Cruise jammed in ON position!!!!!!!!!!

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the hooded claw

Well-Known Member
Cruise Control Jammed in ON position

Went for a drive today & decided to flip on the Cruise ..... It didn't work (No surprise there!!) after couple of mins rangie speeds up & cruise clicks in ....It WOULDN'T SWITCH OFF!!!!! ...So there I am Hammering along Hit the Brakes & Popped it into "N" Rev go thru the roof & I switch off .....

Thinks fer a bit & decides to start her up Pop into "D" & get home ... Get a "Gearbox Fault" light Gets home & looks under the hood Bellows are sucked flat ....Disconnects the Cable retainer ring (to allow throttle to return to normal) ...after 10 mins or so Bellows are back to "Normal"

Things I need to know ....... the Gearbox fault light has gone now ...WHY did it pop up in the first place ??? & what MIGHT I have done in dropping it into drive with the revs at well over 5K ????


& WTF caused the Cruise to Jam on!!????​
 
IT SHOULD HAVE RELEASED WHEN YOU HIT THE BRAKES ,deffinate fault in there somewere,usually you cant get em to work not tother way round,i would suggest an electrical fault ie not disconnecting it.they release when you brake ,change down,press the clutch or acellerator,or switch of at the dash normally ....dave
 
sounds like the cruise control ECU is faulty. as for gearbox fault warning, well its a P38 what can i say, when is there never a warning light or message on for no reason. sorry dig over.
doubt any damage done dropping it in gear at high rev,as it drives at high revs does it not.i would however disconnect the C\C so this does not happen again and get it put on scanner to see what faults show up. hope this helps. but i am sore the lads with the
p38's will have more ideas, cavey and gav are always clued up
 
With the same 4hp22 box on a bmw (if thats what you have) it says not to rev it to over 2k in neutral or park as it can damage torque convertor, but if its still driving ok I wouldnt worry!
 
Check the connections to brake switch, cc ecu and cc pump. You should find that one or more are corroded. Check also the cc switch on the dash.

As for the fault, I wouldn't worry too much, it comes up for any reason it seems. A cursory check underneath won't hurt tho!!!

If you can get the codes read all the better.

Have a look at the switches on the steering wheel, see if they are free. Give them a firm press a few times, it may just be a stcky switch or even dodgy rotary coupler.

Let us know how you go on after these checks
 
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