Cheesed off :( in need of help please guys sorry....

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sassanachcheers for that your a true gent and a scholar mate, and thanks for the super quick send out epic i agree and if in return i can help you in the future all you have to do is ask mate ok...

Pete the biker ive got the O rings and not going to use it till they are done even if it does run after the fuse box test etc...

Chrisfrane2007Chris im a wierd type of guy i have fits and starts it winds me up when i cant fix something cos its a specailist field then i throw my dummer out but 99 times out of a 100 i return to pick it up and look at things logical and in the end i normally succeed and sort it with help from here and others etc and yeah it always costs but cutting my losses and binning it would cost alot more i think...we will see...
 
Fusebox just arrived so going to try it on just now fingers crossed it works i will be back on to update soon as i can just having a quick prey to the big fella that it sorts it then im off to fit it... just looking for me prey mat... Rob
 
Updated chaps its still the ****ing same no fix sick as a bastard chip now like.....

i think its time has come to be fair now....
 
The V8's are notorious for losing the sync code in the blink of an eye - I know Doug reset the EMS/BeCM code - but could disconnectiong the battery to fit the new Fusebox have resulted in a loss of sync again??

Usualy suspects for lack of start are:

Dodgy Crank and/or Cam sensor
Duff Coil Packs
Duff ECU

ECU - Tells Coils to fire and the injectors to inject....
Crank/Cam sensor - Tells ECU when to inject and fire coil

I assume the fuel pump is working??? can you hear it humming away in the tank - usual trick is to open the filler cap and put your ear to it...or clamber underneath with a screwdriver to the tank and the handle to your ear....

There could be a schreider valve on the fuel rail, that you can press in to let the fuel pressure out (caution and use a rag to prevent overspray)....

No fuel pump, no fuel pressure, no start.....

Another check would be to remove a plug quickly after trying to start and see if you can smell fuel on it....

Plus the USING INSULATED PLIERS hols the plug while connected via the HT lead, and earth the metal Hex part to the engine and see if it sparks.....
 
neo2 said:
Major issues now and im totally sickend off big time

Anyone want to buy it ???

ok ive cocked up big time now gutted ....

After checking the voltage and charging i took the fuse box out and stripped it down to investigate inside took some pictures so will upload soon, all seems pritty clean and corrosion free from in there to me, so i reassembled it and tried again, STILL IDENTICLE FAULTS, then i went to try and disconnect the alarm siren which i did and was still the same, BUT when i went to reconnect the siren i moved the fuse box a touch, as it wasnt bolted down and the thick brown/green wire touched the body and make a small spark as the battery was connected (school boy error) and after ive plugged everything back in its gone from bad to worse....

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IT NOW WONT START BUT TURNS OVER IE CRANKS BUT NO FIRE...

HAZZARDS STILL FLASHING BUT ONLY ONE HEADLIGHT ON NOW DRIVERS ONE

AND THE DIGITAL DASH DISPLAY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CLOCKS ISNT COMING UP WITH ANYTHING IE MILES ERROR OR NOTHING ???

IM IN A WORLD OF PAIN RIGHT NOW CARS BEECHED ON DRIVE WONT START CANT MOVE IT CANT FIX IT DONT KNOW WHERE TO CHECK NEXT

Any ideas guys i think ive blown something dont know what but im cheesed off

WHAT ARE THESE WORTH SCRAP ???
Click to expand...
Right going over everything again you say you know what wire shorted in this post is it possible to check what cluster this so called wire operates in the fuse box if so continuity checks must be done although your fuse blew you could of burnt a wire out before the fuse let go is as far as I have got so far so posting this
 
Looking at you photo's of the fuse box and connectors, there is at least one pin with signs of heating, it's the blue one with the red surround. could be a bad connection there.
 
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