Defender 110 CSW TD5 failed sniff test

versteckt said:

@Polski Boschski - can you please explain why you'd change the ECU and fuel pressure regulator? I'm new to all of this and I'd just be throwing stuff on without knowing why.

Click to expand...

Early td5 engines did get updated a bit.
Head was changed and ECU was also changed.
Fuel pressure regulator is a consumable part at the back of the engine and easy to get at with the head off. It's a must do. Not expensive and easy.
ECU change will give you better fuel economy and other options for programming against the early ones which were set in their ways.


...AND while you are in there replace the injector wire loom. Again easy and cheap.
It gets wet with oil and doesn't last very long .
May as well change it for the sake of £40

Polski Boschski said:

Early td5 engines did get updated a bit.
Head was changed and ECU was also changed.
Fuel pressure regulator is a consumable part at the back of the engine and easy to get at with the head off. It's a must do. Not expensive and easy.
ECU change will give you better fuel economy and other options for programming against the early ones which were set in their ways.


...AND while you are in there replace the injector wire loom. Again easy and cheap.
It gets wet with oil and doesn't last very long .
May as well change it for the sake of £40

Click to expand...

Appreciate the thorough response. Thank you.

I'll check the receipts for a fuel pressure regulator and if it's not in there I'll replace it. ECU I may pass on depending on price.

Re. Head I'm weighing up replacing it with an AMC one.

Injector loom already here ready

Reviving this thread as work is dying down for the holidays and I finally have some free time.

Fuel pressure regulator was replaced in 2018. However, I'm going to replace it and keep the existing one as a spare.

I had an absolute nightmare trying to get the bolt out which would allow me access to pin the flywheel. I ended up bribing a REME friend with pints to weld a nut on it.

After we got it out, it turned out the threads were knackered and the pin wouldn't fit. Despite my best efforts and countless rotations I could not get the cam and crank pinned at the same time.
Eventually I just used a drill bit, a plank of wood, and some prayers.

The head is off and the new head from Turner Engineering has just arrived. Shiny.

I tried cleaning the block surface with brake cleaner, a plastic razor blade, and some elbow grease. Barely made a dent. I've ordered a roloc disc and I'll give it another go.

During the cleaning process I did realise that there was some coolant left in the block. After some frantic googling I realised I should have drained that before. The drain plug is behind the alternator so that will need to come off too. Thanks Land Rover.

All in all, a hell of a lesson so far.

Enjoying every minute.

Did you check for leaks in the EGR cooler.