Cylinder Head Bolts

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if they aren't torque to yield bolts then you can reuse them - tis very simple


so for those of us that manage with what we can glean from others and no physics degrees.. are the bolts on my car torque to yield.. and if you don't know what's a good way of working it out without having to assk what is obviously such a stupid question???

(I asked the guy in the shop, he said dunno.. I bought some just in case... cost me more than the top end gasket set but I'd rather do a job right... )
 
so for those of us that manage with what we can glean from others and no physics degrees.. are the bolts on my car torque to yield.. and if you don't know what's a good way of working it out without having to assk what is obviously such a stupid question???

(I asked the guy in the shop, he said dunno.. I bought some just in case... cost me more than the top end gasket set but I'd rather do a job right... )

thats my way of thinking put new bolts in,no more problems like having to take the head back of again.:)
 
I don't know either to be honest.
I'm only going on the name of the bolt i.e 'a stretch bolt'. If it does exactly what it says on the tin then you would assume that it is being torqued to yield. Thats the only way to stretch a bolt, exceed the elastic deformation into the plastic so that when the load comes off, the bolt is longer than it was.
Whats unclear is whether the P38 bolts are such.
Do you just tighten them to a torque like every other bolt on the car? Is that torque a yield torque?
I don't know so like a lot of you I personally would take the safe route of putting new ones in everytime. A blown headgasket will cost you many times the cost of the bolts and thats not including the inconvenience and stress. I've been down that road once before and I'm not going there again in a hurry.
Pennywise pound foolish IMHO
 
you know waht though.. I still don't know the flipping answer.. knowing more than me I can handle, knowing more than me and wanting to be all superior and keep the knowledge to yourself makes me think maybe it's all just hot air and actually you don't know at all..

I've just done a bit of googling and it appears that generally if the manual says to oil the bolts that is because they are stretch bolts.. if that helps anyone.. seeing as them wot think they know don't wanna tell us in case it's wrong..
 
Kinell Gav its takeing longer than my tdi conversion but i suspect we may be even on engine in and outs:D:D:eek:

well hopefully this will be the last time it comes out, gotta say i'm gonna miss taking the engine out every weekend. lifes just not gonna be the same!!

on a plus side tho its not costing me any fuel and i havnt felt the price increase yet!!! lol!!!:doh::doh::doh::doh:
 
i'd rather boil my head in battery acid than drive a diesel. i hate em, no power, dead at 3000 revs and theres never enough gears to get up to a decent speed without your eardrums bursting due to the clatter. mind you the 2.0 diesel passat engine( 07 ish plate, also fitted to jeep patriot i think) on the sport type i had from insurance company had plenty to give once you got revs up but then hire cars are always faster than your own, dunno why:D:D:D
 
reet - here are copies of 2 pages from the rave....

first off it says discard the old bolts.
secondly it says oil the new bolts - which implies plastic deformation.

In the absence of a more specific statement, I would replace the bolts.
 

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at last the definitive answer,change the ruddy bolts then all is well.:D

not really

at some point during production they changed from using non stretch to stretch bolts - if your not sure what you've got change them - if you can be bothered to look up the spec do so as it may well save you some money, unless you really want to be throwing money down the drain

each to their own
 
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