bump steer in general, both the steering arms and the lower arms need to be the same length and at the same angle at all suspension loadings. This is actually extremely difficult to achieve on a road car.
Something like a F1 car has minimal bump steer, by design. However those designs aren't practical on something like a Freelander.
In DDs high lift rack, the steering arm is almost too perfect. I would like to see a slighly less high, high lift. This would allow the steering arms to be slightly lower at the outer ends. This then mirrors the lower arm more closely, giving minimum bump steer. It's always slightly better for the outside wheel to tow in slightly under bump than to tow out, as it gives more predictable handling. Having flat steering arms will give tow out over bumps, which will make the steering feel vague and unpredictable.
With a lifted Freelander, there's always going to be a compromise due to the short lower arms and the angle they sit in relation to the steering arms.
Large tyres will help mask bump steer to a degree as the side walls flex. However it's best to get the actual geometry of the suspension as right as possible first.
Click to expand...

My theory too on the long arms mounted at the centre of the rack. The arc travelled is less aggressive for want of a better word. The further it moves from the horizontal the more it's going to pull the steering as it goes down. At the flat position the pull on the steering is less
The spacers are the same height as the lift. The wishbones are 20mm longer and about 10mm higher so the geometry is improved! I think!
 
Wish I could weld like that. I spend more time trying to repair blow through and grinding back dodgy lumps of weld than anything else. :(
Looking well, keep it up.
 
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