Detailed instructions for fitting Mazda RX8 seats needed

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Coffeelandy said:
A couple of months in one of them and no snags. If it was going to burn would it not have gone up by now?
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The motors to adjust the seats may be ok as they are used for short intermittent bursts but there is no way I'd be wiring the heating element piggybacked off the standard wiring.
It's dead simple to do properly :- heavy gauge from the battery through a relay using the ignition wire to switch the relay.
Also above when it was mentioned the 7.5a fuse blew so it was changed for a 20a :eek: if you replace it with a nice 8mm bolt that will then never blow it had a 7.5a in for a reason
 
Jam1 said:
The motors to adjust the seats may be ok as they are used for short intermittent bursts but there is no way I'd be wiring the heating element piggybacked off the standard wiring.
It's dead simple to do properly :- heavy gauge from the battery through a relay using the ignition wire to switch the relay.
Also above when it was mentioned the 7.5a fuse blew so it was changed for a 20a :eek: if you replace it with a nice 8mm bolt that will then never blow it had a 7.5a in for a reason
Click to expand...

easier said than done for me who's not very good with lectrics! lol :)
 
I'd deffo recommend a relay in this situation...

If you've managed to wire it in without one, you have all the necessary skills to wire it in with one. No real excuse...
 
mines wired into the cig lighter so the motors in the seat where blowing the 7a fuses. no power goes to the cig lighter when the ignition isnt engaged so its no problem.... stick in a 20/30a fuse and you will be fine. relays and switches etc are just extra head aches... if you have the seat heater working then id suggest a relay and switch or your burn it out and have red hot nackers haha. but mines just seat movement so it will be ok
 
DanTheDefenderMan said:
mines wired into the cig lighter so the motors in the seat where blowing the 7a fuses. no power goes to the cig lighter when the ignition isnt engaged so its no problem.... stick in a 20/30a fuse and you will be fine. relays and switches etc are just extra head aches... if you have the seat heater working then id suggest a relay and switch or your burn it out and have red hot nackers haha. but mines just seat movement so it will be ok
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Serious question, you do understand what the purpose of a fuse is???
 
Coffeelandy said:
Incidentally what size fuses did you use?
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Think i used 25 amp fuses basicly i was advised on here to start with a few different fuses and keep trying them 10-30 amp till they stop blowing so used a 10 amp one first which worked the seat but blew within sec's then a 15 amp fuse which worked for a short while then blew then tried the 25 amp one and it never blew so used the 25 amp ones and they haven't missed a beat yet and they get used quite a lot as both me and my son use the 90 and he is over 6ft tall and i am 5' 8" :)
but i will check tomorrow :)
 
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A few other vehicles use 30amp fuses for the heated seats. This is plenty enough power to start a big electrical fire, in fact enough power to weld with, so make sure you use a relay to switch the power. Use a separate fuse in a spare position in the fuse box, or a direct separate fused feed from the battery. I'd also make sure to protect the cables against chafing where they rub against metal.
 
Not being funny guys, but there's a reason for fuses and relays, please don't bypass them or link directly to the battery, you're really asking for trouble.
I'm an aircraft engineer, and have seen fires and downed aircraft caused by dodgy electrics, just not worth it!
 
armourermark said:
Not being funny guys, but there's a reason for fuses and relays, please don't bypass them or link directly to the battery, you're really asking for trouble.
I'm an aircraft engineer, and have seen fires and downed aircraft caused by dodgy electrics, just not worth it!
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Yeah that reality is dawning on me! I'm trying to fit a relay but it won't work. Are the seat movement switches capable of triggering the relay?
At present I've got 17 amp wire, 15 amp in line fuse connected to a perm live just for movement. I haven't attempted the heaters yet!
 
Thought i'd sent you this before... Please please please use a relay, fuse and correct wire :)

Replace 'Aux Lights' with 'Heated Seats'

Relay and Switch diagram.jpg
 
This is all a bit scary :eek:

Connecting high power loads like motors and heaters to something like a lighter socket and putting a bigger fuse in to stop it blowing is dangerous.

The wiring to the socket is too small and will get hot. Each time it's used the insulation will get damaged, not just on that circuit but any other circuit packed against it in a loom increasing the chance of a fire as time goes on.

Imo when adding any high power load it's best to give it it's own feed direct from the battery, fused as close to the battery as possible with a relay to switch the circuit dead when the ignition is off.

Fuses MUST be rated lower than the wiring.

If a new load blows a fuse in an existing circuit it means the draw is too large for that whole circuit.
 
Don't panic Captain Mainwaring!
Huff I have this diagram, thank you for that. I attempted to put a relay in and thus just for seat movement not the heating. I've left that for now.
I just couldn't get it to work so either I've connected it wrong, the seat movement switches don't activate the relay or I need to add a switch.
By the way it isn't connected to a lighter it's using an existing perm live left there by the last owner.
The answer here is to take it to a pro!!!
 
As far as i'm aware, you will need a separate switch for the relay. Well, I guess you could use one of the seat switches but that's a massive arse ache.

I have my switch mounted next to the hazards. I have both the movement and heated seats wired together. So, to move the seat I do need to switch on the heat. However, I will very rarely be moving it so it's not an issue.
 
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