Clutch spiral pins replacement (P38 1995 2.5 DT)

RangeRoller dt said:

So how did you get the box(Es) in and out

Engine crane through centre console?

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First time a friend had a 4-poster ramp I could borrow. Second and third time a less than ideal adapter to fit where the centre cross-member does that goes in my trolley-jack. A scissor jack for a motorcycle would be better.

Worth mentioning at this stage that on the third time I replaced the bushes and dust cover on the clutch-fork lever. These should be Teflon coated but mine had worn through to the brass. That leaves a tiny bit of room for dirt and friction material to get in and the extra resistance is enough to snap the pins. My fix of double-pinning with a rivet shaft hid the problem which then manifested as clutch-slipping behaviour six months later. 2 clutches later I finally put 2 and 2 together.

1)So I could do it with a trolley jack and something knocked up to cradle it
2) don’t put rivets up the spiral pins as I had thought to do?

RangeRoller dt said:

1)So I could do it with a trolley jack and something knocked up to cradle it
2) don’t put rivets up the spiral pins as I had thought to do?

Click to expand...

1) Well, motorcycle jack would be best. Need a smooth surface as it is quite heavy unless you take the transfer box off.
2) I put rivets back in mine, just to be safe. The key point is them snapping was the first sign all was not well.

Here's a picture of how bad it can get!

Together with a few pictures of the offending bushes. They just press in and out.

This is the type of lift i used works very well with a bit of kitchen work top on top
if you do yours split the box and transfer much easier to handle on your own
all done on the drive with wheels still touching the ground just stands under chassis.