complete loss of power

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Witch1

New Member
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9
hi All I'm at my wits end as soon as my disco TD5 (53 plate) warms up I can lose all power it might be a mile down the road or more but it can be going fine then suddenly power goes completely no warning at all last time I was trying to over take a lorry (normally no problem) when the power just started dropping off lorry sped up I managed to get off the A road just before all power went. I had had the injector seals replaced before this started happening by a land rover garage but have taken to a different garage to try and sort the problem out as no error messages are showing, so far I have had a new fuel pump as they thought this was the issue (still did it) and a new camshaft senor (original garage thought this might be the problem) but it's still doing it
any suggestions greatly received?
 
Do you have any trouble codes from a Land Rover specific diagnostic tool?
I'm not a Td5 expert but I believe there is a crankshaft position sensor that can go bad like on the V8 engine. When that goes bad, the engine turns over but doesn't run.
 
Do you have any trouble codes from a Land Rover specific diagnostic tool?
I'm not a Td5 expert but I believe there is a crankshaft position sensor that can go bad like on the V8 engine. When that goes bad, the engine turns over but doesn't run.
I think he might have meant that by "camshaft senor" and not someone eSpanish!
But +1 for what you said.
Other thing I'd check with the engine running and data being recorded, is the MAP/IAT sensor, the MAF don't matter, the engine would run fine with it disconnected.
 
Hi, welcome to the asylum :).
You can try unplugging the MAF sensor (see pics) then take it for a run & see if it's better (secure the cable once disconnected so it can't drop on to the auxiliary belt/pulleys once the engine is running).
 

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Hi, so it didnt do that before the injector seals were replaced?

and btw
a new camshaft senor (original garage thought this might be the problem) but it's still doing it
there is no such thing on a Td5 ....if that original garage who replaced the seals said that it's possible that they messed up something there cos it seems they have no ideea about Td5s , there is only a crankshaft sensor but if that fails it will trigger the EML and log a fault code


now.. when the power drops can you still rev it up stationary to above 3000rpm? ... also is it manual or auto?

first of all check the ECU red plug for oil
 
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Hee hee, by the time & I had written mine there was only one reply then when I posted it.......... :rolleyes:, all the best. Forgot about the red ecu plug/oil contamination as mentioned by the guru :).
TBH I read about the "oil in the red plug" issue all the time. I had it on mine so replaced the cylinder head loom.
I still get it, often, just clean it out.
It seems to make no difference.
But I'd never tell anyone to ignore it.
All the best.;)
 
Would collapsing/delaminating intercooler pipes bring up a fault ? Good for loss of power I know.
no, they would not bring up a code... that's why i asked about revving it up stationary cos then no boost is needed so it can be a starting point even though a live data log would be the real thing as usual but i know that's hard for some people
 
Would collapsing/delaminating intercooler pipes bring up a fault ? Good for loss of power I know.
This is exactly what happened when one of my brand new, silicone, intercooler pipes slipped off last Christmas. Made driving up the hill to our place we were renting in the Dales, very interesting. Luckily easily fixed.
Worth checking for the obvious I suppose!
 
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Do you have any trouble codes from a Land Rover specific diagnostic tool?
I'm not a Td5 expert but I believe there is a crankshaft position sensor that can go bad like on the V8 engine. When that goes bad, the engine turns over but doesn't run.
no codes at all are showing when it stops there is nothing it doesn't even turn over complete silence then when the engine has cooled down it will start again but once warm again there it goes again and stops
 
I think he might have meant that by "camshaft senor" and not someone eSpanish!
But +1 for what you said.
Other thing I'd check with the engine running and data being recorded, is the MAP/IAT sensor, the MAF don't matter, the engine would run fine with it disconnected.
Garage at the moment is trying everything they've had power measuring things and fuel thingy's that measure the fuel going through attached while running but nothing is showing as dropped down in power or fuel not getting through either
 
Hi, so it didnt do that before the injector seals were replaced?

and btw

there is no such thing on a Td5 ....if that original garage who replaced the seals said that it's possible that they messed up something there cos it seems they have no ideea about Td5s , there is only a crankshaft sensor but if that fails it will trigger the EML and log a fault code


now.. when the power drops can you still rev it up stationary to above 3000rpm? ... also is it manual or auto?

first of all check the ECU red plug for oil
it's manual, and when the power drops there is nothing it doesn't rev nothing works at all and no before they did the seals it was working fine
 
Hi, so once it's cut out & come to a halt are you saying the electrics are dead " won't even turn over" no lights on the dash or does it turn over ok but just won't restart until it's cooled down? If you're getting 'temporary 'complete electrical failure then you maybe have a faulty ignition switch.
 
I have nothing no electrics no brakes (except handbrake) won't turn over ( had a new starter motor)no lights on the dash but headlights and indicators work fine just the engine is completely silent but you can hear the fuel pump if you're outside when you turn the key over
 
I have nothing no electrics no brakes (except handbrake) won't turn over ( had a new starter motor)no lights on the dash but headlights and indicators work fine just the engine is completely silent but you can hear the fuel pump if you're outside when you turn the key over
On that note I'd be here for some fist class help :) but maybe a fuse box issue, under the dash drivers side, would be my first port of call to check (internal corrosion along with the wiring block connectors) having said that I would wait for sierrafery to come along as electrically he knows these things inside out, sorry I can't be of more help but hope you get this sorted, best of luck.
 
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