Clutch pedal adjustment - am I missing something?

I will also add that,on mine, I found releasing the bonnet prop (scissor type) and tying it right back made the access much easier.

I found an old 13mm spanner in the shed and ground it down. The main problem I had was that one of the nuts is not 13mm, annoying. However, I got around it with some jiggery-pokery. The pedal is now much lower to where it should be and feels good. But, the biting point is still high (as expected).

Booboo. New clutch time? I suppose it's a ticking time-bomb. What's a guesstimate on replacing?

Cheers all

Guess in time or money wise?
Diy at home if all goes well done in a day, garage much quicker but obviously expensive.

huffhuff said:

Hi all,

My clutch biting point has been within 2/3mm of the top of the pedal for a few months now. It doesn't seem to be getting worse and there is no slipping or issues changing gear etc.. So, I thought it might just need some adjustment (having read the book, measuring pedal to floor etc. about 10mm out).

I've taken the plate and gasket off the master cylinder, I know I need to loosen the push-rod nuts, but have no tool that will fit in there, spanners too big. How are other people doing it? Am I missing something completely? I can't even get long-nose pliers in there to get purchase!

View attachment 95719

Thanks in advance....

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I had someone push the clutch down, gripped the shaft with pliers and used a small ratchet to remove the nyloc nut, I then held the shaft in place while the clutch was released, I then took the shaft out and set it up out the vehicle. The inner nut was then easy to move so I could tweak it on the vehicle with my fingers and used the nyloc to nip it all up tight. Make sure at rest the rod can always fully return with some slack. As it wears it will go the opposite way but it's important that the release bearing doesn't end up under compression, even slightly, all the time.

Something to always remember when working out clutch dynamics: As the clutch plate wears the clutch cover drive face moves inwards, this pushes the diaphragm spring fingers out which in turn pushes the release bearing back, which pivots the fork, which means the rod goes IN the way, so as the clutch wears it takes less travel before the clutch starts to disengage, but this is slightly allowed for in the hydraulic system, so it self adjusts to an extent. However if your bite point is high to start with, and the clutch wears, then the rod moves in, pushes the slave cylinder piston, which forces the master back which if it is tight against the pedal can get to the point the system is bottomed out and the bearing is held onto the cover all the time.

You may want to consider shimming the slave out or looking to see if there is a proper gasket. That helps to move the slave back further which INCREASES the travel required to actuate the fork, which therefore, moves the bite point to slightly further down the pedal.

Don't panic just yet, you've got a different late style of pedal box which not many people know about. I only know about it because I've gone through the same head scratching process this weekend. The bolt your talking about is NOT a pedal height bolt, but rather a stroke limiting screw.

The difference is, your stop bolt is mounted on the bottom edge of the pedal box, whereas the traditional height setting screw is mounted about half way up, and your bolt is ONLY effective on the pedals maximum lower limit (controls how far from the bulkhead the pedal stops when depressed).

Now then, it seems there is very limited information out there on the correct procedure for setting up this pedal, so the only advice I can give, and this is based upon my experience as a time served mechanic, is to set the overall pedal height using the nyloc nut (furthest from the bulkhead) and then just nip up the other 2 lock nuts against the pedal Trunion. There will be sufficient free play in the master cylinder pushrod, and the nature of this pedal design means it will always pull the pushrod away from the master cylinders internal piston to achieve this.

If your bite point is still to high following the pedal setup, then yes, clutch could be stuffed. There also should be a shim fitted between the slave cylinder and bell housing which land rover call a "backing plate" part number FRC2402, which helps to make sure there isn't any hydraulic pressure acting on the clutch fork during use.

300tditoy said:

Don't panic just yet, you've got a different late style of pedal box which not many people know about. I only know about it because I've gone through the same head scratching process this weekend. The bolt your talking about is NOT a pedal height bolt, but rather a stroke limiting screw.

The difference is, your stop bolt is mounted on the bottom edge of the pedal box, whereas the traditional height setting screw is mounted about half way up, and your bolt is ONLY effective on the pedals maximum lower limit (controls how far from the bulkhead the pedal stops when depressed).

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He is talking about the nuts on the push rod. He wants to adjust his bite point, I don't think he was trying to get into the stroke limit screw, which really ought never to be touched unless some fairly badly mismatched parts were fitted.

In all honesty I think he needs to fit the gasket to the slave so it's sitting at the correct distance from the fork.

Agreed. Gasket does make a difference. You won't ever actually alter the bite point of the clutch, you'll just increase or decrease the amount of free play at the pedal. Slave cylinder shim is the way to go first off, or failing that, cut a slot in two M6 washers and fit them up between slave and bell housing to make sure pressure plate is fully relaxed. That will eliminate a worn drive plate.

300tditoy said:

Agreed. Gasket does make a difference. You won't ever actually alter the bite point of the clutch, you'll just increase or decrease the amount of free play at the pedal. Slave cylinder shim is the way to go first off, or failing that, cut a slot in two M6 washers and fit them up between slave and bell housing to make sure pressure plate is fully relaxed. That will eliminate a worn drive plate.

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Yes good plan. If the two washers trick works, then do a permanent fix shimmed out a little with 1 or two gaskets, I would just want to minimise water ingress from spray or if wading albeit it will pour in the bottom of the bellhousing if the wading plug isn't fitted.

I actually went through exactly the same issues as the OP did, I have 2 of the metal shim/gaskets in my tool chest. I fitted one and found that to be enough to ensure there was not a constant pressure on the release bearing/cover etc. I seem to remember it had a dramatic effect on the clutch pedal position in relation to the "bite point".

You are absolutely right, I should have said the bite point "in relation" to the clutch "pedal"!

I'll give the washer trick a go If that works, where can I get a proper shim?

Ta

If you google the part number I gave above FRC2402, it should show up some suppliers, but be aware, it's only about 1.5-2mm in thickness so you could need a few. If so, I'd be looking at whether you have the correct pushrod in there (could be too long).

Ironically, I'm having the same trouble with mine at the moment, there's 2 washers going up there when I get a minute. I think my pushrod is actually too long because mine used to be a 200/lt77, and there's a chance I've refitted the wrong one. I hope that's what it is anyway because my clutch, like yours, is only 12 month old, and it's never been abused in the slightest.

huffhuff said:

I'll give the washer trick a go If that works, where can I get a proper shim?

Ta

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I don't have Microcat where I am just now so I cannot get your a code but you can get thicker ones. The ones I have are metal, probably about 3mm.