Defender 110 CSW TD5 failed sniff test

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versteckt

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Afternoon all,

I'm the new owner of a Defender 110 CSW TD5. Unfortunately - albeit typically - I'm experiencing some problems and I'd thoroughly appreciate some help.

After receiving the car I soon noticed the overflow tank bubbling after any extended drive. This came to a head after a short stint on the A road, when it boiled over and started steaming out.

I pulled over and most of the coolant had been dumped. I topped it up and crawled home, fortunately with no issues. This happened once more.

So as a cheap first step I replaced the thermostat and overflow cap. I've took it easy since and no steam so far, however, the coolant is heating up very quickly and bubbling after a short drive.

Fearing the worst I did a sniff test (Reld) and it failed almost instantly.

So, I'm prepared to change the gasket and inspect the head myself. However, I'd like to rule out any other possibility whilst I'm there.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers.
 
I am not a Td5 owner but do know head gasket fail is common enough. Also check oil for milky deposits [ coolant ] and steamy exhaust another symptom that can happen. What year is yours?
 
I'll check the oil cheers. No issues with exhaust as of yet.

Worth mentioning - I also checked the coolant for oil and I couldn't see any.

It's a 2000.
 
lynall said:
Google td5 plastic cylinder head dowels.
Click to expand...
I came across this issue in my searches. Though I appreciate the input regardless. Thank you.

I was planning on replacing the plastic dowels with the steel dowels when changing the gasket.

I'm just trying to cancel out it being anything other than the head/head gasket before getting started. To be frank, my knowledge of cars - particularly engines - is limited.
 
versteckt said:
I came across this issue in my searches. Though I appreciate the input regardless. Thank you.

I was planning on replacing the plastic dowels with the steel dowels when changing the gasket.

I'm just trying to cancel out it being anything other than the head/head gasket before getting started. To be frank, my knowledge of cars - particularly engines - is limited.
Click to expand...
Early td5 is going to be head gasket.
They like them as much as the 200 and 300 do.
 
Early td5 heads were known for cracking around the exhaust ports, leading to pressuring the coolant and blowing water out the overflow on the expansion tank when pushed
Once head is off, have it checked for cracks before re fitting
 
Quick update.

Attempting to do this myself with some new tools and naive optimism.

Gave up today from fear of breaking something.

I'm up to disconnecting the fuel cooler and struggling to disconnect the hose shown in the picture (black cap).

Any help appreciated!

Cheers.

1000051374.jpg
 
Hi from Australia. Doing the same job right now and also stuck on the fuel cooler. What was your epiphany?
 
If you're stuck on the same hose - push the black cap towards the hose, ie. away from the cooler and towards the fuel regulator.

It made an audible click and pulled straight off.
 
Hey folks,

Hit a roadblock so hoping for some advice.

Story time.

I had some issues removing the 13mm bolt on the bell housing, which plugs the hole used for the flywheel locking pin. It was already rounded when I got to it and then much more so after some failed attempts with extractors, fluted sockets, a Dremel, and a blowtorch.

Eventually a friend welded a nut to it and we got it off. Wahey.

Now when I tried to insert the pin I noticed there was no hole for it and I was screwing against what can best be described as a "plate?". I was getting about a quarter of the way down the thread before bottoming out (see attached).

Feeling I'd somehow messed up the camshaft timing pin I thought I'd remove that and try locking It. It really does not want to come out.

Now I'm concerned I've potentially shafted something and before I do any more damage I thought I'd ask here for some advice.

The pins can be found on eBay under the name "Laser Tools Timing Pins - Land Rover TD5 - 4052".

Pinned cam position

1000054001.jpg


1000054002.jpg


Hole in bell housing for flywheel locking pin

1000054003.jpg


Flywheel locking pin depth

1000054004.jpg


Any advice appreciated.

Cheers.
 
I can wiggle the pin and rotate it with pliers. I'm wondering if I've somehow flared the end of it?

Attached an extra picture where you can see the pin lines up with the groove.
 

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OK back to square one. I got the cam pin out after some wrestling. Cranked all the way around again to TDC and they're still misaligned.

I can easily drop the pin in and out of the cam. The position seems dead on. However, the crank seems to be in exactly the same position it was before, ie. the wrong one.

As I was getting it to TDC I was periodically checking underneath and I could see the holes in the flywheel.

So now I'm not sure what to do. Can I pin the crank first?
 

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Being a 10p I think I would take it out and go right through it.
Do lots of little jobs like the fuel pressure regulator etc etc then you will know where you are at.
Put it back in with a new ECU and wiring and off you go....
 
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