Hi guys just a quick re run of what has happened from the start ….
Bought the car drove home 200 miles no issues at all no error on dash nothing, then spent 4 days doing bits and bobs no faults still no issues..
I drove 10 miles to my mates and on the way I touched nothing then the horns starting blasting ie the car horns not alarm and headlights went to high beam and hazard warning lights started flashing, I quickly pulled over and knocked the ignition off all was ok,, I turned ignition back on all horns lights the lot again, I took the indicator bulbs out and disconnected the horns and drove home, rangie drove fine at this point…
I posted on here my problem and awaited for advice….
ADVICE 1,,, check fuse box for corrosion so I disconnected the battery took it off and opened it up, looked like new so I put it together refitted it and reconnected the battery, turned ignition on and same problem lights, horns the lot blasting away tried to start it and it started fine, so fuse box had no problem there….
ADVICE 2,,,, check alarm siren unplug it might be that so I stuck me hand in and unlugged it turned ignition on and same fault light,horns and hazards tried starting it and again fired up no problem whoo hoo so far so good or not lol….
CRITICAL INFORMATION FOLLOWS
When I tried to reconnect the alarm siren I couldn’t get my hand in so I un did the three 10mm bolts to move the fuse box half an inch to get access as I stuck my hand in and plugged alarm siren in I got a blast of sparks from under the fuse box “ what the ****” **** my pants etc, and realised I had left the battery on, so I undid the lead and investigated what I had done..
On the the underside of the fuse box there was three x 10mm nuts with large guage cable the brown and green wire stud had touched the fusebox mounting bracket and shorted to earth I could see the burn mark on the stud, this wire goes to the EBCM as do the other two straight to the side of it I think…
Ok so I resecured the fusebox I could not see any melted wires or smell any burning etc, I also checked the fuses and found I had blown the MAXI FUSE 2 50a one,
I replaced that and checked the rest all ok,, reconnected battery and then went into car to check all was ok now here things had changed….
All the same faults were evident ie the lights/hazards and horns but the display had gone off on dash too since I shorted the wire out, the LCD display I mean, so I went to try and start it, engine cranked over but no firing up now between it running before the alarm siren episode and not running is only 5 to 10 minuites maximum so I know the shorting of the wire or stud has killed the engine from running…
Ok so next in comes the great man Doug comes up and investigates takes my EBCM away and finds out its totally goosed gets me a second hand one and tests it before he returns to fit it so he knows it’s a good one, he fits it and syncs it in etc along with a new £144 key I had bought and expected it to start as I did,,,
Now the EBCM has fixed the lights,hazards, and horns and the dash LCD display also has returned so the original fault has now been fixed ALL ELECTRICS ARE WORKING AS THE SHOULD NOW…..
But it still wont fire up but cranks over…Doug advised I might of blown a circuit inside the fusebox with the short as the three large wires have a good power and continuity from the fuse box to the EBCM he also says all seems to be fine with the EBCM and its data…
So after an updated post a great member SASASNAK sends me his full fusebox inc all fuses and relays from his working car to test before I buy one, I fit it and reconnect battery and all is still the same. ELECTRICS ALL OK but still cranking over but no firing up…..so I refit my old fuse box and send his back, sasasnak confirms he has refitted his fusebox he lent me and his fired straight up no issues…
Doug then advises it might be the Engine ECU been spiked etc, I then ordered a good used part from North west range rover spares for £150 and Doug returns to code and sync it with the EBCM which he does…He trys to start the rangie and again all is fine, cranks over but no fire….
We tested for a spark the old plug lead in a lead and earthed to engine trick and nothing no spark at all…
AS IT STANDS NOW….
When cranking over there is no spark at all…
Sunroof saying not closed when it is ??
Windows not set errors x 4
Gearbox Fault ?? wasn’t there when it was running don’t know why its come up now ethier….
Ive bought 2 x new coil packs today to try and also a new crankshaft position sensor again brand new but im not convinced its ether of them to be fair….
Ive done the tests SAINTV8 asked but it don’t mean a lot to me as im just doing as he asks don’t understand what it means to be fair…
And I think that’s about it. I can get the fuel pump to run by bridging terminal 30 with 87 in the fuse box with relay out and but it runs constent, but even if its bridged it wont fire when cranked….
Im in **** street now to be fair I need help and want it fixed
Tonights tests...
When I turn the ignition on to lights on dash the relays I can here coming in are
RL15
RL 2
RL 19
They are definitely clicking inside as the ignition comes on
Test 2
I have battery voltage tested as you said at both coil packs on the white wire ie the middle of the three in both three pin connectors
Test 3
Relay RL 2 has 12v battery power at terminal 30 constant even with keys out
Relay RL 15 only has I'm not sure if its 0.8v or 8v these meters are **** lol
I've a picture I will upload soon to show meter reading saint
Crank sensor and coil packs arrived but not fitted as yet
other tests or information that might help....
FUEL PUMP RELAY.....
Term 30 on fusebox side has 12v perm live feed
Term 86 has 12v live at ignition on point
Bridging term 30 to 87 kicks the fuel pump in constent but when cranked with pump running it still dont fire up...
Thanks very much for even reading this it means a lot to you all….Rob
