Clutch pedal adjustment - am I missing something?

huffhuff · Jan 26, 2016

Hi all,

My clutch biting point has been within 2/3mm of the top of the pedal for a few months now. It doesn't seem to be getting worse and there is no slipping or issues changing gear etc.. So, I thought it might just need some adjustment (having read the book, measuring pedal to floor etc. about 10mm out).

I've taken the plate and gasket off the master cylinder, I know I need to loosen the push-rod nuts, but have no tool that will fit in there, spanners too big. How are other people doing it? Am I missing something completely? I can't even get long-nose pliers in there to get purchase!

Thanks in advance....

reiny · Jan 26, 2016

I asked the same question recently and the best answer I got is to use a ring spanner with a slot cut in it. To be quite honest I think it's easier to remove the whole pedal box, clamp it in a vice and work that way.

jimwyllie · Jan 26, 2016

The easy way is to grind down the sides of an open ended spanner. When you are adjusting pedal height slack nuts right off. Then when pedal height is OK tighten the nuts. With nuts slackened off the piston in the master cylinder will be pushed out by its internal spring leaving it the the correct position for operation. When you tighten the nuts just leave a little free play at the pedal.

lynall · Jan 26, 2016

Just operate the lever from above using a large flat blade screwdriver, the slip your ring spanner over the nut and away you go, repeat until done.

Ps you dont set pedal height with the adjuster rod, thats only for setting free play, pedal height is set via the bolt the pedal sits against when at rest.

Unless something is massively out, high pedal means its on its way out.

huffhuff · Jan 26, 2016

Hmmmm, when the pedal is at rest, I have about a 3 inch gap from the adjuster BOLT coming through the bulkhead to the pedal...

zeaphod · Jan 26, 2016

As above, an el cheapo ring spanner with a slot cut out of it.

lynall · Jan 26, 2016

I reckon you are looking at the wrong bit as its a bolt and not a nut to set pedal height.
10mm spanner size from memory front face of the pedal box as fitted to the car.
Unless its been ****ted with its most likely fine.

Just noticed the switch is yours a td5 as maybe different?

huffhuff · Jan 26, 2016

lynall said:
I reckon you are looking at the wrong bit as its a bolt and not a nut to set pedal height.
10mm spanner size from memory front face of the pedal box as fitted to the car.
Unless its been ****ted with its most likely fine.

Sorry, typo, working on a document and i've been typing nut all day.

The bolt that sets the pedal height is fully screwed in to the front face, no thread left. However, it still sits a few inches away from the actual pedal on the other side...

Seems as thought it is the clutch form reading above... it's just weird as i've had no issue with it (other than high biting point) for months and months.

jimwyllie · Jan 26, 2016

No 2 on what Lynall says. Slacken locknuts off then use stud on pedal box to set pedal height. Tighten locknuts after setting height.

huffhuff · Jan 26, 2016

Will adjusting the pedal so it's closer to the floor change the biting point? Or am I a wally and not getting how it all works?!?

lynall · Jan 26, 2016

You have a very weird problem

Can you lift the pedal up after its at rest and get the pedal to touch the lock stop bolt?
Might be worth checking out if you have the right slave cylinder fitted? Im not sure if later models have a different version?

lynall · Jan 26, 2016

Just looking at your pic again and the pedal looks like its at rest correctly ie the lock nut is almost hard against the pedal box.

zeaphod · Jan 26, 2016

The biting point - amount the clutch pedal has to move before disengagement - shouldn't change. If you do as above, you're just moving the pedal, not the actuation rod in relation to the master cylinder.

huffhuff · Jan 26, 2016

lynall said:
You have a very weird problem
Can you lift the pedal up after its at rest and get the pedal to touch the lock stop bolt?
Might be worth checking out if you have the right slave cylinder fitted? Im not sure if later models have a different version?

Will go and give it a go.

zeaphod · Jan 26, 2016

If the bite point has changed, then something is up. Do you have any idea when the clutch was last changed?

huffhuff · Jan 27, 2016

zeaphod said:
If the bite point has changed, then something is up. Do you have any idea when the clutch was last changed?

Absolutely no idea. I've only had it a year, guy before a few years and I don't recall him saying it was changed.

Boooo.

Not really something I can do myself so will look for a garage

lightning · Jan 27, 2016

Looking at your picture, on my Defender TD5 there is no thread showing on the inside of the clutch rod, where you have all the thread showing.
On mine that would result in the clutch pedal being very high.
But adjusting that rod won't change where the biting point is. It will just lower the pedal, it should be a little lower than the brake pedal.
The bolt on the back of the pedal box adjusts how far down the pedal will go.
To adjust the rod, wedge the clutch pedal down with a piece of wood, which makes it easier to get to the outer nut. I found that with two small spanners it is possible.

Flossie · Jan 27, 2016

huffhuff said:
Absolutely no idea. I've only had it a year, guy before a few years and I don't recall him saying it was changed.

Boooo.

Not really something I can do myself so will look for a garage

Don't get all panicky just yet.
It's not uncommon for the last person who's fiddled with the pushrod adjustment to not have tightened the two nuts up properly. This will cause the free play to increase slowly over time as the nuts , through vibration or whatever, undo themselves.
Adjust as per the advice above and see how you get on.

huffhuff · Jan 27, 2016

Flossie said:
Don't get all panicky just yet.
It's not uncommon for the last person who's fiddled with the pushrod adjustment to not have tightened the two nuts up properly. This will cause the free play to increase slowly over time as the nuts , through vibration or whatever, undo themselves.
Adjust as per the advice above and see how you get on.

Righto, will do. I'll try the 'ram a screwdriver and wedge with wood' approach first, then start hacking at a spanner if that fails.

Ta

LeftFoot · Jan 27, 2016

A broom stick worked for me to keep the pedal down, then I used two 13mm spanners which I put on a grinder to give them a thinner profile to fit. Very straightforward job just requires a little patience. Adjust until bottom of pedal is approx 14mm from floor I believe.

Clutch pedal adjustment - am I missing something?

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