Clutch pedal staying on floor

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CharlesY said:
That may well be true Dear James, and as you are such an expurt (not a typo) one supposes you believe you are right, and everyone else is wrong, as usual.

Calm down James, and try to restrict your activities to that which is within your capabilities. Have you graduated to Lego yet?
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i thought you lived on the suburbs and just visited thick **** town every now and then didnt realise you where living in the town center ,come on youve got me hooked charlsey im starting to suffer:D:D
 
Hi James,

Yes, lapping valves can seem like a tedious task, but if it is done well, the results justify the effort. The huge reduction in valve-head temperatures after good lapping makes it worthwhile, The valves and the guides will last forever after that.

I generally do all the exhaust valves first, on the theory that as they matter most, if I do them first I won't skimp on them.

When I can get access, I try to use a battery drill on the valve stems to rotate the valves. Sometime access is tricky, and then I put a stub of a drill bit into the chuck, and a length of plastic tube on that, and shove the open end of the tube onto the valve stem. It can be turned and lifted just fine, and is a whole lot more effective than a stick with a rubber sucker on the end.

In the olden days some valves had a slot milled into their heads so a screwdriver could be used to turn them.

It's one of those jobs worth doing well it it is worth doing at all.

CharlesY

PS I live in the countryside, with a wee bitty of land to play on.
 
fredrikarnell said:
Hi all!

I did a clutch bleed a couple of days ago on a 1997 Def 110 300 Tdi with an R380 - all went fine with fluid coming out using a one-man bleeding kit (the-hose-into-jar type). As expected the clutch pedal went to the floor, stayed there, and had to be pulled up for each bleed pump (a total of 5 pumps). The thing now is that since the bleed, the clutch will not self-return, but rather stays at the floor every time when depressed.

Why would this be? The reservoir was never allowed to go very low on fluid so I would not suspect air in the system. Nor any major mechanical clutch failure as this happen when bleeding.

Any ideas? Would be very greatful as googling has yielded very poor results.
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Hi,

sorry for the diversion while James and I had a chat!

How's your clutch?

Any diagnosis yet?

Or progress even?

CharlesY
 
CharlesY said:
Hi,

sorry for the diversion while James and I had a chat!

How's your clutch?

Any diagnosis yet?

Or progress even?

CharlesY
Click to expand...

First, yeez, what load of crap the last 20 posts :eek: Anyway, thanks all for the posts that did contain useful information. :)

I am bleeding it again tomorrow to see if the master just gulped a load of air as the fluid level did get down quite far before filling during the last bleed. If I am reading it right, the line on the master saying "fluid level" should mean "min fluid level" I suppose.

Just to get the story - it was working perfectly before the bleed, so no missing springs, parts or anything (and to the point, the tratter only has 23k miles on the clock). Something might have broken yes. But let's bleed first and hope for the best. I will keep you updated on what it led to.
 
keep reservoir full there are only 3 pumps of pedal held in it ,fluid is sucked from res when letting pedal up so if low get someone to top it up before letting pedal up
 
jamesmartin said:
keep reservoir full there are only 3 pumps of pedal held in it ,fluid is sucked from res when letting pedal up so if low get someone to top it up before letting pedal up
Click to expand...

I believe I read that somewhere - since I might have done 5 or so without topping up it might just be that :D
 
Hi all! Bled the clutch today - and guess what! The system was jam packed with air. No wonder. Mystery solved - the cheap way! THanks all!
 
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