D2 front driveshaft seal

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Anaconda

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Anyone else have a problem with these seals?
Fitted an "OEM" seal which lasted 100 miles or so. I say oem as the supplier could not and would not tell me the manufacturer name, got a refund.
Bought two NAK seals, these were VERY difficult to fit and seem to be slightly oversize to the point of damaging one of them.
The one I was successful in fitting also seems to have started to leak.
Is there an answer to another endless Land Rover related nightmare as the NAK seals seem to be the ones to fit?
 
I ended up paying somebody to rectify down 0.5mm from the shafts after half a dozen of seals failed one after another, genuine LR, Corteco, OEM, NAK included... then fitted the last pair i had some aftermarkets(iirc Allmakes) which are still leakless after about 20K km. IMO at a point somebody messed up something in the manufacturing process of these seals and seems that all of them are too tight regardless of brand even though NAK ones seemed to be the best
 
sierrafery said:
I ended up paying somebody to rectify down 0.5mm from the shafts after half a dozen of seals failed one after another, genuine LR, Corteco, OEM, NAK included... then fitted the last pair i had some aftermarkets(iirc Allmakes) which are still leakless after about 20K km. IMO at a point somebody messed up something in the manufacturing process of these seals and seems that all of them are too tight regardless of brand even though NAK ones seemed to be the best
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Thanks for the reply.
Looks like it's going to be another headache of a job then.
 
Measure the ID of seals and if it's below 35.9mm they'll fail in no time, 36mm was the original ID of the seals long time ago then at a point for some odd reason they all became 35mm or less which is the same with the OD of the shaft(mudshield) and that's too tight, i found the pics from an old thread in other forum where this issue was discussed:

here's the OD of the mudshield from factory(IMO it was 35 and this might have a 0.03mm wear)
1709760580372.png



here's the ID of a used genuine LR seal fitted from factory:
1709760424049.png


and here is the ID of a new type seal:

1709760767851.png


There must be at least 0.6 up to 1 mm difference between the OD of the shaft and ID of seal as to last and not leak otherwise the shaft "chews" the rubber and it fails in no time that's a fact... that's why after a long struggle my shafts were machined down and now any seal is good for me... unless there will be many complains to the menufacturers and they'll come back to the 36 OD seals :vb-headbang:
 
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Funny enough the company I bought the "oem" seals from said they had sold thousands and never had a problem with them!
Although they don't cost alot I asked for a refund out of principle. Which they did as an offer of good will.
 
Anaconda said:
Funny enough the company I bought the "oem" seals from said they had sold thousands and never had a problem with them!
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Maybe they never had a problem cos they dont own a D2 to replace them :cool: ... also IMO the sellers are not to be blamed that the manufacturers messed things up with these seals
 
sierrafery said:
Maybe they never had a problem cos they dont own a D2 to replace them :cool: ... also IMO the sellers are not to be blamed that the manufacturers messed things up with these seals
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Not blaming the seller ,as such, for the quality of the part but they hard a poor attitude in regards of never having a problem. I guess quire often most people just accept the seal is crap an fit another as they are only £5.
Same supplier had to refund the non working brake calipers so I had lost a bit of patience with them.
 
I put genuine ones in mine and they pushed in easily with a piece of tube, I didnt even have to tap it. No leaks yet 🫣

However mine wasnt leaking before, I replaced as I was doing balljoints so seemed a good time to do them
 
I used these from LRdirect, FTC4822.C8. As above, mine weren’t leaking, I just thought it a good idea to change them when doing the swivel ball joints. That was nearly 5 years ago and so far, all OK.🤞🤞
 
Wow, I have had the same problem on a P38, seal will start leaking within 100km of fitting, no matter what. Just accepted it and have been driving like that as I thought it needed a new shaft and wasn't prepared to throw the money. Will take the shaft to a machine shop after reading this.
 
Kev12 said:
I put genuine ones in mine and they pushed in easily with a piece of tube, I didnt even have to tap it. No leaks yet 🫣

However mine wasnt leaking before, I replaced as I was doing balljoints so seemed a good time to do them
Click to expand...

PopPops said:
I used these from LRdirect, FTC4822.C8. As above, mine weren’t leaking, I just thought it a good idea to change them when doing the swivel ball joints. That was nearly 5 years ago and so far, all OK.🤞🤞
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Lucky guys... maybe you've got seals from the old batch... anyway at this time the best is to measure the ID of the seals and if they are not 36mm but around 35 better not fit them in vain
 
sierrafery said:
Lucky guys... maybe you've got seals from the old batch... anyway at this time the best is to measure the ID of the seals and if they are not 36mm but around 35 better not fit them in vain
Click to expand...
Ive only done about 1500 miles since I changed them. I'll have to keep an eye on them 🫣
 
When I did mine back in 21 I ordered 2 NAK ones (on SF's recommendations at the time) & thankfully the it's been fine since, done 15,000 miles since. I only replaced the one that was leaking & I've just been looking for my 'spare' to measure it for peeps but can't find it.:rolleyes:
 

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Andy Warren said:
When I did mine back in 21 I ordered 2 NAK ones (on SF's recommendations at the time) & thankfully the it's been fine since, done 15,000 miles since. I only replaced the one that was leaking & I've just been looking for my 'spare' to measure it for peeps but can't find it.:rolleyes:
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Was it a tight fit in the axle tube?
The first one distorted going in and the 2nd one needed a proper beating to get it in.
 
No I don't recall having any issues fitting it, just cleaned it all up, found a suitable 'installer' probably a deep socket & that was that.
 

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Glad I ordered two of those seals for one corner.
Allmakes brand, did not measure them, and they were the only ones avail I could get in time for this weekend.
And, well, the seller did not say on their website what brand they were.

I used a 36mm socket to put it in, and it ended up cutting the seal...

But oh boy did I get annoyed not getting sockets to the bearing bolts.
Almost had the angle grinder in hand when I realised, HEY, turn the wheels dummy! 🤣

New ESEN bearing in and all brake parts to be ordered as the sliders are completely stuck and I need to drive it daily.
 
I'm now at 2500 miles since replacement and the genuines are leaking :mad:

Got a pair of the NAKs here so thats a job for today. Will investigate and report findings
 
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