I'm in the process of getting things together ready for my 110 rebuild. I've ordered a new Richard chassis, got a second hand pair of b posts galvanised. Next week I'm going to order complete new brakes, new clutch, possible suspension thing I want to know what's the best manufactor? Won't touch britport etc. Also anyelse I should change while it's in bits.
Defender revuild
- Thread starter Tim Sharp
- Start date
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mick the builder
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- Sligo,Wild West of Ireland.
Probably your typing finger.
Flossie
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Brake pipes.
Buy the tube and fittings and get yourself a flare tool. A good flare tool that I use was under £40.
If your buying new calipers consider replacing the pistons with stainless steel, saves grief later on.
Get the body support cross member galved as well, it's difficult (impossible?) To change once the tub is on.
New bushes all round.
Buy the tube and fittings and get yourself a flare tool. A good flare tool that I use was under £40.
If your buying new calipers consider replacing the pistons with stainless steel, saves grief later on.
Get the body support cross member galved as well, it's difficult (impossible?) To change once the tub is on.
New bushes all round.
Flossie
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Oh, I've had no issues with britpart stuff except for a wiper drive cable which simply didn't fit.
Use branded seals/bearings though.
Opinions will vary on britpart stuff
Use branded seals/bearings though.
Opinions will vary on britpart stuff
jamesmartin
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ive often bought cheap new calipers and fitted ss pistons for people
Defiantly use genuine seals. I think the front and rear crank shaft oil seals need change and I defiantly don't want to do them twice.Oh, I've had no issues with britpart stuff except for a wiper drive cable which simply didn't fit.
Use branded seals/bearings though.
Opinions will vary on britpart stuff
Is it a simple job to change them. Could I just reuse the old ones and replace the pistons?
Gmacz
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5% off at paddocks today and tomorrow because of a dark coloured Friday.
Gmacz
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BF2017 is the code for the discount.
It is - but the advantage of new cheapo calipers is that they come with new dust seals and retainers already fitted - the retainers can be a PITA
- unless, IME, you use genuine Lockheed - about £7 per caliper IIRC.You could, easily - it's worth new seals in the calipers though - I sand blast any caliper bodies I refurb, (with the old pistons in place), fit new seals and SS pistons - no problems yet. Bear in mind all the bits need to be spotlessly clean ...
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It's reasonably straightforward to do. I used a kit like this one LINK
I did make sure the seals were OEM though. I think I got my kit through LRDirect, though it might have been Paddocks
mick the builder
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I did a straight swop for new but intend re furbing the old ones. What media is best for blasting the calipers? Glass? Or could I use sand.?It is - but the advantage of new cheapo calipers is that they come with new dust seals and retainers already fitted - the retainers can be a PITA
You could, easily - it's worth new seals in the calipers though - I sand blast any caliper bodies I refurb, (with the old pistons in place), fit new seals and SS pistons - no problems yet. Bear in mind all the bits need to be spotlessly clean ...
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I got mine done at a blasters and they also powder coated them in red for me
You got to be very careful not to get any bits inside the cylinders, Mick. Obviously if media gets in while blasting it will affect the surface and then the caliper is carped. The place that did mine said they would only continue with the job if they were happy that they had sealed the cylinders. (I had already removed the pistons) You could put them back in before blasting, but I'd recommend you can get them out before you waste time or money blasting them.
If you are close I could glass bead blast and powder them for you as that's whst I do for a livingI got mine done at a blasters and they also powder coated them in red for me
You got to be very careful not to get any bits inside the cylinders, Mick. Obviously if media gets in while blasting it will affect the surface and then the caliper is carped. The place that did mine said they would only continue with the job if they were happy that they had sealed the cylinders. (I had already removed the pistons) You could put them back in before blasting, but I'd recommend you can get them out before you waste time or money blasting them.
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Cheers, that's very kind. Mine are done though. Mick is in Ireland, so a canny trek from up here.
No problem. ...I usually ask to leave the old pistons and nipples in then blast them then remove the shot (literally! ) pistons ,powder then let them replace the pistons and seals...just done some for a mates toy he's rebuilding. ...a mk1 golf with a 2.9vr6 engine in...
mick the builder
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My calipers are complete with old pistons still intact.
I've got a diy blast cabinet made from an old ibc tank.just got to cut holes and fit gloves. I might try some kiln dried sand as it's softer than the grit I have. Does powder coating stand up to the heat?
I've got a diy blast cabinet made from an old ibc tank.just got to cut holes and fit gloves. I might try some kiln dried sand as it's softer than the grit I have. Does powder coating stand up to the heat?
I use vht powder .. (very high temp)stuff that they coat bbq and the like with ....as long as you are not doing them white or really light colour they will be ok as the powder is cured at 210*c ...if you struggle let me know and I'll send you some powder in what ever ral colour you after ....
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Hmmm.. got me thinking, Mick. (memory is going) I think it was powder coating.
What does this look like @Crashalot
Been on about 15 to 18 months and still look great. No bother with heat yet.
One of my rear pistons I couldn't get out, so would have been a waste blasting and painting if I hadn't checked first.
