Defender 300tdi won't start - need to get to work

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

As above. I've had this problem a handful of times before but it normally resolves itself. On turning the key all dash lights come on, battery is perfectly fine (I've got a huge battery so it's definitely not flat) when I try to start I get nothing. Not even a click or turn over or anything. I get nothing. This has happened before when I've just parked up and started maybe ten minutes later but it usually works after one or two trys. Parked it up last night and everything was fine. Starter is hard to get into but the dead man's switch looks to be connected fine.
I've came back inside for a coffee cos it's bloody - 7 outside and my hands are freezing. I need to get to work though so any advice would be fandabbydosey!

Dippypud · Jan 19, 2015

the_wolf said:
As above. I've had this problem a handful of times before but it normally resolves itself. On turning the key all dash lights come on, battery is perfectly fine (I've got a huge battery so it's definitely not flat) when I try to start I get nothing. Not even a click or turn over or anything. I get nothing. This has happened before when I've just parked up and started maybe ten minutes later but it usually works after one or two trys. Parked it up last night and everything was fine. Starter is hard to get into but the dead man's switch looks to be connected fine.
I've came back inside for a coffee cos it's bloody - 7 outside and my hands are freezing. I need to get to work though so any advice would be fandabbydosey!

The wire to the fuel solenoid?

Dippypud · Jan 19, 2015

Try cycling the glowplugs a few times ...

biggeeeee · Jan 19, 2015

I've no motor but may have it back later today.

blue beasty · Jan 19, 2015

Jump lead from battery -ve to engine block?

Jump lead from battery +ve to starter +ve?

If never of those help run a length of wire from battery +ve to the spade connection on the solenoid (the wire from ignition) but only touch it else the engine might keep turning over until you pull it off.

Failing that thump the starter.

Good luck

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

Dippypud said:
The wire to the fuel solenoid?

Surely it would still turn over if that was the problem? Had a fuel solenoid security switch on my last motor, if it was still off when you tried to start it would just turn over.

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

Dippypud said:
Try cycling the glowplugs a few times ...

Tried that. It's not too cold, it's as if nothings happening at all.

blue beasty said:
Jump lead from battery -ve to engine block?

Jump lead from battery +ve to starter +ve?

If never of those help run a length of wire from battery +ve to the spade connection on the solenoid (the wire from ignition) but only touch it else the engine might keep turning over until you pull it off.

Failing that thump the starter.

Good luck

Yup all battery leads are fine. I've had a dodgy starter before and its not that. Will try and get the space connector off when I go back put but it's bloody difficult to get into. Still connected fine though so I don't think it's that (had a problem with that little bugger jumping off on my last motor too)

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

biggeeeee said:
I've no motor but may have it back later today.

It's alright mate. I'm hoping ill have it going at some point soon, if not then work can ram it

blue beasty · Jan 19, 2015

the_wolf said:
Tried that. It's not too cold, it's as if nothings happening at all.

Yup all battery leads are fine. I've had a dodgy starter before and its not that. Will try and get the space connector off when I go back put but it's bloody difficult to get into. Still connected fine though so I don't think it's that (had a problem with that little bugger jumping off on my last motor too)

But it might not be the connections themselves, it may be a wire problem or ignition switch.

Trying the 3 bypasses above will either work or eliminate that.

I had a 200tdi with an intermittent starting problem twice, once it was a corroded main feed to the starter (high resistance), mostly it would start, sometimes it wouldn't. The other time was fooked cut out switch on the earth fitted by a PO that I never used.

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

####ing thing. I made up a length of wire, was about to remove the air hose to get into the starter better. Thought I'd try it again just before I did and it started. I'll need to get a better look at it later. Cheers for the replies.

Dippypud · Jan 19, 2015

If it does not crank, then the problem is in the starter circuit.

Take the thin lead off the starter solenoid on top of the starter motor, and stick a DVM between it and a good earth.
Turn the key to position II (start).
You should get 12 volts across the meter.

If you do, then the fault is most likely with the starter motor ... but to be sure, put the lead back on, stick the meter probe into the back of the connector, and operate the starter again.

If the voltage is still present but the starter isn't doing anything, it will be the starter...

Is there a light flashing on the dash when you try to crank the engine. It looks something like a window with a key on it. That implies a fault with the immobiliser.

blue beasty · Jan 19, 2015

the_wolf said:
####ing thing. I made up a length of wire, was about to remove the air hose to get into the starter better. Thought I'd try it again just before I did and it started. I'll need to get a better look at it later. Cheers for the replies.

Mine was like that, did my head in until I finally found the faults.

Have fun at work

biggeeeee · Jan 19, 2015

What time you finishing work, let me know and I'll try and head over to rescue you, when it goes again

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

Not till 5.

It's a bad earth I reckon. Rear lights are going mental and flickering on and off. Gauges drop when I press the brakes with the tail lights on. Earths off, cleaned and copper greased I reckon. Hopefully that'll sort it

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

Dippypud said:
If it does not crank, then the problem is in the starter circuit.

Take the thin lead off the starter solenoid on top of the starter motor, and stick a DVM between it and a good earth.
Turn the key to position II (start).
You should get 12 volts across the meter.

If you do, then the fault is most likely with the starter motor ... but to be sure, put the lead back on, stick the meter probe into the back of the connector, and operate the starter again.

If the voltage is still present but the starter isn't doing anything, it will be the starter...

Is there a light flashing on the dash when you try to crank the engine. It looks something like a window with a key on it. That implies a fault with the immobiliser.

Flashing lights? Immobiliser? It's a Defender I've got, not a spaceship lol

blue beasty · Jan 19, 2015

the_wolf said:
Not till 5.

It's a bad earth I reckon. Rear lights are going mental and flickering on and off. Gauges drop when I press the brakes with the tail lights on. Earths off, cleaned and copper greased I reckon. Hopefully that'll sort it

If it is earths a jump lead from battery negative to engine block should get it started if/when it does it again.

Diagnosis of intermittent problems is always a bit of a pita

Dippypud · Jan 19, 2015

blue beasty said:
Diagnosis of intermittent problems is always a bit of a pita

I remember the fun you had with yours last year at Bristol & West ...

blue beasty · Jan 19, 2015

Dippypud said:
I remember the fun you had with yours last year at Bristol & West ...

Burnt out cut-off switch on the earth, fookin thing

trax · Jan 19, 2015

starter should be easy to get to on a 300.

do the jump lead on neg earth as above if it does it again.

but also do the following if the jump lead fails. carry a chunky insulated screwdriver. make sure you are out of gear, ign on and bridge the starter spade connection to the red+ connection from the battery also on the starter. pull it out when the starter kicks and it starts.

if the starter doesn't kick then stick the screwdriver to the + pole to the other pole, it should spin.. if it does, then your solenoid is borked as it's not kicking out and bridging..

if none of that does anything, then it's still bad connections.

the_wolf · Jan 19, 2015

trax said:
starter should be easy to get to on a 300.

do the jump lead on neg earth as above if it does it again.

but also do the following if the jump lead fails. carry a chunky insulated screwdriver. make sure you are out of gear, ign on and bridge the starter spade connection to the red+ connection from the battery also on the starter. pull it out when the starter kicks and it starts.

if the starter doesn't kick then stick the screwdriver to the + pole to the other pole, it should spin.. if it does, then your solenoid is borked as it's not kicking out and bridging..

if none of that does anything, then it's still bad connections.

Yeah I did the screwdriver trick a number if times on my last one as the solenoid was buggered (it did eventually go completely) but you could still hear it spinning, it just wouldn't engage the flywheel. It's not the starter as its shown no symptoms whatsoever.
I'm gonna clean off the earth's and whatnot tonight and see if that'll sort the lights at least. Hopefully that'll fix the starting problem too.

Defender 300tdi won't start - need to get to work

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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Never Knowingly Understood

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

Retired - Living the dream

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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