Freelander 1 Clutch low bite point again

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dog-man said:
I am no mechanic but can follow instructions and do what I can to avoid garage bills.
I have been under my TD4 2006 today looking for this push rod to look at trimming the plastic shroud but I can't even find it.

Can someone please direct an idiot to where it can be found. I have looked from underneath and down from above. It's pouring with rain so that may have made me curtail my search sooner than I should have. :)

TD4 2006.
Click to expand...
It is on the master cylinder where it attaches to the clutch pedal. If you look at the photo's posted by Freelandy you'll see where he trimmed his.
 
Ok, found it now. I was looking under engine bsy. It is inside the cab.

Right then, how the hell can it be trimmed in situ as space is very limited?
I think I need to learn how to he a contortionist. :D
 
dog-man said:
Ok, found it now. I was looking under engine bsy. It is inside the cab.

Right then, how the hell can it be trimmed in situ as space is very limited?
I think I need to learn how to he a contortionist. :D
Click to expand...

Much easier to take it out and do it on the bench. Best of luck.
 
dog-man said:
Ok, found it now. I was looking under engine bsy. It is inside the cab.

Right then, how the hell can it be trimmed in situ as space is very limited?
I think I need to learn how to he a contortionist. :D
Click to expand...

Hi dog-man
If you disconnect the push rod from the peddle (push sideways towards the centre console),Then go to the engine bay and get hold of the master cylinder give it a 1/4 turn this will disconnect it from the bulk head, then u can trim it with a junior hack saw on top of the engine
be careful to keep the master up right or u will lose your clutch fluid.
The rod will turn so you can cut all the way round it then refit in the reverse order.
 
Which way do you do the 1/4 turn? I am heavy handed and have a long history of breaking things with too much force. :(
If the push rod can bedisconnected by pushing it to the centre console, I assume doing the opposite resits it in place?

Waiting for a day off work when it is dry to do this.
I will probably use a dremmel tool to cut the shroud.
 
dog-man said:
Which way do you do the 1/4 turn? I am heavy handed and have a long history of breaking things with too much force. :(
If the push rod can bedisconnected by pushing it to the centre console, I assume doing the opposite resits it in place?

Waiting for a day off work when it is dry to do this.
I will probably use a dremmel tool to cut the shroud.
Click to expand...

I think its anti clock wise from memory I sure you can only turn it one way and pull towards you
refitting is opposite push in slightly turned then turn straight to lock it back in.
and yes the rod just hooks on a little peg sticking out from clutch peddle mine came off so easy not sure how it stays on.
the hole job takes 15 mins tops
 
I have now done the mod and trimmed some of the plastic cowl.

Sadly, it hasn't made any difference for me.
I now have to decide, do I spend around £1300 for a new cluch or do I get rid and get a newer car.

I am leaning toward paying for a new clutch as I could retire any time during the next five years and don't want to be tied to a credit agreement which may delay my retirement.
When I do retire, the FL will go as we won't need two cars. My wife can only drive an automatic which her car is so that will be the one we keep.
 
£1300 :eek:
I think the first thing you need to do is find a garage that charges a reasonable amount for a simple clutch change. £1300 is ridiculous.
And one that will confirm if the clutch or the master is the issue before starting.
 
I have far too many aches and pains to do something as big as this job. If I didn't need it for work, I would probably have a go despite the aches and pains.

The price quoted is the worst scenario should it also need a mass flywheel and a couple of other things I can't recall.

It's cheaper than buying a new car which I was seriously considering but due to failing health I could take early retirement any time between now and 5 years if I last that long. :D
 
Even with replacing the flywheel, the bill should be around £800 all in. £1300 is £500 to much imo.
 
Hmmmm, I have always suspected my local garage as being dishonest but never had any hard evidence.

I have heard lots of people sing their praises though.

When I booked it in, the chief mechanic and foreman said off the top of his head, he thinks it's around an 11 hour job.
 
Sorry to hear of your trouble. Before you part with your hard earned or bust a gut - I simply manually operated the push rod and bled the system (see other threads for how to do this). I then extended the push rod by about 4mm which gave me a sensible bite point. Been fine ever since !
 
The system has already been bled and investigated for any faults by the garage. I wanted time to consider my options before spending so much money on it so have been using it.
The conclusion was that it needed a new clutch kit as there was no obvious fault and no air in the system despite the symptoms of being hard to engage gears with the occasional crunch when doing so.

Trimming the plastic cowl on the push rod made no difference.
 
OK - you're call. Mine was diagnosed as the same and needing a new clutch and DMF. I calculated the amount of fluid displaced by the standard master cylinder and realised that the amount of fluid that could be transferred to the master cylinder needed to be (and could easily be) increased to gain a higher bite point. There were no 'faults' with mine - a design issue with a worn clutch I think and one that has fixed mine for many thousands of miles and made it much easier to drive !
 
So, what exactly is needed to be done?
Although I am racked with pain in my back, I have some time as it doesn't go into the garage until the 28th.
If the job is easy enough, I might be able to manage it.
 
dog-man said:
Hmmmm, I have always suspected my local garage as being dishonest but never had any hard evidence.

I have heard lots of people sing their praises though.

When I booked it in, the chief mechanic and foreman said off the top of his head, he thinks it's around an 11 hour job.
Click to expand...

LR book time is 5 1/2 Hrs iirc. However 6 1/2 Hrs is a more realistic time.
Flywheel is about £400 and the clutch kit is about £80 for a LUK kit.
 
There is a write up on another one of my threads, but simply put - cut the push rod, find a tube that close fits over the push rod, insert a 4mm filler (nut or spacer) and slide tube over. Drill through sleeve and push rod at each end (i.e. across the diameter) and insert a tight fitting pin (thin nail). File flat - job done.Hope it works for you - not a difficult job with master on the bench. I bought ally tube from B & Q with an internal diameter to match push rod. About 6mm I think.
 
andyfreelandy said:
There is a write up on another one of my threads, but simply put - cut the push rod, find a tube that close fits over the push rod, insert a 4mm filler (nut or spacer) and slide tube over. Drill through sleeve and push rod at each end (i.e. across the diameter) and insert a tight fitting pin (thin nail). File flat - job done.Hope it works for you - not a difficult job with master on the bench. I bought ally tube from B & Q with an internal diameter to match push rod. About 6mm I think.
Click to expand...


I assume you are referring to the push rod where I cut the plastic cowl?
 
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