Disco 2 Dash back lighting and switch illumination issue

an irritating issue.... especially at night !! All started from replacing a blown glove box light, replaced the lamp and ever since then the dash back light and switches illumination (hvac illumination etc etc) does not work... ie when turning the headlight switch to on, clock doesn't dim and there's no backlighting on the dash ie fuel, temp revs , speed.
checked fuses and everything seems ok, had a spare headlight stalk and replaced that thinking it might be an issue with the stalk...
any pointers would greatly be appreciated.

but the glovebox light you fitted works alone ? if not double check fuse F33 and if it's 100% good check if there is voltage on it

Just for fun, my fuel gauge light stopped working last summer, i.e. 2023.
Recently it has suddenly started working again.
And I too have no idea why!!!

sierrafery said:

but the glovebox light you fitted works alone ? if not double check fuse F33 and if it's 100% good check if there is voltage on it

Click to expand...

Hi, sorry for the delay.... been laid up for a while with some covid issues !!!
Anyway here goes.... D2 td5 auto 2003, started having issues with the alarm going off at random times, 3 in the morning etc ****ing the neighbours right off, then it stated randomly locking me out, inputting the EKA code gained me entry/starting no probs until the next episode. Having come across various issues from others regarding the BCU causing problems and having a chat with Paul at D2 parts decided to replace the BCU, living in France Paul duly sent one over, having a Nanocom (inherited with the car) I went ahead and changed the BCU.....following the instuctions that came with the BCU, EKA code was set and programmed the keys and proceeded to start. Started up first time, M and S lights on the dash were on....went for a spin something didn't seem right .....clagged the nano back up found that the gearbox was set to Manual, managed to reset to auto, M and S lights were gone, went for a drive all seemed ok, both fobs worked remotely, locked /unlocked okay, ignition no issues.
Then, I noticed the first time when the light was fading (evening) that there were no back lighting on the dash or Heater controls and the clock back-light doesn't dim when the main light switch is put to dipped. Thinking there could be an issue with the lighting stalk unit I replaced with a known working one to no avail,..... then got locked out, used EKA code to gain access, both fobs stopped working. All headlights, stop lights work I just have to have a small battery operated LED torch tactically positioned at night to see what speed I'm doing !!
So for the past couple of weeks I have been using the key manually to lock/unlock the car with no issues with driving at all.
To your question, Fuse 33, there's 12 v to it and the fuse is good, the glove box light still doesn't work even with the headlights on.
I'm not offay with the nanocom and a bit iffy with what could go sideways with changing settings while using it.
my regards
Russ T.

Hi. Replace the interior fusebox with 100% good one removed from a facelift, disconnect the battery before the swap then after reconnection turn ignition on(not crank) and let it so 5 minutes.

sierrafery said:

Hi. Replace the interior fusebox with 100% good one removed from a facelift, disconnect the battery before the swap then after reconnection turn ignition on(not crank) and let it so 5 minutes.

Click to expand...

I've read about the possible interior fuse panel issues with moisture, i assume that the 5 mins or so is for the IDM module to self learn/connect to BCU before starting. Also could there be an issue with the RF transmitter.. can this be tested on the nanocom ?

russ t said:

Also could there be an issue with the RF transmitter.. can this be tested on the nanocom ?

Click to expand...

Yes, there is a RF test in BCU - Utility