Cornishdefender
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No earth at front as far as we could discover - all those earths come back to the bullhead on ours.
Continued indicator electrickery woes
- Thread starter Cornishdefender
- Start date
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freelance
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If the body is earthed properly to the chassis and battery, I suspect there is a connection that has been crimped onto insulation rather than bare wire in your circuit
Cornishdefender
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Slowly putting everything back together now. Had a good clean and refasten of the main earth points on the chassis and gearbox. Made no difference to the issue of all indicators going and dim dash light with left turn on stalk applied.
Did a good check of all the wires coming off the back of the binnacle and around the gauges etc - again couldn't find anything and no change in the error.
Have removed the dash light for the time being and am slowly putting everything back together, checking all the way. So far the harness loom to the front left has been rewrapped and everything connected and put back in place and everything still works.
Considering our Defender is relatively basic in the electrics department it's astonishing how many wires there are!
Did a good check of all the wires coming off the back of the binnacle and around the gauges etc - again couldn't find anything and no change in the error.
Have removed the dash light for the time being and am slowly putting everything back together, checking all the way. So far the harness loom to the front left has been rewrapped and everything connected and put back in place and everything still works.
Considering our Defender is relatively basic in the electrics department it's astonishing how many wires there are!
bluedog333
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Have you inspected the l/h side-repeater? Was this also changed to led?
Cornishdefender
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No - the repeaters were left as the original filament lamps.
bluedog333
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Do they work properly with the l/h indicator switch engaged?
Cornishdefender
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Hi - everything works as it should now, but only if the dash light is removed.
We have LED indicators, side lights and rear lights/brake lights. The headlamps and side repeaters are original filament type.
We have LED indicators, side lights and rear lights/brake lights. The headlamps and side repeaters are original filament type.
bluedog333
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Can’t remember if you have or not, but have you measured what voltage you were getting at the indicators when they were on?
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Ah, a resistive load application ?
mystery
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is the dash light a LED as it would be polarity sensitive and stop the one side from working
Cornishdefender
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As has been mentioned a few times, plus is discussed on other LR fora,this issue does seem to be a peculiarity of fitting LEDs to the Defender that has the single dash indicator light that illuminates whichever side is activated. It's just curious that it only came up recently, given we've had the LEDs in situ for several years. It's probably not a coincidence that it happened after chasing down a fault on the LH front indicator circuit, maybe the chaffed wires in that part of the loom had counteracted the known problem, so it only surfaced once I'd repaired those cores.
No we haven't done any load testing - just happy that we have a solution that will get Landy back on the road.
Thanks for all the input.
No we haven't done any load testing - just happy that we have a solution that will get Landy back on the road.
Thanks for all the input.
Hicap phill
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Mine when fitted had the led relay with a load sensor in it. You turn the knob to activate the dash light. Mine is a 85 & would not work.
People say this is the problem others say the earth dash bulb is the way to go.
Have you got that type of relay? (Seen as everything was working) it may have failed)
People say this is the problem others say the earth dash bulb is the way to go.
Have you got that type of relay? (Seen as everything was working) it may have failed)
Cornishdefender
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Hi - no we don't have a relay. The LED set was purchased from an LR outfit (eg Paddocks or similar) and was sold as direct plug and play for each light, no mention of resistors/relays etc required.
bluedog333
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You may still need an led-specific relay, I think the ‘plug-and-play’ just means the wiring plugs are fitted for you. I could be completely wrong though!
Hicap phill
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Yep you should have a led relay.unless you fit ballast resistors to fool the normal relays
Cornishdefender
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Ok - point taken. Do we need a relay at each LED light or just in each indicator, brake, side light circuit somewhere? Still curious as to why has it all worked without an issue for 4 plus years?
bluedog333
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Just need the one relay, it should be behind the main fuse board. It might be correct, definitely worth noting what’s there though. It’s strange how its worked fine all these years - but that’s Land Rover electrics for you! Remember, you ought to have the indicator tell-tale lamp working for MoT time, unless you have a friendly tester of course!
Hicap phill
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Will take a photo later of the indicator relay. As you have standard side repeaters this may be the reason you can use a standard relay.
(all to do with how many watts the system draws LEDs don’t use many)
Have a check to see what type you have.
Look behind the fuse panel
Cornishdefender
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Hmmmm - took a photo of the relay by the fuses, and it appears it *is* a WIPAC LED relay. OH is adamant he didn't fit it when he did the LED light switch.
Have already ordered a new one so will fit it and see if the dash light issue gets resolved.
Otherwise will go the dash light earth fix route.
Have already ordered a new one so will fit it and see if the dash light issue gets resolved.
Otherwise will go the dash light earth fix route.
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Hicap phill
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Correct relay for LEDs.
Have you turned that knob on the top? It may make the dash light come on((it’s what it’s meant to do so you won’t blow anything up)
