Dealership new key doesnt start

Michael Graber · Oct 8, 2017

The next story in my saga. A few months ago I got a spare key $230 from the dealership in Kansas City. I tried it this weekend and all the bells and lights come on but it will not start the auto. The original key still works fine. So what could have deactivated my brand new key from the dealership? Or did those rat bastard at the Land Rover / Jaguar Dealership just not know what they were doing? Here goes my third trip to the dealership 113 kilometers away for one spare key, like I got all the time in the world.

UPDATE
When I attempt to start the Freelander with the spare key recently purchase it won't turn over the engine HOWEVER, when I start it with the original key it starts just fine AND then the spare key will start it. I'm going to try to determine how long the Freelander must sit idle before the spare key wont work.
Update 2
The dealership can’t get a spare key without replacing the entire module. They are going to take the chip out of the original key and attach it near the module so any key will work. Cobbled up POS, God I hope they don’t break the chip

freelance · Oct 8, 2017

Not coded correctly to car ?

GrumpyGel · Oct 8, 2017

The key has a transponder in it that has a code - the code must be programmed into the car's computer or else it will immobilise the engine when you try to use it.

My early car has the transponder in the fob - but I'm sure your 2.5 will have it in the key.

When you lock the car there is a blinking LED on the dash. When you try to start the car and it is immobilised that light will turn on.

The dealership should have the necessary kit to program the key into the car's computer - whether they know how to use it is another matter!

Michael Graber · Oct 9, 2017

Thank you, when I spoke with the dealership their attitude was "We dont make mistakes". I go back on Friday hoping they can finish the job. I wasn't sure if there was something I could have done that would deactivate the key they sold me while still allowing the original to continue to work.

DanClarke · Oct 9, 2017

I recently had one of my keys stop working. They were BOTH properly coded to the car and were the originals.
Nothing I did made any difference until I attached a Nanocom diag box and cleared the RF memory. Then magically.... both my keys worked once more.
The £499 on the Nanocom has already saved me £138 on a new key etc.

Michael Graber · Oct 10, 2017

DanClarke said:
I recently had one of my keys stop working. They were BOTH properly coded to the car and were the originals.
Nothing I did made any difference until I attached a Nanocom diag box and cleared the RF memory. Then magically.... both my keys worked once more.
The £499 on the Nanocom has already saved me £138 on a new key etc.

It sounds like you are saying if the auto throws a code like an EVAP code it may deactivate the Key?

DanClarke · Oct 10, 2017

Michael Graber said:
It sounds like you are saying if the auto throws a code like an EVAP code it may deactivate the Key?

Hi Michael, No, the RF memory is all about the valid fob-codes the BeCM has seen. Sometimes it seems it gets a bit confused. It shouldn't, but it does. In my case, clearing the RF memory (Radio Frequency Codes) cleared things so it would recognise both of my entirely original keys. HTH.

Nodge68 · Oct 10, 2017

Michael Graber said:
It sounds like you are saying if the auto throws a code like an EVAP code it may deactivate the Key?

That's impossible as the key code information is stored in a completely different module to the auto box TCM or any other ECU. The Freelander has no less the 7 separate ECU's to cover different aspects of the vehicle. The engine immobilizer ECU is linked to the engine ECU via the CAN bus. If the immobilizer ECU doesn't recognise the key, it stops the engine from starting. The TCM while connected to the engine ECU on the CAN, can't interfere with the immobilizer ECU, even though it's on the same CAN network.

MollyNomad · Oct 10, 2017

Nodge68 said:
That's impossible as the key code information is stored in a completely different module tcompletely different module to the auto box Tseparate ECU's to cover different aspects of the vehicle. The engrecognise the key, it stops the engine from starting. The TCM while connected to the engine ECU on the CAN, can't inre with the immobilizer ECU, even though it's on the same CAN network.

[/QUOTE]

MollyNomad · Oct 10, 2017

[/QUOTE]
Ignore that last drivel...

td4van · Oct 11, 2017

Needs to be enabled/programmed so if this hasn’t taken place then the new key won’t work

Colthebrummie · Oct 11, 2017

Next time you visit the dealer to get the key sorted out, don't leave until you have tried starting the car with the new key but don't have the old key close to it.

Col

Alibro · Oct 14, 2017

Colthebrummie said:
Next time you visit the dealer to get the key sorted out, don't leave until you have tried starting the car with the new key but don't have the old key close to it.

Col

I was gonna ask too. Did you test it at the time?

Michael Graber · Oct 30, 2017

DanClarke said:
I recently had one of my keys stop working. They were BOTH properly coded to the car and were the originals.
Nothing I did made any difference until I attached a Nanocom diag box and cleared the RF memory. Then magically.... both my keys worked once more.
The £499 on the Nanocom has already saved me £138 on a new key etc.

I have to back track, it would appear other factors are involved. I spent $50 at NAPA and got a code reader (P0430 and P0455) Now the Key works.

DanClarke · Oct 31, 2017

Michael Graber said:
WOW!!! Solved. I spent $50 at NAPA and got a code reader (P0430 and P0455) Now the Key works.

Very pleased for you. Congrats. Now set all the vehicle options with your $50 "reader" ;-)

Nodge68 · Oct 31, 2017

Michael Graber said:
WOW!!! Solved. I spent $50 at NAPA and got a code reader (P0430 and P0455) Now the Key works.

Which code reader did you get?

Michael Graber · Oct 31, 2017

Nodge68 said:
Which code reader did you get?

NAPA Service Tools Professional 1500 series Code Hammer OBD2 tool www.innova.com. Dang I think NAPA ripped me off, I just seen this for $35

Michael Graber · Nov 2, 2017

Michael Graber said:
NAPA Service Tools Professional 1500 series Code Hammer OBD2 tool www.innova.com. Dang I think NAPA ripped me off, I just seen this for $35

I now suspect that I could take any blank key that would turn the tumbler would start the car if used within a few seconds of having started it with the factory original key. Or at least this is the case with the spare key that the dealership in Kansas City sold me.

GrumpyGel · Nov 2, 2017

So long as you have a programmed key somewhere near the barrel - you could hot wire it if you want. Not sure why you'd want to do that, but you could.

MollyNomad · Nov 2, 2017

Michael Graber said:
I now suspect that I could take any blank key that would turn the tumbler would start the car if used within a few seconds of having started it with the factory original key. Or at least this is the case with the spare key that the dealership in Kansas City sold me.

To make sure your 'new' key works you need to ensure that the 'functioning' key is no where near the ignition barrel. Best left in the house, then try to start the car. Usually these 'chips' need to be close(from 1 cm to 15 cm) from the induction ring within the ignition barrel for them to work. Further away the better is best!

Dealership new key doesnt start

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