Disco 1 chassis repair advice! and 1 other thing!!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
C

ceffyn

Active Member
Posts
418
Location
Aberdare - South Wales
ok so was under the disco just having a look for problems as you do when you've just finished fixing something on your disco and i came across a little rust. (well sort of a little lol)

driver3.jpg driver2.jpg passenger2.jpg driver4.jpg driver1.jpg passenger1.jpg passenger3.jpg passenger4.jpg

my main concern is the hole behind the rear passenger spring. but the other parts don't look too great.
whats the best way to repair these area's and should i consider finding a specialist to do the work!


now for that other thing lol

that's my passenger door lock clicking like crazy but its all working! tried to move it about up/down/left/right but nothing stays the same. would you say change it now or wait for it to die its not giving me any trouble as it is other than that noise.

thanks in advance as always guys and gals
 
ceffyn said:
ok so was under the disco just having a look for problems as you do when you've just finished fixing something on your disco and i came across a little rust. (well sort of a little lol)

View attachment 124150 View attachment 124148 View attachment 124151 View attachment 124149 View attachment 124147 View attachment 124152 View attachment 124153 View attachment 124154

my main concern is the hole behind the rear passenger spring. but the other parts don't look too great.
whats the best way to repair these area's and should i consider finding a specialist to do the work!


now for that other thing lol

that's my passenger door lock clicking like crazy but its all working! tried to move it about up/down/left/right but nothing stays the same. would you say change it now or wait for it to die its not giving me any trouble as it is other than that noise.

thanks in advance as always guys and gals
Click to expand...

that looks like it needs more than the rear chassis repair piece ,personally id fit a good used chassis
 
:eek: DON'T say that James POOR BUG*er will TOP HIMSELF !:eek::eek:
But I know wot your saying BUT I have seen worse ! It is fixable but it will cost !:rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
I don't weld these days no welder but i know a guy who does lol. question is can it be plated or has it gotta be done in some special way to keep the mot guys happy. also if you think a top notch welder is needed anyone know for a "guy" in wales who don't charge silly money.

as for changing the chassis would that be a pain in the ass with insurance company's and dvla!
 
Hey up Ceffyn Yes it can be welded BUT it's got to be done PROPERLY & not BODGED ! The prep work is going to take the longest part of a day :rolleyes:
 
Magicgrotto said:
IT will take you 3hrs 43mins LOL
Click to expand...
it will take me bout 4hrs 30mins at least mrs and kids dont make travel speeds any better lol. as for the tent its got a room for me and the mrs and separate one for the kids and room in the middle for the cooker and heater pmsl. so big enough and i spend a lot of time in it at work so nothing new for us to be living in a tent for a few days haha. also the mrs is from scunthrope so guess we could go see them when we get done hahaha
 
Sorry Ceffyn, but I agree with JM - a good used chassis is the way forward with that - it looks kaput to me. I seriously doubt it would get a MOT at our local MOT place :(

A galv is of course the ultimate cure for tin worms, but you knew that ;)
 
If you have an air compressor then invest in a descaler - an attachment to an air chisel. It has 19 vibrating steel rods and will remove all the underseal, rust and scale and you will quickly see what the real problem is. It will also help a welder determine how much work is really needed.
IMG_0356 (2).jpg
IMG_0359 (2).jpg IMG_0373.jpg
 
SteveClv said:
If you have an air compressor then invest in a descaler - an attachment to an air chisel. It has 19 vibrating steel rods and will remove all the underseal, rust and scale and you will quickly see what the real problem is. It will also help a welder determine how much work is really needed.
View attachment 124209
View attachment 124207 View attachment 124208
Click to expand...
sounds like a plan but right now i have no compressor nor the money for a descaler :( but me being me i wont give up on it until its sorted or fully dead lol
 
UPDATE PICS,
bodywork mount from front.jpg bodywork mount from rear.jpg bodywork mount from below.jpg end of crossmember behind fuel tank.jpg next too exhaust bracket.jpg passenger side.jpg behind passenger spring 1.jpg behind passenger spring 2.jpg behind passenger spring.jpg

ok so went over the chassis today using my favorite tool (yes it was a hammer). knocked hell out of it from as many angles as i could front to back all the badness is on the rear passenger side. the section behind my spring is about 2" tall and runs from the spring mount left to right however it seems to be solid on top, bottom and the rear section its just the gap between them. as for the mount well you can see lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Disco 1 Disco 1 Rust repair prep
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
sv_dOnut
S
V
Repair Kit for Discovery 4 2010 Air Compressor - AMK type
Replies
10
Views
880
gstuart
gstuart
B
Discovery Sport Timing Chain Repair
Replies
5
Views
2K
Bp112
B
M
Disco 3 (LR3) Discovery 3 sagging overnight
Replies
0
Views
301
Matt BB
M
D
Disco sport p300e hybrid battery issue
Replies
1
Views
713
Scottydog1
S
Back
Top