Jimsky Korsokov
Active Member
- Posts
- 142
- Location
- Cotswolds
Posted the same question yesterday but for some reason did not appear as a new thread - apologies if duplicated.
I'm going to fit Anti roll / sway bars front and back to my Defender some time in the future. Whilst fitting a new short leg rear chassis cross member, because the tank guard and tank were removed I thought I'd just check the ARB mounting 10mm head bolts would undo ..... they all sheared off (lucky I checked).
I've ground them out now but have some questions I'm hoping you can help me with:
1. Is it essential to weld on new captive nuts (I can't remember if there is access enough for getting a spanner in behind once the fuel tank and guard is back in place?
2. Does anyone do a nice tapped stainless backplate and bolt combo (like the ones you can get for fitting the front bumper with stainless bolts)
3. Is the ease of captive nuts essential if the ARB flips over?
Ideally I'd like a solution that enables the use of Stainless Steel nuts and bolts,
Cheers
I'm going to fit Anti roll / sway bars front and back to my Defender some time in the future. Whilst fitting a new short leg rear chassis cross member, because the tank guard and tank were removed I thought I'd just check the ARB mounting 10mm head bolts would undo ..... they all sheared off (lucky I checked).
I've ground them out now but have some questions I'm hoping you can help me with:
1. Is it essential to weld on new captive nuts (I can't remember if there is access enough for getting a spanner in behind once the fuel tank and guard is back in place?
2. Does anyone do a nice tapped stainless backplate and bolt combo (like the ones you can get for fitting the front bumper with stainless bolts)
3. Is the ease of captive nuts essential if the ARB flips over?
Ideally I'd like a solution that enables the use of Stainless Steel nuts and bolts,
Cheers
