Defender 110 CSW respray?

My 1994 defender 110 CSW is original at the moment but having put a new rear cross member on her I am toying with having her resprayed, as the strips on the back under the windows are rusty and there is the usual oxide marks on the doors etc. My question is can the metal strips be replaced without too much hassle, and whats the going rate for a respray? I want to keep her in her original white. Any answers greatfully received. Thanks

cheap one cash you would expect to pay £400-500 cash as you will have at least £100 of paint and materials

The strips at the back are the body cappings. In order to change them you will need to lift the upper sides off. They are a pain to do but I have rubbed a set down in the past, filled where required and then resprayed. I owned the landy for 2 years and they never bubbled up through again.

cliffclop said:

My 1994 defender 110 CSW is original at the moment but having put a new rear cross member on her I am toying with having her resprayed, as the strips on the back under the windows are rusty and there is the usual oxide marks on the doors etc. My question is can the metal strips be replaced without too much hassle, and whats the going rate for a respray? I want to keep her in her original white. Any answers greatfully received. Thanks

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Just replaced my capping with galvanised ones...piece a piddle to do. Undo roof bolts to the sides and bolts from side to cappings. Jack up roof and remove sides. Drill out the rivets that hold the cappings in place. Heat the cappings slightly to make the adhesive pliable and remove the cappings. Then put in new cappings using rivets and rebolt everything.

ratty said:

The strips at the back are the body cappings. In order to change them you will need to lift the upper sides off. They are a pain to do but I have rubbed a set down in the past, filled where required and then resprayed. I owned the landy for 2 years and they never bubbled up through again.

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Are you sure they didn't bubble through when it was on fire????:doh::doh:

Sirus said:

Are you sure they didn't bubble through when it was on fire????:doh::doh:

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My V8 weren't torched.:mooning:

Here's some before and after pics.

I'm considering which way to go paint wise, how much does roller painting or gloss painting devalue a county. ie a major no no or just do it

I hand painted mine in Nato Green with a brush. Looks the business! I did a good few coats, the stuff I used was about £35 a tin. Since the paint is a sort of 'satin' finish as opposed to glossy, it looks great.
If you're wanting to get a genuine glossy job then it needs spraying. But if your existing paint is shabby and in need of TLC then I would say go for it, IMO it can't devalue it if it looks better than it did before!

Langers said:

I hand painted mine in Nato Green with a brush. Looks the business! I did a good few coats, the stuff I used was about £35 a tin. Since the paint is a sort of 'satin' finish as opposed to glossy, it looks great.
If you're wanting to get a genuine glossy job then it needs spraying. But if your existing paint is shabby and in need of TLC then I would say go for it, IMO it can't devalue it if it looks better than it did before!

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Lets see a pic

There's one on my profile, but anyway here's a couple, first one from today;

You wanna come paint mine?

nathan5346 said:

You wanna come paint mine?

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haha

first of all I did it in a desert sand sort of colour, but I thought it looked a bit dodgy so I re-did it. wasted a bit of cash but it looks great now and loads of thick paint on it protecting it I spose. also it's really resistant to scratches as I found out today - went down a greenlane which turned out to be more overgrown than I thought, got out expecting to see big scratches all the way down, but nothing there at all - few marks but they come off with a sponge and a dab of water.

It's really not as hard as it seems, just be tidy with it and take your time on a nice day it'll look great.

I've considered several options including
respray
paint it like the banger boys white spirit/gloss
(sprayed on both cheap and easy to repaint)
nato colours
or rollered.

thing is deciding for the best, as anything other than a respray will need rubbing down loads if you wanted a respray later, that said nato colour seems easiest and mine is 19 years old and has a little hand painting

I doubt you'd get much more than a quick (poor) back street spray job on a 110 for £500 given the amount of stuff that should come off / should be properly masked off. If the paint is good quality 2 pack base and then 2 pack lacquer you'll probably be talking close to £500 for that alone (cobra paint cost me £350 full trade)

A proper job I would have thought will be closer to the £1500 - £2000 mark. IMHO you will be happier with a home paint job in the NATO green or anything else which you can touch up than a spray job where the lacquer will start peeling pretty quick, and the rust spots will come through etc etc.

An alternative if you want a nice spray job would be to do the prep yourself and then get someone to simply spray it - its nowhere near as difficult as it appears with the right materials and removing and putting all the bits back takes a long time, will cost a lot and is not difficult.

One other point - if you think that you are going to spray it again at a later date be careful of the paint that you use. For instance, anything with even a trace of silicone in it will eat into underlying paint and remain in it. The only real way to stop the silicon eating away at the two pack and bubbling through later is to strip back to bare metal and apply an epoxy sealer.

personally I was planning rubbing down spray putty and then two pack

A few ive painted with a roller;





my landy;

Spray putty is pretty good although the surface has to be near perfect before its any benefit - it doesn't fill very much.

I'd still lacquer afterwards to increase the strength of the finish though.