Defender Maximum Ride Height Question

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justynwindsor1

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Absolute newbie and complete novice here. I can see there are many experts on these forums, so hoping to get your opinions and thoughts.

My situation: I live in an area which flooding is happening more and more. (Twice/three times per year on average) I’ve managed to protect the property, and now looking for car options to get out of the village (usually as flooding starts to drop) My elder parents also live nearby.

I’m looking to get a Defender, either a 90 or 110, on the basis that I see there are options available to increase the ride height.

I appreciate there are limits to the depth of water cars can drive through, but I’m looking for what my options are to maximize the depth I could get through. (I think ‘ground height clearance’) I see ‘lift kits’, larger wheels, and (I think) larger suspension springs as options.

So on a typical defender 90, say a late 90’s model…

1. What depth of water could be possible to pass?

I should say at maximum, flood water on the lane to the property ranges from zero on the high patches, to 1 foot to two feet, but at maximum flood is up to 3 feet in places (which I wouldn’t be attempting to pass through)

Respectfully,
Justyn
 
Ride height is not the be all and end all. Plus comes with other negative aspects.

What sort of budget are you thinking of?

Raised axle and transmission breathers a must for water wading. There is also a wading plug to fit. A raised air intake could be handy too. Out of the box some of the more modern offering have higher official ratings than the traditional 90/110.

For really deep water one benefit of the old Defender is they let water in and don't float. But you may still end up with damaged start motor, alternator etc.
 
I think the official max depth is 500mm, but with a snorkel fitted properly, your 2 feet is easily achievable. No need to ruin the handling with increased ride height, and very much cheaper. If your budget ran to the TD5 engine you'd also need to move the under seat ecus somewhere higher and drier. As @300bhp/ton mentions, there are breathers for both gearboxes and axles and they need to be checked to make sure they're located properly, and you'll need the plug which is a one minute job to screw in or out.
 
I have comfortable driven through flooding/river crossings where the water has been over the bonnet in my tdi 110. I am at standard ride height with stock suspension. But have some basic modifications to allow me to do that none of which are expensive.

Raised air intake (snorkel) with fully sealed pipework
All breathers extended to a manifold on the bulkhead and then manifold extended to top of the raised air intake.
Wading plugs fitted.

The above will allow you to cross water which is in theory as deep as the top of the raised intake in any defender which has a non electronic controlled engine (300tdi or older). However this comes with a few drawbacks. Even in fine fettle there is a fairly good chance that water will get into the vital fluids so after wading it is worth checking engine/axle/gearbox oils, and they may need replacing. As mentioned above defender do not float but that is because they let water in. So whatever the water level outside the vehicle the water level inside the vehicle will be similar so you are likely to end up with wet feet if deep for long periods and as such you want rubber matting not carpets.

There is a risk to other items like starter/alternator etc but I have never had any issues. And if you have drum brakes after wading they may need a clean and a reset but discs will be fine.
 
And drive like the chaps in video above, slowly into the water and then maintain a speed that pushes a low bow wave in front. Do not do what can be seen on the you tube of silly buggers blasting into deep water. My standard 200tdi has been through water that deep no issues. Fast flowing water should be avoided.
 
I've seen video of military land rovers going totally under water, fitted with tall snorkels, the drivers in scuba gear. Driven straight off tank landing craft into the sea. Then on and up the beach.
Anything is possible it's just a case of what's safe and what you want..

Without modifications over the last few weeks I've regularly driven in water up to a foot deep without problems. If the water gets much deeper than that I'm staying home on what will be an island..
 
justynwindsor1 said:
Absolute newbie and complete novice here. I can see there are many experts on these forums, so hoping to get your opinions and thoughts.

My situation: I live in an area which flooding is happening more and more. (Twice/three times per year on average) I’ve managed to protect the property, and now looking for car options to get out of the village (usually as flooding starts to drop) My elder parents also live nearby.

I’m looking to get a Defender, either a 90 or 110, on the basis that I see there are options available to increase the ride height.

I appreciate there are limits to the depth of water cars can drive through, but I’m looking for what my options are to maximize the depth I could get through. (I think ‘ground height clearance’) I see ‘lift kits’, larger wheels, and (I think) larger suspension springs as options.

So on a typical defender 90, say a late 90’s model…

1. What depth of water could be possible to pass?

I should say at maximum, flood water on the lane to the property ranges from zero on the high patches, to 1 foot to two feet, but at maximum flood is up to 3 feet in places (which I wouldn’t be attempting to pass through)

Respectfully,
Justyn
Click to expand...
The depth the vehicle can go through is the least of your problems. More the damage the water may do to the vehicle.

Also, bear in mind that when you drive through water, you can't see what may be under the water, which could range from sharp stones or other objects to a sinkhole 6 feet deep.

And that flowing water is a completely different animal to a puddle. When the Volvo got swept away in Zennor valley drowning the three kids, the police estimate the water flowing over the road was only 8 inches deep, but it was moving at great speed, so carried the car away.

So proceed with caution, get a tractor to tow you through, or even abandon the journey until levels receed would be my suggestion.
 
Turboman said:
The depth the vehicle can go through is the least of your problems. More the damage the water may do to the vehicle.

Also, bear in mind that when you drive through water, you can't see what may be under the water, which could range from sharp stones or other objects to a sinkhole 6 feet deep.

And that flowing water is a completely different animal to a puddle. When the Volvo got swept away in Zennor valley drowning the three kids, the police estimate the water flowing over the road was only 8 inches deep, but it was moving at great speed, so carried the car away.

So proceed with caution, get a tractor to tow you through, or even abandon the journey until levels receed would be my suggestion.
Click to expand...
I found chest wafer in small sizes are cheaper. So attach rope to mrs & send her in to plumb the depth.

(And true story… when the mrs went to Iceland overland in the 1980’s they had to have a pair of waders sterilised so the could wade over the fjords. Certificate was checked by customs on entry)
 
Firstly, thank you for all the kind & informative replies.

Having lived in this area a while, I'm familiar with the dangers of fast moving water. My ambition with the vehicle is to be able to pass the standing water, within the confines of the lane leading to my house. Usually as its receding, and typically once food supplies have started to run out if the flood has been up for some time.

I've noted the difference in approach as to if I get an older model or a TD5.

I should also say that the use of this vehicle will only be for this purpose, so the vehicle handling considerations are not too much of a concern. (I average less than 500 miles per year traveling to the post office and shop)

I hadn't considered the air intake issue so will look into that modification more.

Its good to see in the video above that what i'm trying to do, is indeed possible.

RE: Budget...I know I can get an old tractor, such as a Massey starting at the 15k-20k mark upwards, so I'm looking at this Defender route to hopefully come in below that...however I see that despite age and condition, these vehicles hold a high value.

I do have shoulder height waders! Neoprene ones which I recommend for sure. I have used them...but even in standing water the energy to walk the distance required to the nearest neighbor is just too much, especially during the winter months when the days are short and water is particularly cold.

Thank you all for your kind help.
 
justynwindsor1 said:
Firstly, thank you for all the kind & informative replies.

Having lived in this area a while, I'm familiar with the dangers of fast moving water. My ambition with the vehicle is to be able to pass the standing water, within the confines of the lane leading to my house. Usually as its receding, and typically once food supplies have started to run out if the flood has been up for some time.

I've noted the difference in approach as to if I get an older model or a TD5.

I should also say that the use of this vehicle will only be for this purpose, so the vehicle handling considerations are not too much of a concern. (I average less than 500 miles per year traveling to the post office and shop)

I hadn't considered the air intake issue so will look into that modification more.

Its good to see in the video above that what i'm trying to do, is indeed possible.

RE: Budget...I know I can get an old tractor, such as a Massey starting at the 15k-20k mark upwards, so I'm looking at this Defender route to hopefully come in below that...however I see that despite age and condition, these vehicles hold a high value.

I do have shoulder height waders! Neoprene ones which I recommend for sure. I have used them...but even in standing water the energy to walk the distance required to the nearest neighbor is just too much, especially during the winter months when the days are short and water is particularly cold.

Thank you all for your kind help.
Click to expand...
Get a tractor… you can make a few quid towing the idiots out.
 
justynwindsor1 said:
Firstly, thank you for all the kind & informative replies.

Having lived in this area a while, I'm familiar with the dangers of fast moving water. My ambition with the vehicle is to be able to pass the standing water, within the confines of the lane leading to my house. Usually as its receding, and typically once food supplies have started to run out if the flood has been up for some time.

I've noted the difference in approach as to if I get an older model or a TD5.

I should also say that the use of this vehicle will only be for this purpose, so the vehicle handling considerations are not too much of a concern. (I average less than 500 miles per year traveling to the post office and shop)

I hadn't considered the air intake issue so will look into that modification more.

Its good to see in the video above that what i'm trying to do, is indeed possible.

RE: Budget...I know I can get an old tractor, such as a Massey starting at the 15k-20k mark upwards, so I'm looking at this Defender route to hopefully come in below that...however I see that despite age and condition, these vehicles hold a high value.

I do have shoulder height waders! Neoprene ones which I recommend for sure. I have used them...but even in standing water the energy to walk the distance required to the nearest neighbor is just too much, especially during the winter months when the days are short and water is particularly cold.

Thank you all for your kind help.
Click to expand...
In the UK, you can get an old tractor starting at about a grand if you aren't fussy.
Zetors, Universals, Siromer and the like are very capable of going through a couple or three feet of water, and will last for years if not on heavy farm work.
 
Turboman said:
In the UK, you can get an old tractor starting at about a grand if you aren't fussy.
Zetors, Universals, Siromer and the like are very capable of going through a couple or three feet of water, and will last for years if not on heavy farm work.
Click to expand...
And the old Zetors double up as a greenhouse when you’re not swimming with it :)
 
justynwindsor1 said:
Firstly, thank you for all the kind & informative replies.

Having lived in this area a while, I'm familiar with the dangers of fast moving water. My ambition with the vehicle is to be able to pass the standing water, within the confines of the lane leading to my house. Usually as its receding, and typically once food supplies have started to run out if the flood has been up for some time.

I've noted the difference in approach as to if I get an older model or a TD5.

I should also say that the use of this vehicle will only be for this purpose, so the vehicle handling considerations are not too much of a concern. (I average less than 500 miles per year traveling to the post office and shop)

I hadn't considered the air intake issue so will look into that modification more.

Its good to see in the video above that what i'm trying to do, is indeed possible.

RE: Budget...I know I can get an old tractor, such as a Massey starting at the 15k-20k mark upwards, so I'm looking at this Defender route to hopefully come in below that...however I see that despite age and condition, these vehicles hold a high value.

I do have shoulder height waders! Neoprene ones which I recommend for sure. I have used them...but even in standing water the energy to walk the distance required to the nearest neighbor is just too much, especially during the winter months when the days are short and water is particularly cold.

Thank you all for your kind help.
Click to expand...
Where are you? Not many remote places in mainland UK as per your description.

For that budget something like a Unimog might suit better or perhaps a boat.
 
A Toybota is the answer

IMG_9644.png
 
justynwindsor1 said:
RE: Budget...I know I can get an old tractor, such as a Massey starting at the 15k-20k mark upwards, so I'm looking at this Defender route to hopefully come in below that...however I see that despite age and condition, these vehicles hold a high value.
Click to expand...

Hicap phill said:
Get a tractor… you can make a few quid towing the idiots out.
Click to expand...

Turboman said:
In the UK, you can get an old tractor starting at about a grand if you aren't fussy.
Zetors, Universals, Siromer and the like are very capable of going through a couple or three feet of water, and will last for years if not on heavy farm work.
Click to expand...
If you are only looking to use it only when flooded I would agree with the above about getting a tractor instead. I don't know what sort of tractor you are looking at for 15-20k but you should be able to get something that will fit your requirements with an enclosed cab (I assume a requirement) for much less than that (probably under 5k) and certainly much less than a land rover. Similar to a land rover as well if it is an old mechanical tractor rather than modern electronic you can extend the intake to give you lots more wading depth. A quick search on ebay shows plenty of Leyland and ford at about the 4k mark.
 
dag019 said:
If you are only looking to use it only when flooded I would agree with the above about getting a tractor instead. I don't know what sort of tractor you are looking at for 15-20k but you should be able to get something that will fit your requirements with an enclosed cab (I assume a requirement) for much less than that (probably under 5k) and certainly much less than a land rover. Similar to a land rover as well if it is an old mechanical tractor rather than modern electronic you can extend the intake to give you lots more wading depth. A quick search on ebay shows plenty of Leyland and ford at about the 4k mark.
Click to expand...
Put a link box on the back and you can carry a few passengers or some shopping!
 
You could get one of these:
IMG_1331.jpeg


note the bump in the roof - that is the emergency exit.
these can wade to half way up the windscreen.
But remember, after these wade they get a full hose down and new oils/fluids in everything.
also if they have ever been taken apart they will need resealing properly.
 
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