Defender 200tdi - overheating problem

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Needalandy

Needalandy

Active Member
Posts
120
Location
Edinburgh
at the moment there is rarely a day goes by without yet another issue with my Pain in the ass Landy. So the story goes I took her for a wee run in the country yesterday and I noticed the temp gauge was maxxed out in the red. I stopped lifted the bonnet and left her to cool down for 10 minutes. I opened the expansion tank and there was a little fart of pressure, you know what I mean ie not much. The level was down slightly but there was plenty fluid in it. No signs of leaks anywhere. When I started her up again the gauge went straight to max red again which I didn't expect

So looking for advice on how to get to the bottom of this please? I think possibilities are
Faulty sender thing
Thermostat
Water pump

Any others ?
Can someone explain in simple speak how I check each thing to get to a solution please?
Also is it ok to drive the car in this state? I think not but guess it depends what's wrong.

Many thanks
 
no response to this so far but I have an update. I started the car up from cold half an hour ago and it climbed to max temp with a minute. The engine is still stone cold and the radiator hoses are cold/luke warm. This tells me it must be a faulty sender ( I could be wrong here so correct me). I unbolted the sensor and gave it a clean and re-attached it but still the same. I guess I should just replace it and hope for the best.
Am I on the right track here or not?
 
Check the earths, they can cause spurious readings.

Pop a jump lead from battery negative to engine block somewhere near the sender, if the gauge reads normal then that's your problem.
 
Retroanaconda said:
Check the earths, they can cause spurious readings.

Pop a jump lead from battery negative to engine block somewhere near the sender, if the gauge reads normal then that's your problem.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response. I tried that and no difference so earth is ok. I put a voltmeter on the sensor and as the gauge goes up the voltage reduces. So my assumption is that either the sensor is faulty or it's the gauge although I would have thought if the guage was faulty it wouldn't read at all ?

Any advice on what I should try next would be appreciated. Thinking should just order a sensor
 
I had a similar problem; In my case it was a faulty sender unit. I went through three sender units within 18 months. They were the sort that came in a blue box. I changed to one from Bearmch and its been fine ever since, that was about two years ago.
 
By the way of update on this. Whilst the sender appears to be the reason for the issue so I've just ordered one. fingers crossed. I opened up the instrument binnacle today and all the wiring feeding the gauge seems to be in the right place. If the new sender doesn't solve it I will just have to replace the gauge next.
 
Needalandy said:
thanks Lynall that's of interest to me. how do you fit them ?
Click to expand...

Fits in the exact same hole in the dash, run the small bore copper pipe out through the grommets in the bulkhead down to the engine and then to the sensor position, screw in the adaptor, screw in new sender job done, use same bulb and holder to light up new gauge.

In reality the only time a 200 ever gets close to being hot is slow hard off road work and if you still have the viscous fan fitted even thats not going to happen, tough as old boots doesnt come close to a 200, they wont go fast but will go on for a very long time.
 
Is this a converted one or genuine defender because you could well have a mismatch in sender gauge and a small rise will max it out when it's only just over halfway on the gauge? Has it always read slightly higher than halfway?
 
It's a pre defender with a defender 200tdi engine. Up until the weekend it used to read round about 1/4 mark consistently. Now it's as far to the right as it can go. So it's a new fault that's developed. I'm pretty certain the engine isn't overheating, all the hoses feel normal. I've ordered a new sender so we'll see what happens when I fit this. If it makes no difference I will move on to replace the gauge next.
 
If it was reading 1/4 then that's correct. People skimp When fitting disco engines in and don't spend the extra £14 that will possibly save them the engine. Sen many of these conversions sold on and they were **** poor. Sounds although you have a goodun!
 
lynall said:
The capilliary temp gauges are well worth the little effort needed to fit, are 100 accurate and require no power to work.
Ive got one of these on both my 200tdi, have worked well for last 4/5 years.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIM-Mecha...542214?hash=item4623375f86:g:SNsAAOSwaNBUeapk
Click to expand...

Exactly the gauge I fitted based on your recommendation. Work perfect and allows me to keep a close eye on the temp. So accurate you can see the thermostat opening.

Let's not even start talking about thermostats and the difference between the various manufacturers.... even tho they are all 88c stats......
 
lynall said:
Fits in the exact same hole in the dash, run the small bore copper pipe out through the grommets in the bulkhead down to the engine and then to the sensor position, screw in the adaptor, screw in new sender job done, use same bulb and holder to light up new gauge.

In reality the only time a 200 ever gets close to being hot is slow hard off road work and if you still have the viscous fan fitted even thats not going to happen, tough as old boots doesnt come close to a 200, they wont go fast but will go on for a very long time.
Click to expand...

Hi Lynall
Fitted new sender today and hasn't resolved it. I'll order the mechanical gauge you suggested. In your post you mentioned an adaptor and new sender. Just wanted to check does the adaptor come with the gauge or do I need to order that separately? Also, I assume I can use my existing (replacement) sender or do I need to order that separately to match the gauge?

Thanks
 
The capilliary gauge is a purely mechanical device and has a 6 foot long really small bore copper pipe attaching the sender to the gauge, basically its a one piece unit, it totally replaces the whole kit you have and works by itself no power etc even works with ign off.

Remove dash 4 screws and pop off the speedo cable, fit gauge with simple supplied clamp to dash and route the tiny pipe through bulkhead grommet down to stat housing, leave some slack in the dash as it makes dash removal easier in the future.

The adaptor it came with fitted both my disco 200 tdi engines, but others have said they had to get a different threaded one.
 
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