Defender heater matrix
- Thread starter Nillevang
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honolulujoe
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honolulujoe
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you can also add a second s3 matrix to the existing one apparently.
get a second matrix and box off the bay, take the back bit off, take the front off the one you have and put the two together, there is a web page somewhere that shows you how to do it.
an s3 heater should be enough on its own though, you may just need to buy a new matrix.
get a second matrix and box off the bay, take the back bit off, take the front off the one you have and put the two together, there is a web page somewhere that shows you how to do it.
an s3 heater should be enough on its own though, you may just need to buy a new matrix.
Yeah I saw that link too, but that's everything (including blower) he's transplanting. I just wanna know about this part: UTP1725 | Heater Matrix - horizontal inlet and outlet pipes pipes will fit and be an improvement? 
honolulujoe
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ha, sorry I didn't read your post properly, no idea I am afraid, I think the defender matrix is bigger but you might be able to make the s3 box a bit bigger if you can weld etc
mistericeman
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First test run = toasty
Mind i need to sort out a "manifold in 15mm copper ,so that both matrixes ,and the round heater in the cab can all run in parallel rather than in series as they are at the moment .
And i also need to replace the fan motor housing ,as there is no bottom in it at the moment :shock: ,so i am loosing a goodly amount of air,Or even better replace it with a bilge blower (Ebay) and draw air through the radiator to increase the ambient air temperature .
first test results are promising though ,a few hours well spent i reckon
samc88
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Nothing wrong with the standard matrix if its flushed through and cleaned. Start sweating in mine once its on and engines warmed up
honolulujoe
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First test run = toasty
Mind i need to sort out a "manifold in 15mm copper ,so that both matrixes ,and the round heater in the cab can all run in parallel rather than in series as they are at the moment .
And i also need to replace the fan motor housing ,as there is no bottom in it at the moment :shock: ,so i am loosing a goodly amount of air,Or even better replace it with a bilge blower (Ebay) and draw air through the radiator to increase the ambient air temperature .
first test results are promising though ,a few hours well spent i reckon
excellent job, running in parallel would make it even warmer I guess, when it is very cold the water may have cooled down a lot by the time it gets to the end of the second exchanger in series?
if my fan housing goes I plan to get a plastic bilge blower too, much better than a metal one imho
First test run = toasty
Mind i need to sort out a "manifold in 15mm copper ,so that both matrixes ,and the round heater in the cab can all run in parallel rather than in series as they are at the moment .
And i also need to replace the fan motor housing ,as there is no bottom in it at the moment :shock: ,so i am loosing a goodly amount of air,Or even better replace it with a bilge blower (Ebay) and draw air through the radiator to increase the ambient air temperature .
first test results are promising though ,a few hours well spent i reckon
It's not a bad idea running the ducting past the engine and make a shroud that fits on the radiator thus preheating the air. But, you need to be damn sure that it wont draw any toxic fumes from the engine bay. And it will still be hot in the summer!!
honolulujoe
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eh?
we are talking about connecting heater matrices together, just affecting the way the water flows round the pipes and matrices, no electrics involved
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he means coolant i think
with them doubled up, what's air resistance like through the fins?
I thought he was on about how hard the water pump would have to work in pushing the coolant through the two matrices. Not that I expect it'd make much difference as they're tiny compared to the size of the radiator that it also has to push fluid through.
honolulujoe
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I wouldn't have thought flow would be an issue, like I even know what I am talking about , I don't recall it ever being mentioned by anyone that did the mod.
I would be interested in knowing if there was any empirical data on how much one could add in terms of extra pipework etc before one needs a stronger water pump, sometime in the autumn I intend to add a smiths flatty to the tubs of both the s1 and s3 for heating support
, I don't recall it ever being mentioned by anyone that did the mod.I would be interested in knowing if there was any empirical data on how much one could add in terms of extra pipework etc before one needs a stronger water pump, sometime in the autumn I intend to add a smiths flatty to the tubs of both the s1 and s3 for heating support
honolulujoe
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I'm talking coolant here ;-) Liquids flow through tubing is not that different than electrics
genuinely did not know that.
